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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
Frank. The SE map that you have, is it a dyno'd map with the same equipment you have now sir? If so, then yes you can take your timing and VE tables and copy them over however you need to know that the tables are not going to be correct and will require further tuning using the PV.
Did you ever figure out what the deal was with the rear cylinder and not being able to write VE values using the PV?
On a side note, I've been extremely busy lately with a lot of traveling so haven't been much help to you, so I apologize but I did have a conversation with your builder not mentioning any names about this issue. What he told me was that you really need to contact his/your tuner to make your issues right and your tuner will gladly take care of you given the chance. Of course this is all provided nothing has changed since the build and the tune were done.
thank you for your reply. nothing has changed since the dyno. No,, never figured out with rear cylinder not being able to write VE tables with PV. no PV tuners local here to help me. Ill try to transfer to PV and do basic tune and see outcome possibly this weekend.
You say they only appear when the engine gets hot, how hot? Normal op temps? Or sitting in traffic hot?
It may make more sense for you to retard your timing via temperature. Just a thought. Really depends on how hot is hot.
I do not sit in traffic) ever) Here in Prague lane splitting is OK with everybody, cops included.
I was getting knock at normal working temperature yesterday, around 230 F, and the day before was hotter, my temps were in 280 F area, I was also getting knock.
The matter is – I am getting knock only in front cylinder, while the rear one should be hotter, right?
If you're getting knocks events in the 230's range at the counts your talking about, I would then focus on the front jug. If it were me, I would actually retard by 5 not three, just to see if it went away, and then advance until it comes back and then back it down. Also when retarded by 5 I would be a good idea to see if you get knock events at 230, and also run the temperature up into the 280's 300's on purpose to see if you get knocks there and not the 230's... If that is the case this is where the global retard on temp would come into play.
One other thing to clarify, these are PV knock events only right? Meaning, you're are not actually hearing audible sounds like, "china plates breaking, or ball bearings" bouncing around in the front cylinder.
One last thing, you said Prague? Oklahoma? or..... Czech? If Czech you probably have **** gas:-)
Prague, Oklahoma) I like it man)
Gas here is OK, no ethanol, almost every pump sells 100 octane also. Better then, say, France.
Yeah I am talking PV knock events, I cannot hear it or register it anyhow myself.
I tried to locate the problematic cells from the log file, then subtracted the timing by 3 (when I subtract in WinPV, the cells get actually higher, right?)
Will ride her now and then report back.
Guys, I have been doing a few more Autotunes on my 07 EGC this year as I did a lot of work end of season and start of this season and noticed I was seeing a few hits to the knock counters for every ride session. Not many but up to a dozen on rear withing a couple of hours and less that 4 up front.
So I decided to recheck my ATs to make sure I was still in a happy zone and found I was not. Now all I did for work was mainly drive line work. New belt and pulleys on the final drive and a new SE compensator. Also new battery and new Cycle Electric voltage regulator as my OEM had started going intermittent.
So anyway, I've got it dialed in for VEs, but it changed so much from last years ending tune that it wanted to scale up. So I let it, and now it says I've got a 117ci displacement. It was 111 end of season last year. So there's that, but the bike is running great! Better than ever, so I decided to watch my mileage to see what I was getting there. I used the PV Trip Center and found it telling me I was getting mid 30s for mileage. Like 35mpg. Last year I was up in the low 40s mpg. So then I decided to check using the old fashiond method, so my last fill-up I used 3.1 gallons of Shell VPower (best we can do here in NE) and got over 130 miles on that. Rough math told me I was getting 42mpg.
So that confused me and now I'm looking at the tune on WinPV and I noted a ! on the MPG field for fuel. I never even noticed this box before in previous year. So it has a number in a field, that is the MPG Adjustment field. It says 1989
The description field is pretty worthless, all it says is a higher number gives a higher reading and lower number a lower reading for MPG. Anyone else have a similar year bike pre-2009 and tell me what theirs is set at? I think somehow I may have an incorrect setting here, throwing off my Trip Center readings.
In the trip center you can input any 'real' value in place of a 'computed' value. If the PV sez you've use 3.7 Gal, but the pump sez you used 3.9 Gal, you can input 3.9 into the fuel used cell. This will help refine the estimates in the trip center. I suspect that these kinds of inputs will show up in the MPG adjustment value.
So Ive been doing some auto tune runs from a base map supplied by Fuel Moto, while they only had a map close to my bike which is set up for A/C 2-1-2 exhaust and tw555 cams while I am running the same but 57H cams. While doing a compare in win pv the only modified cells are in the center and the exact same cells on front and back cylinders. I supplied a screen shot. Any insight on what im looking at or any problems would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. I also would like to know how to change from Celsius to Fahrenheit in my win pv tables. Thanks again.
Last edited by Jrindagame; May 28, 2014 at 03:56 AM.
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