You did. The only thing I would emphasize is not to try to mix timing changes with VE calibration. You have to MAKE SURE your VE's are good FIRST. Then, and only then, mess with timing. Another thing to remember: A datalog alone can sometimes be difficult to interpret. Many on this forum have pulled timing in the wrong cells only to chase their tail. They see knocks in the 40 kPa area and then pull timing in the 40 column. Wrong column! Or they don't look far enough BEFORE the knock is logged to reduce the correct cell. The best way to do it is to set up your datalog like you would for a full LT tune. Then take the tick marks out of VE f and VE r and let log tuner make ONLY timing corrections. It will correct the tune but leave the VE's alone (they should be good already right?). So, if you're going to start from scratch here's what I'd do. Seeing as how you've already messed with timing I would get rid of all knock events. Then do 2 more VE runs to make sure they're good. Then come back and add 1 degree across the entire table from 1500 to 5000 and from 30 kPa to 80 kPa. Then datalog and run it through LT again. Let LT tweak any knock events until they're all gone. LT corrects and you reflash. Keep doing it until all knocks are gone. Try to do this at the same time of day. When they're all gone pull 2 degrees in the high load areas. 60, 70, 80 kPa. Run one more VE run. This time don't use AT. Do your final VE calibration using LT. This way your VE's are rock solid based on your REAL timing numbers and not the AT reductions. AT is fine for getting your numbers going in the right direction, but, I prefer to finalize a tune using LT. One last datalog to ensure all is well. If you take the time to do all that you should end up with pretty nice VE's and also a timing table that won't ping on you. Now, that's pretty much a basic tune. Good for the majority of "normal" riders and bikes. You really don't need to go much beyond that unless you sense some vibrations at certain RPM's and loads. Get the basic tune legwork done, then tweak. If you start tweaking BEFORE the basic legwork has been done you'll never get it right.

 

You dont need to scroll through every flag. Just load it as a compare and look for the flags. If every other table is flag-free and the only tables that have flags are the f and r VE's then you need to do some more AT runs. If you only have VE corrections at 1000 RPM's then something isn't right. You should have corrections throughout the VE tables. Evenso, those changes at idle wouldn't make the bike run as bad as you described. Try starting over with the initial cal you started with. Do a compare EACH time you reflash and make notes of what's happening. What EXACTLY changed? How did the bike respond?

 

stailjim61 OK so feeling good from my last run and only 6 cells on my front cylinder showing knock hits. I added the 2* to those 6 cells. Today with my new tune I went on a 35 mile run data logging. I was riding solo today and did have some traffic, and I rode more aggressively as I do when I'm solo. So first the "bad" news, not really but the bike ran so good I was sure my spark knock would be zero! Here are my front and rear spark tables


I then applies only the Spark changes made by DL to my current tune then reflashed this new tune to my bike. Then I went on another 30 mile run, riding just as hard if not harder. I was just riding normal for me, really not crazy by no means, just a nice strong run on familiar roads. I can't believe the bike keeps running better, so good that I'm starting to ponder if I really need cams.....but I bet I go for them. I was expecting the bike to run worse, but happy to be wrong. Anyways.....no spark knock either cylinders!!!! I'll do this a few more times and see what I get.
stailjim61, THANK YOU! you are a big help. Thanks for taking the time to reply and provide me/us with this info. How did I do so far?
Thanks Mike

 

Just kidding. I did my first auto tune today. Now when I loaded the map I got from Fuel Moto, it did not run very good. Big difference after the auto tune. Is that bad? What I mean is should I try to find a map that runs better, then auto tune? Or should I just run a few more auto tunes and go from there? Nothing against FM either, think their outstanding.

I don't have anything amazing on the bike, just the FM A/C and V&H straightshot slip-ons. The bike does run better now, but still some decel pop and an occasional fart when shifting, though not always from the bike. I do tend to be a bit aggressive with my riding style, so was wondering if the wideband O2 might be the way to go as well. I would like to put a cam in eventually which was the reason for the PV, I figured it would be fun to learn how to use it and have more control over what the bike was doing.

I am new to tuning and have basic knowledge of how it works, but would like to learn more. Any suggestions on where to start? This thread is monstrous but I read as much as I can. Obviously reading a thread on a forum won't make me an expert either. I do not want to blow up my engine so slow and steady and from the beginning works well for me.

I appreciate any help. Eyes open.

 

I was looking at my map, which started as a FM map. My EITMS is set for 310*C on and 135*C off. 310*C is 590*F. Is this set so high so it will never come on? What should it be set to?

 

Yes it's set so it won't come on. You can set it to come on and off at the temps you prefer.

 

Get the cams....you won't be able to get the smile off your face....And now you know how to tune for them.

 

Sounds like you're making good progress.

 

Run a few more auto tunes. The PV is doing exactly what it's supposed to.

 

Good, thanks for the response.
Anyone have any recomendations on good books for learning how to tune? My local library is pretty small.