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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
^ JetD- thanks for joining in. Please post up what you do on the final tuning tweaks, could be helpful to have captured here.
I got word from DJ that reducing injector size is not the best approach- As hrdtail78 already filled us in on. just posting another source with same suggestion.
I'll be doing another TT-AT run today with my baseline tune set to 119 CI and VE tables reduced by the same percentage that CIs were increased. This should get me out of the scale/cap window but we'll see. Besides it just gives me another reason to bail the office early and go for a ride.
I have to thank Mac here for giving me an award winning set of spark timing tables and starter VE tables for these cams and TB. that saved me a huge amount of time with putting together a solid baseline tune to work forward from. Also big thanks to Jamie / FM for taking the time to lend advice and answer some technical questions.
JetD, thanks for the advice concerning MLV and MyTune. I plan on using them but first I need to fix my idle issue which is bugging the crap out of me. One cylinder is lean one is rich. The IAC is working okay, I installed new intake gaskets which I checked and don't seem to have an intake leak but will take it to the dealer and have them check it to make sure. So if there is no intake leak and the IAC motor is working properly then I don't know what my next step is.
BTW, the bike runs great on the road pulls better than it ever has. Jamie said after reviewing my 20 min. datalog once I get into closed loop things even out.
JetD, thanks for the advice concerning MLV and MyTune. I plan on using them but first I need to fix my idle issue which is bugging the crap out of me. One cylinder is lean one is rich. The IAC is working okay, I installed new intake gaskets which I checked and don't seem to have an intake leak but will take it to the dealer and have them check it to make sure. So if there is no intake leak and the IAC motor is working properly then I don't know what my next step is.
BTW, the bike runs great on the road pulls better than it ever has. Jamie said after reviewing my 20 min. datalog once I get into closed loop things even out.
got one of these?
if so, warm motor up and don't ignite it just blow propane into the intake area to test for leaks. if there is a leak, you'll find it quickly with no mess. Many folks use spray chemicals but you run a much greater risk of a flash fire with sprayed/flammable chemicals such as carb cleaner, wd-40, etc.
JetD, thanks for the advice concerning MLV and MyTune. I plan on using them but first I need to fix my idle issue which is bugging the crap out of me. One cylinder is lean one is rich. The IAC is working okay, I installed new intake gaskets which I checked and don't seem to have an intake leak but will take it to the dealer and have them check it to make sure. So if there is no intake leak and the IAC motor is working properly then I don't know what my next step is.
BTW, the bike runs great on the road pulls better than it ever has. Jamie said after reviewing my 20 min. datalog once I get into closed loop things even out.
Have you tried manually adjusting the cells in your F/R VE tables idle area? I believe that changing VE 10 points up or down = 1.0 AFR point up or down. I don't know that "ratio" for sure it's just something I read.
Have you tried manually adjusting the cells in your F/R VE tables idle area? I believe that changing VE 10 points up or down = 1.0 AFR point up or down. I don't know that "ratio" for sure it's just something I read.
You can also change values by % percentage. 1%, 5% etc.. and stay within your Closed Loop Lambda range if desired. Thats what I used to smooth some peaks/valleys in my VE tables and not go too far off what AT wanted,
Wrapped up four tuning runs, got through the first three including some freeway with no scale or cap prompts. fourth one nailed me to scale or cap. I saved out both versions to slots in the PV so I could look at them later.
What I did first to begin tuning is let bike warm up, idle, let it tune idle VEs. when those cells are red I'd blip the throttle a bit watching the green screen to hit all of the just off idle areas as well, enough times until those blocks turned red. takes about 1-2 minutes.
Once I got the idle and off idle done I kill engine, export learned, disable AT then re-load the new tune into AT. ride off from there. I do this so at least my idle and off idle are close for the initial ride.
Every time I would complete a 'leg' of tuning ride I would export the learned changes to a slot, disable AT, load new tune back into AT and tune forward from there.
So much for being out of the woods on max VEs. My engine CI scaled from 119 to 126.8 and maxed single VE reduced to 120.
I looked at the capped version and I'm only getting nailed by one single VE on the front right at 15TP and 2500rpm (127.5 maxed out). big spike up right there with adjacent VEs trailing off.
Just got back from the dealer. Good news no intake leak. Bad news what do I do next? LA Dog I will try smoothing out the VEs front to rear. I will start with a five point change then go from there.
What bugs me is this idle stuff started last summer for seemingly no reason.
DDH- Glad to hear no intake leak. I would warm up bike fully (167F or more until you know it is past warmup rpms and into your normal idle rpm) - With the PV screen note your idle MAP kpa and idle rpm.
make a separate tune file- one with idle VEs in that kpa (usually 30-40) and 1000 rpm area set 10 points richer for the lean cylinder (or if you have TP-based VE, it will be the 0tp and 1000rpm VE cell). while the bike is still hot / warmed up, load that tune and see if that brings the cylinder richer. don't mess with the other cylinder do one at a time. if that works you can continue from there and then do the other cylinder. Will be interesting to see if it has any effect and come more inline with your target AFR
Ok, quick question. When I do an autotune (6 so far), I get an output that says, average 1% to -12% change. What is being said here exactly? I dont want to come across as if I dont know what I am doing, and I am not expert by any stretch, but I am not totally lost on this subject either. I honestly do have a good understanding as to what changes I make, and how they affect the tune but I want more I guess. LOL. I mean, my bike runs great, and strong, and cool for that matter, but how do I know there isnt a little bit more in there I can get out of it.....? Its the same as chasing that elusive "tick" or "clatter" in the top end! LOL...I digress, I recently installed a rocker-locking kit on my top end, and it immediately quietened things down tremendously, but last night as I was riding, I noticed a tiny, short clatter noise at the end of decel, right before reaching idle...and it wasnt there before....SOOOO.. In the name of being cautious, I will be pulling the rocker box cover off again tonight, just to make sure nothing has worked itself loose...ugh..LOL.. I have every plan this winter to pull the topend off completely and have it reworked (guides, valve job, springs, etc) but I need it to make it through the summer and fall.. I know, I am preaching to the choir here.. LOL
Sorry for the long winded post..
Glen
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