Power Vision Information Thread
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,900
Likes: 12
Just let it sit until you don't hear the hiss from the air cleaner, and touch the rear rocker box to verify it is warm. Not necessarily scalding. Just warm. Lets me know th oil is thinned out, and she is ready to go.
Hot days take less time than cool days.
Hot days take less time than cool days.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,454
Likes: 58
From: Graysville, AL
Cool, ill give it a try. Also, gonna raise my idle to 1000rpm. Im leaving for Thunder Beach this wednesday and there is always plenty of idling in traffic. Hopefully the 1000rpm idle will smooth the vibs out a little.
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
One thing I have noticed with my bike, and I use the SEPST, but that is irrelevant is that if you start up and ride off without the bike finishing checks, and the bike still pulling in air (you can hear it, and hear is stop) it runs really ruff for the entire time you ride until you shut it off. A lot of folks say with EFI you can just start and go. Well I still let the bike finish its start up checks, and then if possible I wait until the heads (rocker boxes) get a little warm to touch before I ride off. I find that this gives me a smooth ride, and also helps with fuel mileage. I have did the start and go, and the bike just doesn't really like to roll that way. It likes to be at running temp before you head down the road.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 217
From: Puyallup Wa.
I have set idle to 975 to me the bike feels better and is much better at rolling speeds in parking lot. It felt to me like the idle at 1k was pushing the bike along when rolling really slow I did not like that.
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,237
Likes: 61
From: Albany, OR
You apparently have reversion going on at 0%, as those values are too high. I would put them back to their original numbers and avoid tuning that area.
I also have had trouble with that exact region, but mine tunes progressively leaner. I ended up using -10 from stock values since AFR was originally set at 12.5:1, which is too rich IMO, and it runs fine there. My tune is about as good as it's going to get by now and when I run datalogs I just move the old VE's for that area of the 0% column to the new VE table, thereby making no changes there. Actually, what I've been doing lately is just selectively tweaking a few areas of the tune by manually changing VE values in WinPV using the New VE values in PV Tune.
When tuning you need to watch what's going on, as sometimes these anomalies occur. In my case I was getting slow leaning in that area of 0%, slow enough where I didn't notice it. I was getting popping which I attributed to Decel Engleanment, which I unsuccessfully kept trying to tweak, until I noticed that one or two cells at 0% were abnormally low compared to those surrounding it. After making those changes I no longer have a decel-popping problem.
I also have had trouble with that exact region, but mine tunes progressively leaner. I ended up using -10 from stock values since AFR was originally set at 12.5:1, which is too rich IMO, and it runs fine there. My tune is about as good as it's going to get by now and when I run datalogs I just move the old VE's for that area of the 0% column to the new VE table, thereby making no changes there. Actually, what I've been doing lately is just selectively tweaking a few areas of the tune by manually changing VE values in WinPV using the New VE values in PV Tune.
When tuning you need to watch what's going on, as sometimes these anomalies occur. In my case I was getting slow leaning in that area of 0%, slow enough where I didn't notice it. I was getting popping which I attributed to Decel Engleanment, which I unsuccessfully kept trying to tweak, until I noticed that one or two cells at 0% were abnormally low compared to those surrounding it. After making those changes I no longer have a decel-popping problem.
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
From: Berkeley, CA
I wanted a temporary mount for my phone GPS so I could calibrate my speedo after sprocket/gearing changes. I bought this spider thingy for 12 bucks on Amazon...it holds phones and stuff;
http://www.amazon.com/Breffo-Spiderp...5928146&sr=8-1
I used cable ties to secure it to the steering head. This was a very temporary RubeGoldberg solution. Since then, I've found that I really like the gauges on my PowerVision, and these flexible "legs" allow easy on/off when I want to remove my tuner.
http://www.amazon.com/Breffo-Spiderp...5928146&sr=8-1
I used cable ties to secure it to the steering head. This was a very temporary RubeGoldberg solution. Since then, I've found that I really like the gauges on my PowerVision, and these flexible "legs" allow easy on/off when I want to remove my tuner.
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
You mean using a long warm-up interval to allow OP to rise to a safe level? OP should jump to normal almost instantaneously after starting, even when cold. Are you seeing a delay? If so, how long?
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
The minimum to maintain safe oil pressure is supposedly 900, and some ECM calibrations won't even allow you to set it lower. I've had mine set to 850 briefly as a test, but I settled on 950 as a smooth idle RPM. It was set to 967 stock. All these values are for a fully-warmed engine, as the ECM uses transitional idle RPM values as the bike warms up. These are adjustable with any flash-based tuner (PV, SEPST, & TTS).