Power Vision Information Thread
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 848
Likes: 30
From: CO
Well, the borescope arrived today and I couldn't wait to pull the plugs and get a good look around inside the jugs. It looks pretty bad. Most of the pics are from the front cylinder but the rear looks exactly the same. Most of the pics are the tops of the pistons. The bottoms of the valves look like the tops of the pistons. I guess the good news is that the cylinder wall honing seems to still be in good shape. I wonder if I continue feeding her Seafoam in every tank if it will clean any of this up. What the hell though. 7500 miles 
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 569
Likes: 0
From: USA
Does anyone know the ideal idle spark advance. Stock is 20 degrees. I've seen other tuners do 16-18. I've tried all of these and can't really tell any difference. I just wanna do everything possible to lower idle temps, and in addition to adding fuel, it seems logical that bringing spark back might help a little. I also set idle to 950rpm instead of 1000, though I doubt that has much of an impact, it just sounds a little better. Anyway, 20 degrees for idle seems a bit high. Just wondering if anyone knows of a reason to keep it that high.
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 569
Likes: 0
From: USA
I guess another point is that I was not really aware of how easy (for a professional trained on the Dyno and the power vision) he could dial in my tune. I sat next to my bike and was able to watch every move John, of Dyno Solutions made. We were looking at the Dyno's (250i I think) screen seeing the real time AFR's and the air fuel mixture. John explained a lot of what was going on. He watched all the data and then adjusted the VE tables. If John asked me, based upon the data we were seeing on the screen where to adjust the VE's I would have been WAY off. This is where his dyno knowledge is priceless.
Stailjim61 you have helped me out a lot on this thread, Thank you!
My auto tune leaned out my 90 & 100% VE's too much. I hit those cells a lot and it leaned them out basically between 2500-4000 rpm's. That, and me pulling way too much timing out, made my bike run good, just not AWESOME! The dyno session was also an education on tuning. If I ever choose to alter this or any other map I have a greater understanding of how to proceed. I recommend finding a good dyno tuner and go for it.
Stailjim61 you have helped me out a lot on this thread, Thank you!
My auto tune leaned out my 90 & 100% VE's too much. I hit those cells a lot and it leaned them out basically between 2500-4000 rpm's. That, and me pulling way too much timing out, made my bike run good, just not AWESOME! The dyno session was also an education on tuning. If I ever choose to alter this or any other map I have a greater understanding of how to proceed. I recommend finding a good dyno tuner and go for it.
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: WA
RD,
Those pics show something odd. It looks like crystals on the piston tops, carbon shouldn't look like that (unless its a diamond), also in the last pic, it looks like something smeard from the piston to the cylinder wall.
Those pics show something odd. It looks like crystals on the piston tops, carbon shouldn't look like that (unless its a diamond), also in the last pic, it looks like something smeard from the piston to the cylinder wall.
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: WA
RD,
Those pics show something odd. It looks like crystals on the piston tops, carbon shouldn't look like that (unless its a diamond), also in the last pic, it looks like something smeard from the piston to the cylinder wall.
Those pics show something odd. It looks like crystals on the piston tops, carbon shouldn't look like that (unless its a diamond), also in the last pic, it looks like something smeard from the piston to the cylinder wall.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 848
Likes: 30
From: CO
So I saw those white looking spots as well, but I'm not sure if that's actually what it looks like or its reflected light from the bright LED on the end of the camera. Oh and that last pic is actually the top of the cylinder. I was trying to get pics of the valves, but was having a hard time getting the camera pointed up. But basically the bottoms of the valves and cylinder tops look like the tops of the pistons. And I don't know whats up with that rust looking stuff where the cylinder wall and the top meet.
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Road Master
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 848
Likes: 30
From: CO
I wish I had scoped it before all the seafoaming. This is what it looks like AFTER I have added it to the fuel, sprayed it into the intake when it's running, and also sprayed some through the spark plug holes and let it sit for a while.