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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 03:25 PM
  #3551  
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stailjim61
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Originally Posted by fuelmoto
One important aspect to understand is if you turn off closed loop for a given area and the surrounding cells are closed loop, even though the integrator is switched off (short term fuel adjustment) the open loop area will still be affected by adaptive control (AFV/AFF) which block learns over a cluster of related cells. Essentially, what is learned in closed loop is applied to an area of open loop. One way you could get around this would be to get your calibration sorted and when finished leave adaptive control turned off, it would still be closed loop with the integrator but would not store adaptive trims. This is how nearly all other motorcycle EFI systems operate.
Ahhhhhh. Very slick idea. My VE's are all 1 -2% change so I'm sure I'm good to go there. I will reflash to rid all the trims and turn of AFF and run it from there. Thanks for the response!
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 03:27 PM
  #3552  
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Originally Posted by S.D.M.F
I will never mount long term, so i didnt see the need for a $$$ chrome mount.

I got this off ebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Arkon-GN0...item53e9f0d09d

US $12.95

works perfectly for my needs.
I use this as well. Cheap and works great.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 03:45 PM
  #3553  
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Heatwave
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For those looking for another alternative for mounting their PV, here's how I made my PV easily removable, easily adjusted (even when riding) with a bracket that looks very nice even when the PV is detached..

I started with Kuryakyn's universal chrome handlebar clamp (get the size that fits your handllebar) http://www.kuryakyn.com/Products/375...y-Mount-Clamps

Attach a Ram 1" ball (RAM-B-337U $8.95) to the Kuryakyn mount. http://www.gpscity.com/ram-mount-fem...am-b-337u.html
using a 0.25-20 thread stainless steel socket head or phillips head screw from your local hardware (I forget the exact length but I believe it's either 1" or 1.25").

Attach this Ram mount plate (RAM-B-347U $5.72) to the back of your PV. http://www.gpscity.com/ram-mount-rec...am-b-347u.html
If you're particular, you can replace the plated back plate screws with stainless steel screws.

Now attach the ball on the back of your PV to the ball on your handlebar with this Ram clamp (RAP-B-201U-A $7.50) http://www.gpscity.com/ram-mount-pla...-b-201u-a.html

You'll now have a mounting system on your handlebar that will allow the PV to be easily removed for either security or to download inside your home with an attractive handlebar mount still on the bike. You'll also save some $ over other alternatives. You'll still need to plug/unplug the PV but you'll need to also plug/unplug the PV with the quick detach planned for the Techmount.



 
Attached Thumbnails Power Vision Information Thread-sany0052.jpg   Power Vision Information Thread-sany0054.jpg  

Last edited by Heatwave; Dec 16, 2012 at 03:47 PM.
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 03:49 PM
  #3554  
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Default Knock count help

I have a 2012 SG with cobra head pipe, supertrap se slip ons, A/C and power vision. The bike runs great and I'm happy with it except I've been getting knock counts with my front cylinder when in 4th or 5th gear going up a hill or under load, usually between 2500 and 3000 rpm. When I get on it going through the gears, no knock count and the bike runs great. I thought my rear cylinder would be the one to get the knock count as it runs a little hotter, but never get any on the rear.

I've removed 4 degrees of timing from the front cylinder between 2500 and 3000, but still had the knock counts. So I lowered my lambda .002 from .0981 to .0961 at the 2500 to 3000 rpm and between 30 and 50 kpa. Same results

As I'm still learning how to tune with the PV, am I doing the correct steps to take care of the knock counts? Has anyone had a similar situation that can help me out?
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 05:17 PM
  #3555  
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Originally Posted by wakerider
I have a 2012 SG with cobra head pipe, supertrap se slip ons, A/C and power vision. The bike runs great and I'm happy with it except I've been getting knock counts with my front cylinder when in 4th or 5th gear going up a hill or under load, usually between 2500 and 3000 rpm. When I get on it going through the gears, no knock count and the bike runs great. I thought my rear cylinder would be the one to get the knock count as it runs a little hotter, but never get any on the rear.

I've removed 4 degrees of timing from the front cylinder between 2500 and 3000, but still had the knock counts. So I lowered my lambda .002 from .0981 to .0961 at the 2500 to 3000 rpm and between 30 and 50 kpa. Same results

As I'm still learning how to tune with the PV, am I doing the correct steps to take care of the knock counts? Has anyone had a similar situation that can help me out?
Are you getting knock while running your bike in Auto tune? While in Auto tune the PV automatically removes 4 degrees of timing. If you have removed 4 degrees of timing and then run it Auto tune with knock, that is 8 degrees of timing removed from where you started, something not right. Next time you ride select Log Start and create a log so you can view it in excel, if knock is detected you will be able see exactly where it is.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 05:35 PM
  #3556  
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Thanks bohica48, but how do you view the data log in excel
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 06:29 PM
  #3557  
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Originally Posted by wakerider
Thanks bohica48, but how do you view the data log in excel
Once you create a log while riding hook your PV to your pc via usb cable, open WinPV software and select "Get Log", this will download the log file to your pc which you can open with MS Office Excel.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 07:51 AM
  #3558  
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tdkkart
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Originally Posted by wakerider
I've removed 4 degrees of timing from the front cylinder between 2500 and 3000, but still had the knock counts. So I lowered my lambda .002 from .0981 to .0961 at the 2500 to 3000 rpm and between 30 and 50 kpa. Same results
As I'm still learning how to tune with the PV, am I doing the correct steps to take care of the knock counts? Has anyone had a similar situation that can help me out?

Put the timing back and try raising the Volumetric Efficiency numbers by about 5% in the affected MAP and rpm area and try again. Raising the VE numbers will add fuel which should cool things off a bit.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 06:18 PM
  #3559  
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Hello, is there anyone who has a higher knowledge of the tuning process that will take a map that is showing less than 5% changes when autotuned and tweak/smooth it? I have sent Fuelmoto a few of my maps to check out but they are so busy and I understand they can't tweak each map. I can do simple autotuning but when it comes to more in depth tweaking I am ignorant.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2012 | 11:43 AM
  #3560  
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Originally Posted by lhgdale
Hello, is there anyone who has a higher knowledge of the tuning process that will take a map that is showing less than 5% changes when autotuned and tweak/smooth it? I have sent Fuelmoto a few of my maps to check out but they are so busy and I understand they can't tweak each map. I can do simple autotuning but when it comes to more in depth tweaking I am ignorant.
If you are getting requested changes of less than 5% you should be right there, the VE tables are not going to be necessarily smooth. In the end we are really looking for what the motor wants based on what the system is seeying. I have not received any recent emails or maps to take a look at, the last coorespondence is when I sent you a new map for your D&D 2/1 on Dec 5th. You can send your current map to jamie@fuelmotousa.com and I would be more than happy to review it
 
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Last edited by fuelmoto; Dec 18, 2012 at 11:47 AM.
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