72 ironhead questions
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: se ohio
those dowls are not the end of the world, when it comes time to put the trans back in i use some grease to hold them in the race, just make sure you have them all, cant remember how many there are right now,i just did my trans last fall it to was stuck in gear turned out to be a broken spring in the shifter paw assy. went ahead and changed the pawls, and all the springs works perfect, so look it over real good before you start taking it apart!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
well its all out BUT the mainshaft came out with the tranny. 23 of these lil dowl pins came out also. what a freaking nitemare!!!!!! the shaft for the shifter doesnt look as its bent. im about ready for miller time!!!!! also no offense takn on last post. the more help i get the better. best to do it right
Now the nightmare awaits you.......... installing it back in the case.
Here is how it usually goes:
You replace all 23 rollers in the race.
Then you take the transmission door with mainshaft and install it back in the case.
You get it started but it is a bit canted to one side....... so you pull back on the door just a little, then press forward and the door goes in place.
WHAT YOU DO NOT KNOW HAS HAPPENED...... some of the rollers have fallen out and are now laying in the bottom of the case. You go ahead and install the door because you cannot see the rollers that have fallen out. Later they could get caught between the gear teeth and there goes your crankcases.
Sorry for the horror story but I just want to make you aware of how to install the rollers and not have any fall out.
Not now but rather when the time comes to install the transmission, do the following:
Put some light grease on the rollers and install all 23 back in the race. Count them as you go, as there must be 23.
Next take 3 pieces of all thread rod about 6 to 8 inches long.
Thread these into 3 of the holes where the bolts hold the door.
Now with you trans door in hand, place the all thread through the bolt holes on the door. Smoothly move the door toward the case. You may have to wiggle things a bit to get everything falling into place but it is not hard to do this.
THE MAIN THING NOT TO DO IS PULL BACK ON THE DOOR! This will cause the bearings to come out.
Just keep pressing forward until the door gets to the dowel pins. Then bump the door onto the pins with a rubber mallet, remove the all thread rods and install the 4 bolts for the door.
You will also have to align the **** on the shifter shaft with the trans parts but I have a trick for doing that when the time comes. Just let me know when you are ready.
pg
Novice
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Fla/Mich
72 Sportster
Hello All,
For what its worth the best bang for the buck regarding points and condenser is what was/is sold for the old Chevy/GM 6 cylinder car/truck motor. I never ever had a failure. They will work in the XL's and Shovels. Later. Tom
For what its worth the best bang for the buck regarding points and condenser is what was/is sold for the old Chevy/GM 6 cylinder car/truck motor. I never ever had a failure. They will work in the XL's and Shovels. Later. Tom
Novice
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Fla/Mich
72 Ironhead
Wizard, no offense intended but by the sounds of things you have went way past your ability to find the problem! The guys here can give you plenty of ideas on why for but its time you found yourself someone who can hands on help you get your XL back in shape. Also in my years in business working with XL's if one came in that was in the condition such as yours it meant one thing and one thing only, complete and total rebuild of both engine and trans, no exceptions, no cobbling, I stuck by this rule and no matter how the customer grumbled they went away a happy biker in the end!
Now I am not saying you are not capable but its going to take some serious studying of the "Bible" and a Parts Catalog to get things back to proper ways, read, study the pics, and learn what each part looks like when new, then have a good understanding of what each part does. Have fun and enjoy yourself and I do not beleive there's such a thing as a dumb question..maybe a dumb answer now and then lol just remember it's a big learning curve so take your time and if you aren't sure...ask! Tom
Now I am not saying you are not capable but its going to take some serious studying of the "Bible" and a Parts Catalog to get things back to proper ways, read, study the pics, and learn what each part looks like when new, then have a good understanding of what each part does. Have fun and enjoy yourself and I do not beleive there's such a thing as a dumb question..maybe a dumb answer now and then lol just remember it's a big learning curve so take your time and if you aren't sure...ask! Tom
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
Wizard, no offense intended but by the sounds of things you have went way past your ability to find the problem! The guys here can give you plenty of ideas on why for but its time you found yourself someone who can hands on help you get your XL back in shape. Also in my years in business working with XL's if one came in that was in the condition such as yours it meant one thing and one thing only, complete and total rebuild of both engine and trans, no exceptions, no cobbling, I stuck by this rule and no matter how the customer grumbled they went away a happy biker in the end!
