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Primary/Transmission/Driveline/ClutchFind answers to general powertrain, primary and transmission. Have clutch issues and need suggestions? Post them here.
I would like to install a Harley brand part # 36808-05reduced effort clutch on my 1999 Ultra Classic 88 twin cam. At least I thought I would. I plan to do it myself. But I have read some posts on here that think it makes your clutch slip. I don't want that to happen. You wouldn't think that would be the case since they are using them on the newer models. One guy didn't even think it helped much.I have small hands and could sure use the reduce effort. I'm not a hard rider. But do like to get on the bike a little. Let me hear what you guys experience has been and any tips you can give me. Do you have to remove the left side exhaust to remove the outer primary cover. Thanks
I installed one on my broinlaws '05 Road King.I had to remoove the exhaust from the right side to get to the tranny cover and had to remove the the primary cover to get the spring in.
The clutch did not slip.Most people say the clucth could slip if the engine is not stock.
I installed one on my 2004 Superglide 2 weeks ago, which is not exactly stock. The 88" has been hopped up 95" and even wound out, nothing has slipped. The reduction in pull effort is notceable and worth the effort to put it in. Aside from having to remove the primary and transmission side cover,which can be messy, the actual install is straight forward, a 1-2 hour job tops.
I have been installing the reduced effort kit on all my bro's bike as well as on my own. I do it a little different though. I only use the ramp out of the kit for the release side but I add the "White Bros" easy pull clutch on the cable $15. A little grinding of the bracket makes it perfect. Then I purchased the S.E. clutch spring#37951-98 for $25. That can be installed thru the derby cover, you don't have to take the outer primary cover off. You see my bike is an '06 and came stock with the reduced effort kit. After going to 100+ H.P. 95" my clutch wouldn't hold. So adding the S.E. spring first tightened my lever. Adding the "White Bros" kit made it easier than before the spring change. All my bros run heavy clutches but with my kit it feels wimpier than a stock '06. Making burn outs and hole shots real easy to control. Just something to chew on to help you decide.
I have been installing the reduced effort kit on all my bro's bike as well as on my own. I do it a little different though. I only use the ramp out of the kit for the release side but I add the "White Bros" easy pull clutch on the cable $15. A little grinding of the bracket makes it perfect. Then I purchased the S.E. clutch spring#37951-98 for $25. That can be installed thru the derby cover, you don't have to take the outer primary cover off. You see my bike is an '06 and came stock with the reduced effort kit. After going to 100+ H.P. 95" my clutch wouldn't hold. So adding the S.E. spring first tightened my lever. Adding the "White Bros" kit made it easier than before the spring change. All my bros run heavy clutches but with my kit it feels wimpier than a stock '06. Making burn outs and hole shots real easy to control. Just something to chew on to help you decide.
And to think I was going to add something new! +1 on that White Bros. kit. Roland Sands / Performance Machine make one too. Might bea nice addition while you're at it.
Just change the ramps that come in the kit, but not the clutch spring. The spring that is included in the kit has less tension than the stock spring. The stock spring is fine for stock or mildly ugraded motors. If you decide to change the clutch spring, go with the Screamin' Eagle.
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