Power Vision Information Thread
Smokey
Smokey
The corrupt data? i have never used log tuner. You will have to get an answer from some one else on that. many here like it and use it but i dont. If you did not hear any knock or pings i would say you are ok with the small amount being pulled. The power vision maps ( most i have seen ) are set up to back timing off up to 8deg. But i am curious..... when you advanced your timing 1 deg, did it make a noticable differance? If not i would put it back where it was and ride on happy.
Smokey
Here's some tips to filling the top right corner of the table:
- use WinPV to temporarily lower your idle rpm to 900. Below 900 you risk loading oil pressure. Change it back to 950-1050 after tuning. This makes it a lot easier to tune for "standing start take off".
- "learn" the table from left to right. Don't try and tune the 1125 rpm 100% throttle square first.
- find a large empty shopping centre car park and do heaps of stop-start runs, and not accelerating until you have the clutch fully released. In first and second gear. Yes, you will get some clunking at the start and it might stall a few times but the short term pain is worth it.
- find a quiet open road and ride along in a tall gear (4th, 5th, 6th) at 1500 rpm. Open the throttle quickly to 10% and hold it there while the bike accelerates. Then repeat at 20% throttle. Then repeat at 30% throttle, etc. continue until you get to 100% throttle. The aim is to get hits in a vertical column, not a horizontal row. This makes the process much quicker.
- then repeat the whole step above but starting from 1250 rpm. Then from 1100 rpm.
Here is one of my recent tables (ve hits) after a 1 hour session. Note the hits in the top right:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/95566272@N06/8837286097/http://www.flickr.com/photos/95566272@N06/8837286097/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/95566272@N06/, on Flickr
Here's some tips to filling the top right corner of the table:
- use WinPV to temporarily lower your idle rpm to 900. Below 900 you risk loading oil pressure. Change it back to 950-1050 after tuning. This makes it a lot easier to tune for "standing start take off".
- "learn" the table from left to right. Don't try and tune the 1125 rpm 100% throttle square first.
- find a large empty shopping centre car park and do heaps of stop-start runs, and not accelerating until you have the clutch fully released. In first and second gear. Yes, you will get some clunking at the start and it might stall a few times but the short term pain is worth it.
- find a quiet open road and ride along in a tall gear (4th, 5th, 6th) at 1500 rpm. Open the throttle quickly to 10% and hold it there while the bike accelerates. Then repeat at 20% throttle. Then repeat at 30% throttle, etc. continue until you get to 100% throttle. The aim is to get hits in a vertical column, not a horizontal row. This makes the process much quicker.
- then repeat the whole step above but starting from 1250 rpm. Then from 1100 rpm.
Here is one of my recent tables (ve hits) after a 1 hour session. Note the hits in the top right:

Autotune by Darke Peak, on Flickr
Hey Dark peak , we are running a similar setup except for cam . How about a copy of your map to tweak on? . marknett@centurylink.net
If your cam is standard but you have a full 2-1 exhaust + stage 1 AC then you would be better off using the pre configured tune in the PV to suit.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Oh and LT will only pull timing out, not put timing in. So if you get the timing pulled to a point where you don't have many knock events or even no knock events, you can go back and add 1* across the board in your timing tables and start over pulling out timing with LT to drop just those cells that don't like the 1+ degree you added while leaving the ones that do like alone. I have not added any to mine as of yet and don't know if I will. My bike is running really good right now and my logs are looking really good as well. I still have some minor Knock events that I am using LT on, but I have saved my maps so if I go too far and start to lose performance I can always back up a couple of steps. I always keep one of the Maps the bike likes in slot 6 as a backup I can switch back to if need be. I try to always put the map I am currently running in slot 1. To do this you have to save the new map you create to that slot and overwrite the map that is in that slot which means if you want to keep that map for later use on the pv itself you have to first get it from the pv slot 1 with winpv, then save it back to the pv in a different slot #6 in my case if it is a good map. Then save to new map I just created using LT back to the pv slot 1. Now I can load slot 1 to the ecm and I will have the map I am going to run in slot 1.......LOL.
Your post just answered every one of my questions regarding Log Tuner and timing. The instructions on fuelmoto's page left a lot out, assuming I guess that we already knew most of this stuff.
I did a bunch of auto tuning over the weekend and had one run that was +9%, but the rest were all < 3%, so I decided to take the leap and start messing with spark. After reading your post, the light went off in my head. I made (4) 15-20 logs of my current map today during my commute and just ran them through LT. Turns out I had some knock events in the front cylinder.
Now for the scary part (for me). I'm a little nervous about messing with timing. My calc shows that less than 1* of timing will be removed across the 3K band at 80, 90, and 95 KPa (screen shot attached).
Is that typical? Am I heading in the right direction? (Yes, I need reassurance.
Last edited by SquidHead; Jun 11, 2013 at 10:16 PM.
First, I have a '12 Fat Bob...
So, am I AFR or Lambda? I've read that non TBW bikes are AFR. But I don't see any AFR settings on my PV's log config page. (below)
I'm prolly not understanding what the acronyms mean.
I am not seeing Warmup AFR (or Lambda), Acceleration Enrichment, or Desired AFR/Lambda.
And the Log Tuner S/W will not create a tune without them. I keep getting a flag that these channels are missing from my imported log.
Thanks much fellas.
And frankly, I'd give my left nut just to see a list of what the more cryptic things mean.... B+, CLI, AFF, IAT, IAC, O2V, and VSS.


These are the instructions I'm trying to follow from earlier in this thread.
MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure)*
ET (Engine Temp)*
Warm-up AFR or Lambda*
TP (Throttle Position)*
Engine Speed (RPM)*
VE New Front*
VE New Rear*
Accel Enrich*
Spark Knock Front*
Spark Knock Rear*
Desired Air/Fuel (Ratio)* or
Desired Air/Fuel (Lambda)*
Later versions of Log Tuner may also require:
VE Front*
VE Rear*
Add these if using autotune for both AFR and Lambda bikes/calibrations
Lambda 1**
Lambda 2 **
* From H-D data bus
** From Auto Tune (when equipped)



