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I'm on semi-hold while I deal with getting the registration fixed. Need a trip to the CHP.
There was a Linkert Mod M carb in a box along with misc additional parts that came with the 65 Pan that I recently bought. It was pretty cruddy but after some ultrasonic cleaning brushing the corrosion off, it cleaned up reasonably well.
Was using it for practice to see how the ultrasonic cleaner worked. Still thinking about buying Gunk Carb dip.
ET's are something I dont experiment with, I go with what the manufacturer suggests as most of my stuff is stock and if the bike doesn't have a drivability concern then I leave well enough alone.
Different tubes displace different amounts of fuel in the well which determines how much air is introduced and emulsified with the fuel. I've found on the same model Weber's that the ET's vary from the factory depending on market such as Europe vs North America. Some of that is emissions, cam selection and some of that is due to the fuel availability.
As for the float valves the one is probably the Taiwan replacement. For whatever reason (quality I guess) the OEM valves dont bind but the repops do so I reuse the oem valves in my rebuilds.
I would always go to a linkert before anything else IF that is what the machine came with - all the way back to the 20s shribler carb - its a 3 kick cold with todays gas until the engine is broken in 6 months to a year - then it in some cases becomes a 1 or 2 kick cold and 1 hot all the time
the thin pin has been replaced with the 3 sided flat large - i like it better it seems to keep the bowl full compare to the other but the other was around 60 70 years
today with correction camshafts for the fuel we now use AND - the original float was brass and sank quickly with just a touch of internal seepage - today we have the rubber ducky float <nbits the deal hands down - and for plummmer intake fittings we have peek plastic seals as the original brass was soft today the brass is hard as a rock and you can’t stop it from seeping air in - then the fuel petcock from carls MC the thief - he mods a cheap china petcock and uses a peek tip on the petcock end tip and it really does the job - the thief part is he wants 200 bucks for the petcock that is a 4o dollar unit a a buck worth of peek
the tube hole count is all about the engine performance as well as the 2 bottom holes for starting - and as well as the side screw at the throttle blade this is the other side of the low speed holes and the side slot is the sip for the low speed fuel pull for starting - the mod we do is only for a kicker bike and only if needed its a one way thing - caution - you could picture that slot i can tell if its been destroyed as lots of effen morons owned or worked on those carbs
throttle shaft bushings removal is a tap into the he steel bush tap out and replace one at a time and new shaft and top spring a bit of machine screws purple loc tite is ok for throttle blade - picture up and ask i can help in the right direction
An edit to the previous post. With oxygenated fuels today I wonder about the ET choices but have yet to find a need to experiment, jetting changes seems to cover my needs so far. If I wanted to experiment it's unlikely there would be something off the shelf that would address today's fuel formulations where they say hey use these tubes in your Pan if you live in this country blah blah blah. It would come down to filling in holes with solder and lots of road testing.
Interesting stuff guys.. I plan to stay with the stock carb. This one is not in bad shape. The float needle and seat are in excellent shape. The throttle shaft is still tight even after cleaning out the bushings. There is another Mod M on the bike that I expect is newer as the last owner likely replaced the carb in the picture due to the bike sitting for some time..
I was kind of more interested in which of parts was more original.. It sounds like the round one.. The float needle with the flat sides is actually square. I was hoping that the carb was unmolested. The float needle appears original but it may have been replaced as the a second round needle was worn ..
The has a rubber covered float ring..
As far as emulsion tubes go, I'm real far from ever even messing with them.
Getting the bike running need to come before but plan to do the wheels and brakes first.. On the rear everything needs replacing, brake shoes, master, slave, probably the hose / tubing. The front has a custom chrome banana caliper and later wheel.. I'll be able to rebuild the caliper but the master and hose are getting replaced. Looks like the
John, You say the later fittings (ferrules?) are brass are rock hard.. What about annealing them? They probably got work hardened when machined.
If you want the intake to leave you alone put peeks in it - today the brass is total junk and does not even fit up nice
turn the carb around the correct number for a 1965 is a 74B very simple and easy to tune - its not anything but simple - 1/12 turns out low speed the one connected to the choke lever - find adjustments is in to lean the small clicks of the ball on the needle top 3 will change it from rich to not being rich and 2 1/2 to start is hii speed ‘’
we take it out 3rd gear at 35 turn it full throttle and see what it does is it stumbles its rich 3 clicks clockwise will change it do it again - drive it running ok 3 days then look at the plugs black porcelain 3 clicks hi speed and ride it again 3 days - its a hands on machine and you will get that tuning it - small steps are the deal
the low speed and the hi speed are more involved with each other then a regular carb - it is a balance between the two and once you get it you will love the carb on the fly worth extream weather differences can be changed on the fly couple of clicks
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Linkert Mod M questions