Now I am not saying you are not capable but its going to take some serious studying of the "Bible" and a Parts Catalog to get things back to proper ways, read, study the pics, and learn what each part looks like when new, then have a good understanding of what each part does. Tom
Now I am not saying you are not capable but its going to take some serious studying of the "Bible" and a Parts Catalog to get things back to proper ways, read, study the pics, and learn what each part looks like when new, then have a good understanding of what each part does. Tom
Wizard is making a good effort to learn how to fix his machine. he hasn't mentioned yet about taking it to a shop.
None of us are born with the knowledge, we all have to learn.
Finding a competent 'hands on' helper well versed in ironhead mechanics? Ha-Ha, give me a break. That is a good way to spend a lot of money.
And finally, how do you evaluate the condition of Wizard's machine from looking at a photograph and deem it as needing a complete rebuild? That's laughable.
Again, no offense meant, but the idea around here is to offer help......... so if you have something technical to add, let's hear it.
I hate to have to tell you this, but I have done so.
pg
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
From:
you both have good view points on matters. dont know how bad i wanted to take this to a shop......... but have stopped myself from doing so. dont wanna get raped! i would love to find someone with hands on with my style of bike, BUT again no one likes to stop by to even show me where to begin. its always yea ill stop by later or stop by tomorrow.
in my sense i feel more accomplised by NOT going to a shop. makes this more of my own work, with ALOT of help from this group of coarse. gotta give credit where credit is do!
i do have a factory manual that i have been reading all morning on this tranny issue. i also use the clymer ONLY for the photos. im more of a show me person then reading but the post have helped me out alot. i havnt touched anything today yet. little gun shy right now to even touch the tranny. ive looked at it and cant really see anything wrong but i also havent taken anything apart yet.
as for the bike itself, damn near might as well say its all rebuilt minus the deep inside engine work. i owe that all to this group.
pinion im gonna have to dedicate a day on my calender for all your help you have given me! a BIG THANK YOU goes out to you!!!!!
in my sense i feel more accomplised by NOT going to a shop. makes this more of my own work, with ALOT of help from this group of coarse. gotta give credit where credit is do!
i do have a factory manual that i have been reading all morning on this tranny issue. i also use the clymer ONLY for the photos. im more of a show me person then reading but the post have helped me out alot. i havnt touched anything today yet. little gun shy right now to even touch the tranny. ive looked at it and cant really see anything wrong but i also havent taken anything apart yet.
as for the bike itself, damn near might as well say its all rebuilt minus the deep inside engine work. i owe that all to this group.
pinion im gonna have to dedicate a day on my calender for all your help you have given me! a BIG THANK YOU goes out to you!!!!!
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Pinon will get You though it,He has done this many a time. Just dont get discouraged,take your time and read.Its great You have a camera..that's real handy.And,when You get Her going,You will know it inside out,and have a great sence of accomplishment!
What state are You in..city?
What state are You in..city?
Last edited by 70Weight; May 15, 2010 at 08:13 PM.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
My suggestion is to start by getting the transmission back in and getting it to shift. After that you can move on to getting the cams back in and all the other stuff. Just do one thing at a time.....and do it correctly. Then move on to the next.
Referencing the pic of the diagram I posted earlier:
For the transmission I recommend you not take anymore apart than you have to. Look at the condition of the pawls (item 9A) and the condition of the slots in the shifter cam plate (item 5). Also look at the pawl carrier (item 6A) to make sure it is in good condition.
If all that looks OK then put it back together. I mentioned earlier about doing this making sure the bearing rollers do not fall out. Pay heed to that.
Also, the tip about getting the shifter lever arm shaft positioned correctly is this:
Orient the **** end of the shifter shaft (item 17) to the correct horizontal position. Then attach the shift lever to the shaft with the lever pointing down towards the ground. This holds the shaft in position while you install the trans attached to the door.
The factory manual will describe how to assemble the trans and put it in the case. If you have any questions or problems just ask before you force something.
pg
Referencing the pic of the diagram I posted earlier:
For the transmission I recommend you not take anymore apart than you have to. Look at the condition of the pawls (item 9A) and the condition of the slots in the shifter cam plate (item 5). Also look at the pawl carrier (item 6A) to make sure it is in good condition.
If all that looks OK then put it back together. I mentioned earlier about doing this making sure the bearing rollers do not fall out. Pay heed to that.
Also, the tip about getting the shifter lever arm shaft positioned correctly is this:
Orient the **** end of the shifter shaft (item 17) to the correct horizontal position. Then attach the shift lever to the shaft with the lever pointing down towards the ground. This holds the shaft in position while you install the trans attached to the door.
The factory manual will describe how to assemble the trans and put it in the case. If you have any questions or problems just ask before you force something.
pg
Last edited by piniongear; May 16, 2010 at 10:42 AM.