Ok thought I had read user manual but apparently did not. Got my computer setup for all the different files that I can retrieve from PV. Will work on getting them in and comparing tomorrow. Thanks so far for pointers but think I will have some more questions when I get further in to this process.

 

Okay, so I think I understand the confusion. So, there are 2 seperate things and activities.

1. Autotunes and creating Autotune files, which are .PVT files. These files are the actual tunes with all of the tune data and tables for your bike. These files are the files that get loaded into the ECM to modify the stock tune.

You get these files by either running Autotune, or modifying an existing tune that may have been provided by a vendor, like FuelMoto or Dynojet etc. (who did you buy it from?)

You do the Autotunes first, after loading the initial base tune for your bike and mods that may have been provided by the vendor. For instance FuelMoto will provide you a custom tune (sometimes called a "map") for your bike that replicates what they have found to be very close to (if not right on the money) for your particular bike.

You load that custom "map"/.pvt file into your ECM as a starting point. Then you do a series of Autotunes, to "dial in" your individual bike's VEs. After you run the first AT, save it to your PC and you can do a "Compare" on it, to the initial custom tune you got from the vendor. Some of the cells will be slightly or even siginficantly different. First bring up the original custom tune and then use >Compare>Load Compare the new Autotune you just created with the PV and saved to the PC. Then make sure you go to >Compare>Show Delta as Percent.

The you can click back and forth between the two files and in the "Compare File" which is your Auto Tune number 1, you will see the percent differences from the first.

So then go back to the PV, put it on the bike, load the new Autotune, and go out and run another Autotune and save that one. Then go through the same compare exercise as above. You will now see some probably new small percentage changes on some cells. Save that AT on the PC but also go back out and do it again. Keep doing this iteratively until all cells show less that 5% changes from the previous tune to this tune.

You are now done Aututuning, which means you have your VE tables dialed in to where your bike should be running very strong and smooth.

Now, You may be pretty much done, unless you are experiencing any decel popping or other issues. Once you learn how to use the guages, you might want to see if you are getting any signficant amound of spark knock events. If you are, then you might want to do a "Logging" excercise to see where that is happening, and diagnose a "Log File" which can be saved as a CSV file that can then be manipulated and analyzed in a simple spreadsheet. Or, as I mentioned it can be looked at in other various 3rd party tools, or perhaps, Dynojet's no longer supported but still useable Log Tuner tool. (there is a bug you need to learn how to resolve with a simple edit, and I have documentation on that.)

I'll try to go back in my files and find the right documents for you to look at, for some of this and put it in a Drop Box for you and others.

Does this help?

What Mods do you have on that sweet looking RK?

 

Thanks Steve for that info. Was reading up on it last night til I got too tired. Main part I was missing was the saving to my PC.

Mods I have a D&D Fatcat exhaust, Andrews 48H cams, and Screaming Eagle heavy breather.

 

So those are some nice mods. Where did you buy the unit, and were you able to get a good custom tune as a starting point? Most custom tunes are the result of someone putting a very similar modded bike on a dyno and actually doing dyno runs and adjusting from the stock ECM original HD tune. The VEs you can dial in nicely with AT, but the spark tables are something that you really need a good timing map to start. It really takes an expert tuner to be working in certain areas and that is one of them.

Here is some good reading for the PV

This one is the direction to run LogTuner, which is good for monitoring spark knock events and correcting them, but it is multistep process to use between Logtuner and WinPV. But don't be scared away from this, it isn't as hard as it reads.


https://www.dropbox.com/home?preview...structions.doc

Here is an EXCELLENT Powerpoint presentation on EFI Tuning that explains the Delphi ECM and all of the pertinent tuning concepts you need in order to use PV or any other tool to get the best tune for your bike. (not PV specific but well worth going through)
https://www.dropbox.com/home?preview=EFI+Basics.pdf

 

Bought the autotune w/wideband sensors here used and got 1st tune from Dynojet and it seems real close and have done a few runs with autotune but knew there is more information inside that box than I was getting. Will spend some time tonight looking at the comparisons and reading what you just posted. Thanks again.

 

Put a PV on my 2013 RGu worked great . I kept it on the bike most of the time to use other tools. Only mistake I made was buying if from Dynojet instead of Fuel moto.
Just over a year old the touch screen stop working. Put it a side a bought a new one from Fuel moto they doubled the warranty and shipped it with a pretty good tune.
The first one has sat here a while I traded off the 2013. Got to wondering if the first one could be fixed. Mailed it off to Dynojet for an evaluation. I should find out in a week or so if it can be repaired. If they can fix it I will pay for the work and give it the person that bought my 2013 from the dealer. It is still married to that bike and of no real use to me.
The second one I have is on the 2016 RGU now Soon I will purchase a new license for it . As for now it still allows me to use everything except a tune.
If you are going to buy a PV why not buy it from someone that gives you better support and twice the warranty?

