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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
Black connector = rear cylinder
White connector = front cylinder
My '07 with 18mm sensors look the same except one wire color is different. Do the newer 12mm sensors have some functional difference that makes them non-interchangeable? I'm just curious, as this is the first I've heard of this.
On a side topic, the wires of one of my sensors have been cut. Should I decide to start using the stock sensors again, would there be any reason why I couldn't splice them back together? I seem to recall a thread somewhere that suggested that Bosch recommended against any splicing, like trying to adapt sensors from one vehicle to another with different connectors. I did this once years ago on my car, opting for a $40 Ford sensor instead of an identical $185 item from my friendly Saab dealer--identical that is except for the connector. I had no problems with this hack.
You're welcome, glad I could help otu and your bike is now fixed.
Originally Posted by TedMan
Could any long-term engine damage occur as a result of the switched o2 sensors?
Probably not, unless the lean cylinder was detonating severely when you were on your tuning runs. Whe these engines are being mapped on a dyno they take way more abuse than most of us could ever dish out, and routinely run well outside of what we'd all consider a "safe" tune. A day or two with one cylinder on the lean side shouldn't have hurt it.
iclick- I don't know for certain. I do know the 2010-up touring bikes with mini-O2's have a different offset voltage, the switch point is near 950 mv or so compared to the 450 on the 2009-earlier bikes. I don't know if the differences are just in the ECU, or the sensor itself.
My '07 with 18mm sensors look the same except one wire color is different. Do the newer 12mm sensors have some functional difference that makes them non-interchangeable? I'm just curious, as this is the first I've heard of this.
I think they are color coded to make sure they plug into the correct pins at the ecm.
My '07 with 18mm sensors look the same except one wire color is different. Do the newer 12mm sensors have some functional difference that makes them non-interchangeable? I'm just curious, as this is the first I've heard of this.
On a side topic, the wires of one of my sensors have been cut. Should I decide to start using the stock sensors again, would there be any reason why I couldn't splice them back together? I seem to recall a thread somewhere that suggested that Bosch recommended against any splicing, like trying to adapt sensors from one vehicle to another with different connectors. I did this once years ago on my car, opting for a $40 Ford sensor instead of an identical $185 item from my friendly Saab dealer--identical that is except for the connector. I had no problems with this hack.
They aren't functionally different but are marked so you connect the front and rear cylinders correctly. If the tuning device is getting info from the "wrong" cylinder it will increasingly move the tune away from the target. Let's say that in a certain cell the tune is saying front VE should be richer for the front and a little leaner on the rear. If the sensors are connected incorrectly you really should be making the rear richer and the front leaner. However if you apply the tune, it would apply to the front VE in the map and make the front even richer. Now the tune will report the front should be alot leaner and the rear should be alot richer. You would make adjustments and make them even further away.
I have seen other instances where the front and rear senors were reversed and the tune would progressively get worse until the bike was unrideable.
I have also seen Bosch say that you should not repair connector wires but like you I have also seen where folks changed connectors or repaired them and they worked. Since these sensors are measuring voltage I am sure a repair or connection "could" influence that measurement. just an observation.
They aren't functionally different but are marked so you connect the front and rear cylinders correctly. If the tuning device is getting info from the "wrong" cylinder it will increasingly move the tune away from the target. Let's say that in a certain cell the tune is saying front VE should be richer for the front and a little leaner on the rear. If the sensors are connected incorrectly you really should be making the rear richer and the front leaner. However if you apply the tune, it would apply to the front VE in the map and make the front even richer. Now the tune will report the front should be alot leaner and the rear should be alot richer. You would make adjustments and make them even further away.
I have seen other instances where the front and rear senors were reversed and the tune would progressively get worse until the bike was unrideable.
I have also seen Bosch say that you should not repair connector wires but like you I have also seen where folks changed connectors or repaired them and they worked. Since these sensors are measuring voltage I am sure a repair or connection "could" influence that measurement. just an observation.
Okay, all that makes sense, especially given the new bikes with 12mm sensors have them positioned very close together on the head pipe. I had forgotten they were only inches apart. Mine are >2' apart and you couldn't possibly get them swapped, as the cables aren't long enough.
I'd like to hear from AT-100 Pro users on their experiences with the LT (log tuner, aka PV Tune). Is everyone seeing progress with each subsequent datalog run and getting an accurate tune with it? One of the issues I was having was that I would get no WB2 hits >100 KPA, which meant no hits at WOT since I'm at 25' ASL and I see as high as 102 KPA at WOT. The newest LT v1.0.13 has this problem licked, in case anyone else has had trouble with this.
I'd like to hear from AT-100 Pro users on their experiences with the LT (log tuner, aka PV Tune). Is everyone seeing progress with each subsequent datalog run and getting an accurate tune with it? One of the issues I was having was that I would get no WB2 hits >100 KPA, which meant no hits at WOT since I'm at 25' ASL and I see as high as 102 KPA at WOT. The newest LT v1.0.13 has this problem licked, in case anyone else has had trouble with this.
I am using the AT-100 Pro and I can't use the latest version of log tuner (v1.0.13). I get the message that there is no set lambda info but it is there in Excel and I went back to v1.0.11 and all is ok. Weird.
I finally decided to set all a/f at 13/1 and just use the WB sensors to tune with as I was jumping back and forth in VE changes at 2200 to 3000 rpm and 40 to 60 mpa. I want to get the area where I cruise the most tuned 1st along with the idle and worry about wide open when I can get on a dyno.
I am using the AT-100 Pro and I can't use the latest version of log tuner (v1.0.13). I get the message that there is no set lambda info but it is there in Excel and I went back to v1.0.11 and all is ok. Weird.
Make sure you are using the latest firmware and the newest Log Tuner and most importantly you cannot mix logs between versions as they have changed some of the definitions that LT looks for in the logs.
My '07 with 18mm sensors look the same except one wire color is different. Do the newer 12mm sensors have some functional difference that makes them non-interchangeable? I'm just curious, as this is the first I've heard of this.
On a side topic, the wires of one of my sensors have been cut. Should I decide to start using the stock sensors again, would there be any reason why I couldn't splice them back together? I seem to recall a thread somewhere that suggested that Bosch recommended against any splicing, like trying to adapt sensors from one vehicle to another with different connectors. I did this once years ago on my car, opting for a $40 Ford sensor instead of an identical $185 item from my friendly Saab dealer--identical that is except for the connector. I had no problems with this hack.
The newer 12mm sensors have a heated element in them and also work within a different voltage range.
On your O2 sensor you can splice the wires however you cannot solder them
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