That is sound advice. Here you go:
http://www.dynojet.com/powervision/p...Power%20Vision

You'll find the DJ instruction manuals here; but, reading the thread from where the AT firmware begins will give you actual testing results from other riders and there are some valuable experiences scattered throughout. Good luck!

 

Can anyone confirm thqt the autotune wideband o2 sensors will not work with sportster shot shots?

 

I use the log tuner software the most. I pretty much gave up trying to decipher what exactly is going on with max% changed etc. Go into log tuner and import the pvv and it will tell you exactly which cells were above or below the 5% mark. Log tuner is great at telling exactly what is happening and in which cells. Look for the cells (rpm and map) that are outside of the 5% range. Then go out and hit those areas hard and see if they get within 5%. You also don't need to set PV up at 50 for minimum hits. I have mine set to 20 to speed things up.

Yes killing yourself to get data in cells you don't ride in is frustrating. It really depends how complete you want your tune. What I did was to go out and log a couple hour ride as I would usually ride. Try to hit some hills, do some roll ons, pass a few cars at a good clip and up to 85 on the freeway. Then come back and look at the logs. The log will pretty much describe your riding habits. Then when you go out on tuning runs hit cells 500 rpms higher and go out to 80 MAP. That should cover your riding area. If you never go above 4000 RPM's there's really no reason to run the bike that high or put yourself in harms way out on the street. Some will tell you that you need to run up to 5500 rpms or whatever. No need for that if you never ride like that. It isn't worth dangering yourself to get the bike running decent. Just make sure you DO tune a little beyond how you ride as the ECM uses that data, even though you don't ride there.

After you have the VE's dialed in then I set up my AFR. I'm not a big fan of running closed loop so mine are set at 14.0 in idle and 14.2 up to 4000 rpms. How you set up your AFR's is more of a personal thing. I don't see any reason to set them up too rich but at the same time 14.6 is too lean for me in CL. The bias will richen it up some, but not much. So I would play around with the AFR's and decide how you want to run it before hitting the timing. It may ping some in CL and not, at say, 14.0 AFR. So you want to have an idea whether you prefer CL or OL before working on your timing.

Once your VE's are good to go, and you have the AFR table set up, then make some timing runs. Again, log tuner will tell you exactly which cells timing was pulled from. When you import the pvv just calc the tune using knock retard front and knock retard rear and leave your VE's alone. I make a note of which cells timing was pulled from. then I raise all the other 3 degrees, leaving the changed cells alone. Then make another timing run. Rinse and repeat. Once you get to a point where nothing is changing drop the entire table (excluding idle) 2 or 3 degrees. You should be good to go. Depending on the temp your tuning in and how much the temp changes in the dead of summer will determine if you need to make further changes in your timing. When that time comes you may want to look at the temp tables to pull timing if it pings in the heat of summer. This way your bike runs the best when it's cool and takes out timing based on heat, rather than losing performance when it's cool because you manually pulled timing. Hope that makes sense.

Finally, when you have your timing where you want it you should go out and do a final VE run or two. Timing changes will affect your VE's slightly so you want to finish up the tune with a final VE run.

Basically, I do VE's then AFR then Timing and then a final VE run. After that.... gas it up and ride.

Some folks like to tune and let the PV do it all behind the scenes. Personally, I prefer seeing everything in the log tuner software. Play around with it and you'll develop a system that you like and can understand.

 

I'm not on a high horse. I just keep reading about smoothing and it doesn't make any sense. Why take a good tune and ruin it because the graph doesn't look pretty? Regardless, the ECM is going to win every time if it's a closed loop tune. You change a VE...ECM says nope, I don't like that and changes it behind you. You won't win. You may be proud of that pretty graph but the ECM has plans of its own.

EGR is a whole different animal and should probably have it's own sticky. It's ALOT of trial and error and back and forth. Will it make a difference? Yes. How much? That's something every individual person will need to decide if it's even worth trying. All my point is that once the VE's are dialed in forget what the graph is looking like. The bike says "Hey this is what I like". PV says "Hey I hear you loud and clear and will set up the VE's just how you like them". All the graph does is take numbers and makes a picture out of them. But too many get caught up in the picture instead of listening to what the bike wants.

 

I agree don't start at the beginning of thread but anyone wanting to learn more in detail will find they do need to do some reading prior to autotune. I am with stailjim and find more value in using log tuner. For those that will get into log tuner will find reading before autotune useful. I also think for many they will do a few autotunes and call it good and never get into the details.

 

Does anybody know how to un lock the tunes? I have got new computer and can not get to my tunes that I have made. I get on my old laptop with them but can not figure out how to unlock them. Have not tried but one work around maybe to put tunes on power vision then put them on my new computer? Has anyone else changed computers and had tunes locked?

 

Weather was great today...high 65, so I did my first AT, I would like to get your opinion on how the numbers look, I have two screen shots of the delta file. I compare the FM map and todays AT. What the goal here?

 

I've never had any locked up on me. I always put my tunes on a flash drive just in case. regardless, you should be able to send to PV and then get from PV on the new pc.

 

The screen shots were too small to see on my laptop. Maybe someone else can see them.

The delta won't help us much if you're looking for feedback. All the delta tells you is how much changed from the tune you started with and the tune you ended up with. It will continue to show changes every time you make a new tune. What it doesn't tell you is if you're near the finish line. You can either rely on the % results at the end of the process or use log tuner to look at every cells change. What did the results say at the end of your new tune?

 

When you say locked, do you mean you cannot edit them? One thing I don't care for in the software is that the default file locations are hidden and have special permissions set. I don't use them and save my tunes to another location of my choosing. I can easily find them via explorer or other methods. If you haven't already try opening the tunes, saving them to a new location, and then copying.