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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
Some of the new tables look pretty self explanatory and have to do with timing adjustments for certain events such as different temperature rises, including head temp, air temp, and intake temp. Instead of retarding the timing tables you can change the timing through these tables. It looks like you can play with these separately without messing up your tune. (kind of more user friendly)
The other tables exposed will need to be explained to me more but it's nice to be able to see them. Anyways the upgrade and upgraded map didn't have any adverse effects and works great. I don't see any reason that anyone should not upgrade to the latest firmware.
I have a PCV on my 103 street glide, a torque cam and free flowing A/C. Had the bike tuned last year and it runs great until....
Bike was tuned with outdoor temps in the 80's. Bike runs great as long as the temperatures stay low. But yesterday, the outside temperature was 97 and the bike started losing power. Harder to pull away at stop lights and overall, not as responsive. Is there any adjustments I can make to "adjust" for this hotter temperature. My oil gauge was at least 20 degrees hotter than normal. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I have a PCV on my 103 street glide, a torque cam and free flowing A/C. Had the bike tuned last year and it runs great until....
Bike was tuned with outdoor temps in the 80's. Bike runs great as long as the temperatures stay low. But yesterday, the outside temperature was 97 and the bike started losing power. Harder to pull away at stop lights and overall, not as responsive. Is there any adjustments I can make to "adjust" for this hotter temperature. My oil gauge was at least 20 degrees hotter than normal. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Very likely something can be done. Would have to see the map first. My suspicion would be it is either too lean in the low cruise area or the timing is too slow or likely both. Would also need to know which cam and exhaust you have. Lot of torque cams out there. I would also make sure you don't have a vacuum leak on intake to head seal or the vacuum cap missing. Most likely tuned too lean and timing too slow.
Very likely something can be done. Would have to see the map first. My suspicion would be it is either too lean in the low cruise area or the timing is too slow or likely both. Would also need to know which cam and exhaust you have. Lot of torque cams out there. I would also make sure you don't have a vacuum leak on intake to head seal or the vacuum cap missing. Most likely tuned too lean and timing too slow.
I would hope the bike isn't too lean. I lost 5 MPG when the cam was installed. If the bike ran like is does when the ambient temps are in the 70's, I would have no issues. As for the timing, I already have reversion going on with the longer opening. So I need to advance the timing? All ranges or just in certain throttle ranges?
I would hope the bike isn't too lean. I lost 5 MPG when the cam was installed. If the bike ran like is does when the ambient temps are in the 70's, I would have no issues. As for the timing, I already have reversion going on with the longer opening. So I need to advance the timing? All ranges or just in certain throttle ranges?
I am referring to the PCV tune and not the bike tune. You can be lean in an area such as low speed and it will cause it to run hot and have very little to do with MPG. Low speed area on the PCV is 0 to 10 Throttle position and idle to 2500 rpms. The addition of cams does require less fuel in the Low speed area as the reversion action decreases the efficiency of the engine there. The cruise area is 10 to 20 throttle position and from 1800 to 3000 rpms. With or without cams the cruise area is not really changed much with addition of cams. Therefore if you still maintain your riding habits with cams as you did without cams and they are drop in cams, then it should get same or sometimes even better mpg. Usually the cams addition cause lot more movement in the right wrist. I know it does on me. The area above 20 TP up with cams usually requires good bit more fuel to get the response and power.
The spark advance plays into all this too. If the low cruise area is too low it will add to the heat problem. If too high it will make the bike sound like it is misfiring and may get little rough. If too low in cruise area will mostly lower MPG and run little more heat. If too much can cause ping on quick throttle movement. The factory map in cruise area is usually fairly close. In the area above 20 TP and above 2000 rpms the factory maps are usually pretty well there. If you get too much timing in WOT area it will actually hurt performance as the Ion sensing will cause the timing to back off. The factory settings there are pretty close too. The area below 2000 but above 20 TP can benefit from additional timing some. Helps the lowspeed roll on. Will also cause spark knock if too much timing and not enough fuel. Again all this is for the PCV and are not meant to be a challenge to anyones thinking.
Great stuff and spot on. When I looked at the map from my tuner, there was a large area in the 10-20% range with negative numbers. Would I be assuming too much to say that when the engine was cold and still in "choke" mode, the bike, of course ran great?
I don't expect my SG to perform like my old rice burners but do find it depressing that the I can see the "potential" of what the engine/cams can do. With that said, I do find myself twisting the wick at times, as it puts a wry smile on my face.....
I will take your advice and let you know how it goes in the next few weeks.
Thanks a ton for the info!
Hey Guys,
Quick question. You folks with the fly by wire setup can adjust auto tune to not record under certain map kpa.
Anyone know how to do this with throttle cable (tps) ? I don't want it to adjust under 20 % throttle. It's a problem area that I can try to fix manually.
Hey Guys,
Quick question. You folks with the fly by wire setup can adjust auto tune to not record under certain map kpa.
Anyone know how to do this with throttle cable (tps) ? I don't want it to adjust under 20 % throttle. It's a problem area that I can try to fix manually.
Thanks in advance
Not an autotune guru, but if you do find TP you would want to make it maybe 10% or less. 20% is above cruise. I think you can select like 20 or 30% map and it will work fine. All throttle by wire don't use Map only, some have Map VE and TP VE's which is selectable. The autotune can use Map to determine the load with Throttle cable bikes or TBW bikes. I know on Data Logs you can see Throttle Position and Map on either bike. The DATA LOG data is what the Autotune uses.
Went for a quick ride the other evening after I spent some time adjusting my tuner's map. As stated earlier, everything below the 20TP was negative numbers and I had a tough time shifting smoothly as the engine seemed like it was trying to find idle. My guess is the tuner had issues with some decel pop. Anyway, the shifts are very smooth now, so changes are working. It is supposed to get into the 80's this weekend, so I'll put some miles on her and see how the the engine performs throughout the entire throttle range.
Not an autotune guru, but if you do find TP you would want to make it maybe 10% or less. 20% is above cruise. I think you can select like 20 or 30% map and it will work fine. All throttle by wire don't use Map only, some have Map VE and TP VE's which is selectable. The autotune can use Map to determine the load with Throttle cable bikes or TBW bikes. I know on Data Logs you can see Throttle Position and Map on either bike. The DATA LOG data is what the Autotune uses.
Thank you sir,
I'm having a little trouble at low tps and lower rpm (below 1800) where it wants to cap or scale. The rest of the map is pretty stable with the ve's not exceeding 120. I lower the ve's in the problem area but auto tune puts it back. I am pretty sure it's a reversion problem messing with me. I still have a few more tuning runs needed in other places and just want it to ignore the problem areas for now.
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