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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
What is a good option for mounting on an Ultra Classic? I'm leaning toward a Ram mount so I can pull it off easily during normal trips, say to work and back, or switch to a nylock if I'm taking a trip and want to lock it on more securely. The Leader mount looks easy to take on and off, or lock down with the set screw, but the lack of adjustment may be an issue. The Techmount looks secure and stable, but how hard is it to take the stem off when I'd want to? Sorry for the open question, but I just got the PV in and am looking at the options.
Also, what do you do if you're riding and it starts to rain (which isn't a huge issue in S TX)? Pull it off quickly of put a baggie over it where my first two thoughts.
The Leader mount does have some minor adjustability as to how the postion is when it slides into the mount. I have no problem seeing the screen.....They also sell an adjustable extension that mounts in between the mount and the unit. With that you can put it at any angle you want.
What is a good option for mounting on an Ultra Classic? I'm leaning toward a Ram mount so I can pull it off easily during normal trips, say to work and back, or switch to a nylock if I'm taking a trip and want to lock it on more securely.
I use a Ram mount but never remove the unit from the bike. Dynojet makes two kits that allow a quick-release from any mount with your choice of a black or chrome sun visor. If you get one avoid the chrome version. It's chrome-plated plastic and doesn't look like any chrome on the bike (very cheap), so I ended up painting mine black. Just buy the black one.
The Techmount looks secure and stable, but how hard is it to take the stem off when I'd want to?
I started with the Techmount but am using a Ram instead for two reasons. It matches the mount for my Zumo on the other side and it has more adjustability. Once installed, with its dual-ball arrangement you can adjust it to most any position without tools.
Also, what do you do if you're riding and it starts to rain (which isn't a huge issue in S TX)? Pull it off quickly of put a baggie over it where my first two thoughts.
As for rain, the PV is water-resistant but as a precaution I carry a Ziploc bag in case it rains. I'm more worried about the sealing of the connection than anything else, as with the AT-100 connected I've never been able to get a good fit on the rubber insulator. When I wash the bike I never put water on any portion of the inner fairing or around the GPS or PV. I instead use a paint brush to remove dust from that area and use a wet microfiber rag when needed.
What is a good option for mounting on an Ultra Classic? I'm leaning toward a Ram mount so I can pull it off easily during normal trips, say to work and back, or switch to a nylock if I'm taking a trip and want to lock it on more securely. The Leader mount looks easy to take on and off, or lock down with the set screw, but the lack of adjustment may be an issue. The Techmount looks secure and stable, but how hard is it to take the stem off when I'd want to? Sorry for the open question, but I just got the PV in and am looking at the options.
Also, what do you do if you're riding and it starts to rain (which isn't a huge issue in S TX)? Pull it off quickly of put a baggie over it where my first two thoughts.
I got the one from FuelMoto that I believe is a tech mount and it is fine but I've since wished I got the one from www.leadermotorcycle.com instead. It appears you can pop it off to take to the computer and then pop it back on. Mine is fine but you do have to unbolt it every time you want to take it to the computer.
Question for the experts. I did a little log tonight just to check on things. This is the new VE for the rear. The red values just continue to climb and climb. What could be happening at 0% TP to keep them growing? Is it some sort of leak? The only thing about the rear cylinder that is happening is a small oil leak at the left rear rocker box gasket. I have the gasket set, but was going to wait until after a June trip to fix it. Anyway, not sure it is related. Any ideas on the climbing VEs?
You apparently have reversion going on at 0%, as those values are too high. I would put them back to their original numbers and avoid tuning that area.
I also have had trouble with that exact region, but mine tunes progressively leaner. I ended up using -10 from stock values since AFR was originally set at 12.5:1, which is too rich IMO, and it runs fine there. My tune is about as good as it's going to get by now and when I run datalogs I just move the old VE's for that area of the 0% column to the new VE table, thereby making no changes there. Actually, what I've been doing lately is just selectively tweaking a few areas of the tune by manually changing VE values in WinPV using the New VE values in PV Tune.
When tuning you need to watch what's going on, as sometimes these anomalies occur. In my case I was getting slow leaning in that area of 0%, slow enough where I didn't notice it. I was getting popping which I attributed to Decel Engleanment, which I unsuccessfully kept trying to tweak, until I noticed that one or two cells at 0% were abnormally low compared to those surrounding it. After making those changes I no longer have a decel-popping problem.
Has anyone found a good idle to stick with? Ive got mine set at 950 and it seems to vibrate the whole bike more than normal while sitting on the kickstand or in traffic.
When you bike starts it is at 1350 RPM or so until the temp comes to temp. You bike's computer goes though several sensor checks. Once it has run though it's pre-checks, and the motor comes to temp it will step down to 1000 RPM.
1000 RPM might sound high, but after you have ridden for a while, and you come to a stop light the idle will seem a lot smoother at 1000 RPM.
One thing I have noticed with my bike, and I use the SEPST, but that is irrelevant is that if you start up and ride off without the bike finishing checks, and the bike still pulling in air (you can hear it, and hear is stop) it runs really ruff for the entire time you ride until you shut it off.
A lot of folks say with EFI you can just start and go. Well I still let the bike finish its start up checks, and then if possible I wait until the heads (rocker boxes) get a little warm to touch before I ride off. I find that this gives me a smooth ride, and also helps with fuel mileage.
I have did the start and go, and the bike just doesn't really like to roll that way. It likes to be at running temp before you head down the road.
Everyone has their own way of doing things though.
Thats very interesting, i let my bike idle and warm up.for a few minutes but it has not settled down to the at temp idle rpm when i take off. I will definately let it get up to operating temp from now on.
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