 

So long story short, I found that my bike was tuned on a dyno with the vacuum plug missing on top of the intake. I often wondered why it seemed to make more of a hissing/intake noise down there but never in a million years thought that was missed.

I replaced the cap and went back to the tuner because the bike seemed to be running a lot hotter. I could feel it more on my right leg and the power vision would show temps of 300-325 degrees and it was a cool night.

When he put it back on the dyno and did a couple of quick runs, we noticed that it was running richer than before. He just put the meter in the back side of the exhaust and didn't attach the wide band O2 sensors. He said he wanted just a quick look. He attached what ever meter to the front plug wire and the bike would hesitate on the dyno. He told me to get that replaced and because of improper firing in the front cylinder, that could make the bike run rich. He said the front plug wire was slightly cracked. I didn't see a crack when I took it off and replaced it. Just some scratch marks on the plug wire which is from where I assume he had the clamp on the wire.

So I've been riding the past few days and it still seems to run really hot in traffic. (80s here in Florida at night) but I would still notice the Power Vision showing temps of above 300 in traffic.

My thought is this...When he tuned it w/out the cap installed I was getting more air into the intake than what would normally come through the S&S Stealth air filter. When he would save the tune on the power vision it would ask to scale or cap. He scaled it and by the end of the tune I noticed that it changed the cubic inches of my 103 to 132.3!

I went out and ran 3 auto tunes (narrow band) over the tune he did and the delta VE numbers on the new tune show from -10 to -26.3. Almost all of the cells I was able to populate on the city streets around here went into the negative quite a bit. That was the front cylinder. The rear cylinder did the same but not as drastic numbers. This leaves me to believe that there was too much air moving through the motors to make the VE tables so high. Is this correct or am I way off base here? I don't know crap about any of this. Just want my bike to run hard and not catch on fire...haha.

The tune he did does run well. Just hot. Highway I'm averaging 40-42 mpg depending if I do 70 or 80 mph. City driving stinks and I get down to about 36 mpg. That is also when it gets really hot. I do have the EITMS turned off for now just to see how hot it would get.

Should I change the tune he did back to 103.3 CI and continue to do more auto tunes until I get down to only about a 5% change in VE tables? Should I leave the CI at 132.3 and continue to auto tune over the top of that?

I know I will only be changing the narrow band settings and I'm okay with that. As the bike sits now, I have 96 HP and 112 TQ. Runs quick and pulls hard. Just want to make sure I'm either not leaving performance on the table somewhere and more importantly that I don't overheat and blow the engine!

Short of wiping the slate clean and getting ANOTHER tune done, what should I do here? Not a lot of guys to choose from in Central Florida for tuning.

I attached the tune he did, Bike Week 2015 along with the auto tune I did over it the other day to see what changes would be made.

 

Please let us know what Dynojet says. Maybe I'm just lucky, but I have had mine for at least 4 years.. on the handlebars all that time and a lot of riding, and it has always behaved.

But FuelMoto is definitely the way to go. Product warranty for sure, but you also get a support team with a PhD in Harley motors and tuning, plus ongoing support for new upgrades you might do.

 

Seems to me, if you had an air leak in the intake, the tune (weather it's a Dyno or Powervision) is going to want to keep adding fuel to hit the AFR set in the tune. Getting more air=need more fuel. So then, you fix the air leak and get it to normal, if you are still using the same tune, it's going to be dumping way more fuel than needed. No way should you be scaled up to 132ci! What temp sensor is that 300' from? Engine Temp? or Head Temp? Please tell me it's not Oil Temp?! In any event it's way hot!

I didn't see the attachment/tune, but seems to me like you are getting the brushoff. The spark plug thing sounds bogus for sure.

It's a PV tune that he did when he Dyno'd it?

I had a fuelpump failure on my bike, and the PV wanted to continually scale up. The fuelpump would flatline at high rpm/throttle.. so the PV constantly wanted to scale up in order to try and get more fuel into the engine. FuelMoto immedieatly identified the issue when they did my 107 build.

If I were you, I'd take the tune you have and change the CI back to 103. Then run an few ATs and if it wants to scale a bit then go with it, as you do have a cammed engine there..., but it shouldn't want to scale past the 110 mark.. no way. And it should finally setlle down and not call for scale or cap.

Give it a try.. it won't hurt. I wouldn't worry too much about your gas mileage.. and I'd take your Dyno numbers with a grain of salt.. Dyno guys can do all sorts of voodoo to make it look good.

I'm no wiz-kid tuner, but I don't think that heat, or the 132CI scale is right at all.

 

Head temps of 300 are normally heck in traffic on a hot day they may hit 360
Anyone tells you different is clueless.