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Ok 4 yrs back bought a 1973 Ironhead. She ran good until now,,,,she is smokin bad on front cylinder and has a small jerk while in 2nd and 4th gear. Im think maybe just do a top end overhaul new pistons maybe 10 or 20 over. What do you think the skipping in the tranny is. What all should I replace on a Top End. From what I was told the bottom end on the Ironhead series is bulletproof is this correct? What carb is best for my 73.
Just what do you mean by 'small jerk' in 2nd and 4th?
As for the oil burning problem, you may have a scored piston as well as worn valve guides. A top end job including boring, new pistons and whatever the heads will require will fix that. You have to pull it apart first to determine what you are going to need.
Regarding a lower end being bulletproof; I do not think so. The rods have roller bearings and with proper lubrication these will run a good many miles. They do eventually wear out however.
Tat......you may want to pull the primary cover off and have a look inside. I do not know what could cause a 'slipping clutch' effect inside the transmission. What you find there is a broken tooth on a gear which leaves you with a constant clunking in that particular gear.
Inside the primary, make sure the engine compensating sprocket nut is tight and make sure the clutch hub is tight. These two items would affect the ride in all of the gears though, not just 2nd and 4th. So, I am at a loss as to what may be the cause of this.
Maybe another member has a suggestion.
Hi I'm new in here, but to the point. Bended shift fork is also my bet. Good option for carb is change EVO's CV replacing your old wornout Keihin butterfly... here is one from my friends webpage
The old Sportys run better with an S&S carb. Set em and forget em. Best carbs for any bike, IMHO. Go to the All-Harley drags and you'll see that 99% of the bikes run them. They are a very simple design and are very reliable. I haven't had to touch mine in over 4 years.... still running great! I've used them on dozens of bikes and the performance and reliability can't be beat. The newer models are even better since they have an extra fuel circuit to tune.
As for the "slipping", I agree about the shifter forks. You can pull the tranny apart and rebuild it checking all the clearances while you are at it. It might need new shims, too. Just follow your FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL (not those crappy Haynes books) and it's an easy job.
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