Power Vision Information Thread
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 569
Likes: 0
From: USA
That's all I use is the 4 gauge. RPM, engine temp, battery voltage, and gear. If, like you say, I'm chasing something, I'll add them and use the 6 gauge.
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 401
Likes: 22
From: Lebanon, Pa
I have a question on the speedo calibration.
I was going to use a Garmin GPS I have to see if my speedo calibration was right. I wanted to use the Power vision to display my speed digitally to make it easy to see. I selected VSS on the power vision. I noticed that this showed about 2-3 mph different than my speedo with VSS showing slower.
my calibration was set to 2127 the difference came out to about a 4% difference. I set the speedo cal to 2222 but the speedo still seems off the VSS
I plan on checking with the GPS tomorrow but wondering why the VSS and the Speedo were off
Thanks
I was going to use a Garmin GPS I have to see if my speedo calibration was right. I wanted to use the Power vision to display my speed digitally to make it easy to see. I selected VSS on the power vision. I noticed that this showed about 2-3 mph different than my speedo with VSS showing slower.
my calibration was set to 2127 the difference came out to about a 4% difference. I set the speedo cal to 2222 but the speedo still seems off the VSS
I plan on checking with the GPS tomorrow but wondering why the VSS and the Speedo were off
Thanks
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,543
Likes: 19
From: Ashland Ohio
Good advice. You'll also get better gas mileage by keeping the rpm's up there a little. Running below 23/2400 rpms in 6th will keep you jumping up into the 60 and 70 kPa cells at the slightest twist of the throttle. 2500 rpms will help you stay in the 40 50 kPa cells during cruising.
Also running it in the low 2000's in 6th it will be prone to more knock events if not dialed in spot on. These bikes really need to stay above 2500 rpms, they just seem to like it there and higher.
Also running it in the low 2000's in 6th it will be prone to more knock events if not dialed in spot on. These bikes really need to stay above 2500 rpms, they just seem to like it there and higher.
Boy... I could NOT agree more. Like a 1000% agree.
Dudes think it's kool to run the engine at 1800 rpms. That beats the engine to death. Ride where it was MADE to ride at, and it's nice, smooth, ready for that throttle twist, etc.
This IS a dead horse, but it does need repeating once and awhile.
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 273
Likes: 7
From: East TN
was wondering if anyone had a map that would be close to my set up they could email me tobiasd@charter.net?
2007 96", stage 1 intake, SE255 cams, V&H true dual w/ V&H HI-output slip-ons
Thanks in advance I have gotten through about 200 pages of this thread but still have a long way to go.
2007 96", stage 1 intake, SE255 cams, V&H true dual w/ V&H HI-output slip-ons
Thanks in advance I have gotten through about 200 pages of this thread but still have a long way to go.
Road Master
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 981
Likes: 353
From: Wisconsin
Long answer - No, operating in closed loop requires use of sensors/feedback, and on these bikes there are no other sensors to do that.
However you could run open loop and not use data from the O2 sensors.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,365
Likes: 9
From: Greensboro, NC
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Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 569
Likes: 0
From: USA
was wondering if anyone had a map that would be close to my set up they could email me tobiasd@charter.net?
2007 96", stage 1 intake, SE255 cams, V&H true dual w/ V&H HI-output slip-ons
Thanks in advance I have gotten through about 200 pages of this thread but still have a long way to go.
2007 96", stage 1 intake, SE255 cams, V&H true dual w/ V&H HI-output slip-ons
Thanks in advance I have gotten through about 200 pages of this thread but still have a long way to go.