Power Vision Information Thread
Here's my summer AFR table

Here's the view I like, No flat tops, or steep cliffs except my decel column, Smooth trasitions through the RPM power band. Not like jumping off a cliff into the deep end of the pool.
Last edited by Smokey Stover; Jun 2, 2015 at 08:45 AM. Reason: pics
Also, has he walked through your entire build with you, with the concept that the whole thing is one big system, and all the parts need to complement each other. I did a search of S&S 106 motors and quickly see that there are a lot of flavors to them so not sure what one you have. (stock heads, hi-performance heads, various pistons etc) But, I still wonder how well they are matched to your exhaust system. What head pipe are you using with those CFRs? (I know they are pretty and look cool, but I question how well they match the build across the power band.)
There's also this nagging possibility that you have 2 types of tunes in play here. The Dynotune done by the builder and your own Autotune you got done by the fact that you have the AutoTune Pro kit. I wonder if there is a chance that you've gotten some of the tuning wrong by mixing these together or some such.
When you did your AutoTunes, what base map did you start with? Was it something S&S gave you, or Dynojet? Or were you doing it with the Dyno tune you got from the builder?
Lot's of questions, but really your best bet is resolve the Throttle Body/Injector question first and then deal with the "get the tune right" process.
[QUOTE=whynotf75;14074957]
When you did Autotunes, did you successfuly get through the entire rpm range and iteratively finally get to a set of values within 5% or less through that range? Also as you did go through the autotunes did the ATs want to scale up and if you allowed the scale up, what final displacement value did you land on and were you finally able to do an AT without a request to continue to scale higher?
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I made sure I ran it through the rpm ranges many times that I was getting the lean dead spot in. I am not sure about the 5% or less it did ask if I wanted to reset values or something and I did..
I'd be interested in what your AFR lambda settings are for that rpm range also?
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I can text you a pic of the afr lambda. my cell is 440-251-3500 text me and I will send you a pic.
I do agree with LAdog that this should have shown during the dyno, and all of the settings you now have in your PV should be the result of that dynotune.
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I cant find the dyno graph I had but I even returned it to them and they did another dyno run and it still was the same,I will look through some pics I may have taken a pic to post on facebook of the graph.
The reason I ask about the scaling up thing, is when FuelMoto built my engine, they did an initial Dyno and found my fuel pump system to be failing at about 3500 rpm. The system just couldn't deliver anymore fuel at wot/high rpm, yet at lower rpms it felt fine. My only indication prior to the dynotune Jaime did was that the ATs kept wanting to scale up for the higher rpm numbers.
I've attached my dyno sheet for the example of what it looked like. Note the AFR just continues to gradually get leaner as the revs move beyond 3Krpm.
Makes me wonder if you don't have something similar.
Or, another thought, what are you using for a throttle body and injectors? Have those been upgraded? I wonder if they are able to deliver the fuel you need with that build? (but still that should have shown when you had a dynotune done)
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everything is stock except for the s&s 106 big bore and the cams and what ever cam with them. I wanted to do a fuel moto 107 kit but my builder kept directing me towards S&S..
I really appreciate your response and help trying to figure this out....
Last edited by oldhippie; Jun 2, 2015 at 10:14 AM.
. If I make a humble suggestion, try moving your closed loop AFRs up to 2k - 3k range. by having a bit richer AFR below 2k it should help with off-idle response in the low map range. I had this suggested to me and it makes sense, it made a bit of difference. thinking about it, i would never be cruising at less than 2400 anyway. only time I am at below 2k is when accelerating off idle towards a cruising rpm range. Anyway by doing this i was able to run a bit more timing advance in that same off-idle rpm area, and pick up better acceleration without any knock.fwiw- ;D
Last edited by LA_Dog; Jun 2, 2015 at 08:57 AM.
Also, has he walked through your entire build with you, with the concept that the whole thing is one big system, and all the parts need to complement each other. I did a search of S&S 106 motors and quickly see that there are a lot of flavors to them so not sure what one you have. (stock heads, hi-performance heads, various pistons etc) But, I still wonder how well they are matched to your exhaust system. What head pipe are you using with those CFRs? (I know they are pretty and look cool, but I question how well they match the build across the power band.)
There's also this nagging possibility that have 2 types of tunes in play here. The Dynotune done by the builder and your own Autotune you got done by the fact that you have the AutoTune Pro kit. I wonder if there is a chance that you've gotten some of the tuning wrong by mixing these together or some such.
When you did your AutoTunes, what base map did you start with? Was it something S&S gave you, or Dynojet? Or were you doing it with the Dyno tune you got from the builder?
Lot's of questions, but really your best bet is resolve the Throttle Body/Injector question first and then deal with the "get the tune right" process.
yep you nailed it- he can't do squat for proper tuning on that nice 106 build until the fuel delivery is sorted out. HD Delphi is the same regardless of tuning tool used to access it. Same fuel tables, timing etc. - If a dyno tuner understands what he's doing it would be apparent. in this case, not so much.
. If I make a humble suggestion, try moving your closed loop AFRs up to 2k - 3k range. by having a bit richer AFR below 2k it should help with off-idle response in the low map range. I had this suggested to me and it makes sense, it made a bit of difference. thinking about it, i would never be cruising at less than 2400 anyway. only time I am at below 2k is when accelerating off idle towards a cruising rpm range. Anyway by doing this i was able to run a bit more timing advance in that same off-idle rpm area, and pick up better acceleration without any knock.fwiw- ;D
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders

attached is my front spark table just as a comparison. rear is pretty much the same except i have tuned it differently in certain cells based on my log data.

My understanding is that 14.6 or the lambda "1" equivalent is a "software switch" that turns on closed loop tuning and that the sensors working with the ECM in closed loop mode.
"Using a value of 14.6 enables the ECM's ability to maintain closed loop fuel control." (from the explanantion in WinPV below the table for AFR based bikes)
However, (on page 75) of the PV manual it also states for AFR lambda, "Normally, using values between .98 and 1.02 allows the ECM to mainain closed loop fuel control."
So that's interesting, that with the cable throttle bikes, there is a difference, (I think!) between how closed loop gets turned on and off. The TBW bikes appear to be smarter, and not need a on/off switch type but just stay between that range.






