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Old May 25, 2015 | 10:03 PM
  #7211  
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Exhaust gaskets still aren't seated yet (assuming that you used some).
It usually takes a few heat cycles for the manifold nuts to hold their torque, so set the torque, take a ride, let it cool, repeat until the nuts hold their torque. You can get a smoke source (incense, cigar, ...) and hold it under the manifold and muffler connections to check for leaks.
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 07:50 AM
  #7212  
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Originally Posted by KKjordan23
Question for y'all. I have a 14 Street Bob and recently installed a SE Heavy Breather and some thunderheader pipes... Today I installed my power vision and loaded a map suggested to me by Roy from PV (12D103002405, SE AC w/ VH 2into1).

The bike started up just fine and sounded amazing, however there was light smoke coming from the engine about 30 seconds into idle and continued. It was difficult to pinpoint exactly where it was coming from but it seemed like it was the header/engine connection area.

Has anyone else experienced this? Is it normal? Did I do something wrong? Let me know! I'm dying to take her out on the road with her new gear. Thanks!
Welcome to the forum. You'll usually get some light smoking with new pipes. there can be a layer of machine oil at the joints, collector, up by where it meets the engine, etc. I'd say run it and it should go away after a bit. there's really nothing else that would be causing smoke except residue on new pipes. could even be greasy hand marks on the pipe underneath the heat shields. 30 seconds or so is about right for that stuff to start vaporizing.
 

Last edited by LA_Dog; May 26, 2015 at 07:53 AM.
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Old May 28, 2015 | 06:00 AM
  #7213  
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Originally Posted by KKjordan23
Question for y'all. I have a 14 Street Bob and recently installed a SE Heavy Breather and some thunderheader pipes... Today I installed my power vision and loaded a map suggested to me by Roy from PV (12D103002405, SE AC w/ VH 2into1).

The bike started up just fine and sounded amazing, however there was light smoke coming from the engine about 30 seconds into idle and continued. It was difficult to pinpoint exactly where it was coming from but it seemed like it was the header/engine connection area.

Has anyone else experienced this? Is it normal? Did I do something wrong? Let me know! I'm dying to take her out on the road with her new gear. Thanks!




Always clean pipes and heat shields after install and before start up.
 
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Old May 28, 2015 | 08:19 PM
  #7214  
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So something strange started happening this afternoon. On a cold start my PV will start to boot up when I turn on the ignition, then when I turn the bike over and start the engine the screen goes black. If I turn it right off and do it again it boots fine. It did it 3 times today. So its not isolated.

Any ideas or help would be appreciated.
 
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Old May 28, 2015 | 08:27 PM
  #7215  
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If i understand what you are saying, I think you will find that most accessory power is cut off during cranking to give the starter 100% battery power. You will notice that your stereo does the same thing.
 
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Old May 28, 2015 | 08:36 PM
  #7216  
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Originally Posted by REPO1
If i understand what you are saying, I think you will find that most accessory power is cut off during cranking to give the starter 100% battery power. You will notice that your stereo does the same thing.
Oh i get that. It just never comes back once the bike is running. The screen stays black.
 
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Old May 28, 2015 | 08:38 PM
  #7217  
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(Maybe?) Coincidentally I got some bad gas this morning that had my bike running like crap on my way to work. The issue started when I cranked my bike after work to come home
 
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Old May 29, 2015 | 06:35 PM
  #7218  
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question if any of the experienced tuners know- in the data logs, I see hits for "knock count R" - some numbers like 2,3,4 and a lot of 1's - but in the "Spark knock F" or "Spark knock R" data columns they are all zeros. so why is the log picking up a knock count but not showing any spark knock retard value? I'm not seeing any indication of spark knocking going on or spark retard by the adaptive system
 
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Old May 31, 2015 | 03:29 PM
  #7219  
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Hello guys,I have a 2012 street glide with s&s 106 and woods 555 cams and cfr true duals, power vision with the auto tune pro, I have ran many runs with auto tune and I have taken it to be dyno tuned. My problem is when I want to ride aggressive and go through the gears at around 3500-4000 rpms it almost feels like it is hitting the rev limiter or it is too lean there in all gears but more noticable in 1st through 4th. I was told these cams it should be more like a power band in that area.I just did a update today with the power vision and was looking through some stuff but afraid to make any changes everything should already be set where it is supposed to be shouldnt it? or do I need to change anything within it to get it running the best i can? I was checking out the drive by wire vs gear setting for each gear and some were set to 255 and some were quite a bit lower but it said at the bottom that they should be all set to 255. any help would be greatly appreciated thanks
mike
 

Last edited by whynotf75; May 31, 2015 at 03:33 PM.
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Old May 31, 2015 | 05:11 PM
  #7220  
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You may want to post this in the top level ignition / tuning thread area- more people will see it. I have a feeling that most if not all of the expert-level tuners are no longer around. Except Jamie of course see him here occasionally, but he's really here to support FuelMoto customers (understandably).

If you just had it dyno tuned did this issue not show up during tuning? I would not run AT after having it dyno tuned assuming that was done properly.
 
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