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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
I've read it all, (well most of it anyway). Alot of good info, and a good knowledge base to pull from, but.... after all that reading, and the different changes, and opinions, and changing opinions, I might still need to ask a question or two from time to time. And I'll be happy to pitch in when I can.
So the ride, a second hand 2004 RK Custom with 95" big bore kit, SE HTCC Heads and pistons, SE breather, and V&H Propipe, with unknown cams. Dyno and remap from dealer. Mods done back in '07 at 9000 miles, I picked it up last summer with 12000 miles. I've put on another 3500.
Picked up the PV and AT pro from FM TOD (the other day). Glad I did, the dyno'ed map had large area at 14.6. Now without the feedback of the O2 sensors ala 07, this is not where I want the bike to be. Heck I wouldn't want it there even with the feedback, but at least would have some certainty (with in the bounds of sensor accuracy and such, yes Jim) that it wasn't even leaner. Anyway, on travel for a few weeks, when I get back, get the bungs installed, exhaust back together, PV installed and on to logging and tuning.
When I run into a problem that I can't remember the answer to, or where in this haystack the needle lies, I'll ask.
14.6 is lean for sure. However, there are times when it's fine. For instance, the narrow area that someone cruises in. In that situation there's plenty of air flow to keep the engine cool. Another situation is bikes that ridden in 70/80 degrees temps all the time. I even have a map stored with CL at cruise if I know I'll be on the highway all day, even in the Texas heat. other than that I'm not a big fan of closed loop. The issue I have with some folks is when they try to make a closed loop tune do things it's not designed to do. Such as running the 02's way outside of where they're effective. Yep, on paper you run them down to 14.2 but they lose effectiveness and accuracy. Run them at a midpoint, whether a CLB map or lambda map, and they work as advertised. What most don't consider, or have knowledge about, is the difference between a closed loop and open loop tune. And, the pro's and cons of both. Someone that hotrods around is probably in open loop more than closed, even with a closed loop tune. Someone that does alot of cruising can benefit from the closed loop eceonomy. This is where a good tuner makes his money. He asks enough questions to get a good idea of how the bike is ridden, and then tunes accordingly. For the newbies, the smartest thing to do before screwing around with a tune, would be to come here and 1) describe the bike 2) describe how the bike is ridden 3) describe what he/she expects out of tune. Then folks who have tuned a bike to similar expectations could chime in with suggestions.
Man....what I wouldn't give for a great A-Z manual on this thing...
There is. All the information you need to navigate your way through a tune is right here. The rest has to be learned through experience. There's just too many things that can happen to put in a manual. That's why the smart thing for a newbie to do is run 4 or 5 auto tunes and if it's running nice, leave it alone. The only time someone would need to get into WinPV is to tweak certain areas if something weird is happening.
The manual is here. Anything beyond that can only come from experience. if someone is open minded and willing to do their due diligence there's alot of cool things to learn.
keep reading, There is a workaround posted in here. You have to open the .pvv file in notebook and delete "MAP based/" from the VE lines front and rear in the file. Then run LT as usual, Then put "MAP based/" back in theVE lines. I did it a couple times an I ain't very smart.
Thanks Smokey. I'm only on page 497, I hadn't found that little pearl.
Last edited by azlou66; Mar 18, 2014 at 07:15 AM.
Reason: spelling
There is. All the information you need to navigate your way through a tune is right here. The rest has to be learned through experience. There's just too many things that can happen to put in a manual. That's why the smart thing for a newbie to do is run 4 or 5 auto tunes and if it's running nice, leave it alone. The only time someone would need to get into WinPV is to tweak certain areas if something weird is happening.
The manual is here. Anything beyond that can only come from experience. if someone is open minded and willing to do their due diligence there's alot of cool things to learn.
Jim I would like to thank you for all of your input, my self help file is full of posts by you. I need to work my timing in Log Tuner.
Log Tuner is not reading knock events in my data log for some reason.
I now get my VE table, Thanks Smokey.
That could be good,no knock,are you seeing the cells with your hit counts? Did you enable spark knock front and rear on the PV gauges? Did you check the spark advance boxes when saving selected values?
That could be good,no knock,are you seeing the cells with your hit counts? Did you enable spark knock front and rear on the PV gauges? Did you check the spark advance boxes when saving selected values?
Smokey,
I'm not seeing hit counts. Can I use the log created during an AT session or do I need to log during a normal ride, ie AT disabled???
I did check the spark advance boxes along with VE f/r and AFR.
Thanks Bro.
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