I have the race series pump and plate in my '18 120". It sumped once prior to the install. I have beat the hell out of it since trying to get it to sump and I have not been able to. I believe the issue is solved with their solution. Time will tell, as always.

 

Yes, it was a limp home mode situation. They had a factory tech come out and they found incorrect pin connectors installed in the throttle body plug in the bike's wiring harness. Once the new pins and plug housing were installed, the problem was fixed. I now have 6500 miles on my new bike since all this happened.

 

ive been rideing my 18 RKS like I stole it sense break in and everything is fine as frogs hair. Iissues I've read about seem to be related to the 114 and 117 as far as sumping.

 

Why did HD void your warranty on a new bike?

 

The current service bulletins from H-D clearly state that sumping can occur in all stock M8 motors. It is more commonly seen in motors run at higher rpm, which would be more common in bikes that the owners bought for "performance".

 

 

Sad to hear.

 

I may have just joined the club...

First up - I love the bike (2018 CVO SG) and understand "**** happens" - dealer has been helpful and we'll see how this goes. Just sharing my experience for those interested. And looking forward to quick resolution and getting back on the road...

Picked-up the bike on May 29th. First 750 miles were trouble-free. Generally riding locally, ordinarily running steadily between low 2k and low 3k RPMs... I run through the gears in easy fashion (shifting at 3.5k~4.5k RPMs) . I may have hit the rev-limiter one time during a spirited, interstate merge but overall I have been cruising casually. Longest day was three-hours in the saddle, covering about 120 miles on local county roads.

Decided to commute with the bike this past Monday. 55 miles each way, and morning route was on the interstate for about half of the ride, cruising most of the way in 5th or 6th gear at 70~80mph. Return commute I decided to take the county roads back. Local riding, with a bit or "stop and go" along the way. This is where the problem started...

I noticed a change in power and exhaust tone. The bike previously had seat-sliding / neck-snapping power. Now I've got a significantly flatter power-curve. Nothing as bad as some folks have reported (I can still get along at highway speed), but clearly way, way less power than before. Also noticed a significantly higher amount of heat beneath me.

I remembered the EITMS feature and wondered if this kicked-in. Oil-pressure indication is good and outside temp is about 83 degrees. I pulled-over to take a look at the manual - I see it kicks-in at idle and kicks off as soon as the bike starts moving again. Perhaps it's stuck on? I disable the feature and give the bike 10 mins to cool down a bit. Did not change the situation. I had a stop to make on the way home that provided another 30 min break - still no change. Got home and parked with a significant smell of burning oil.

Checked the oil in the AM and found it a bit over a QT low. Previously checked oil at about 500 miles and was in range of normal. Called the dealer and described the issue. They said to bring it right in and they would check it out. They claimed it "does sound like it could be sumping" (they called it a "transfer issue" I believe). Dealer also indicated they've only seen one bike with this issue thus far. They asked me to let the bike idle for 10 min and recheck the oil. Did that - no change. I rode it over yesterday afternoon and the ride started out with more power, but still a different exhaust tone. About 20 mins in the power faded considerably.

So that's the story at the moment - currently waiting on their diagnosis - will share more as I learn more...

 

 

Yep - and I specifically asked. On a related note, oil pressure indicator said "OK" all the way there...