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"I was afraid the medallion would have to come off, but the old pad just unscrewed after I removed the lower clip."
Aha!!! So that's how it comes off...I have the exact same sissy bar/pad/medallion and tried to remove the pad. Took the lower clip off and the pad was still "fastened". Thought I would have to remove the medallion (which I did not want to do).
Thanks for the info.
Glad I could help. I will look into powder coating, thanks.
Originally Posted by Redrodyankneck
I've replaced the clutch purchase on my 81 and 83. Since the pivot pin for the CLUTCHLEVER is steel against aluminum with no bushing, elongating of the purchase seems in inevitable. What's your secret.
I would say lubrication - the pin on mine was very dry and rusty
I've replaced the clutch purchase on my 81 and 83. Since the pivot pin for the CLUTCHLEVER is steel against aluminum with no bushing, elongating of the purchase seems in inevitable. What's your secret.
i lube the pin with some grease every service, which is every 2500 miles as per the FSM...thats about all you can do....ive seen them wear on other bikes with the same set up . its one of those pesky little jobs that are often overlooked and if you dont do them, you suffer the consequences.
I bought a Harbor Freight powder coating kit but they didn't have semi-gloss powder, so I'm on the hunt. I will soda blast everything and give them a good heating in the oven to drive out any oil or brake fluid the parts washer didn't remove. I saw that done on one of the shows on Motor Trend TV.
Disassembly of the master cylinder was straight forward, including removing the sight glass:
The piston and seals looked like new because the previous owner had it rebuilt just before he sold it to me.
I drained some of the fluid into a small glass of water to confirm it was DOT5. DOT 3/4 dissolve in water.
Then I took apart the calipers plus a spare I bought to replace one that had damage near the mounting bolt nut.
Unfortunately I bought the wrong side so I'll use the broken one.
The original paint looks like texture paint, so I won't powder coat them. I should still bake the old silicone brake fluid out of them so I don't get fish-eyes.
[edit: I just bought some semi-gloss powder for the controls and Harley fine texture powder for the calipers.]
I bought some from Rick's Decals. I'm not sure how to remove the old ones though.
sir, I have been restoring an 82 FXR as well. The previous owner put forward controls on it and I am trying to switch back to miss. Unfortunately I cannot find the Inner Shift Lever that goes through the primary. The part number (34621-82) I keep getting referred to the incorrect part number because it is not self sealing and too narrow for the hole in the primary. Are you able to see yours or help me out with this?
I very much appreciate the help!
sir, I have been restoring an 82 FXR as well. The previous owner put forward controls on it and I am trying to switch back to miss. Unfortunately I cannot find the Inner Shift Lever that goes through the primary. The part number (34621-82) I keep getting referred to the incorrect part number because it is not self sealing and too narrow for the hole in the primary. Are you able to see yours or help me out with this?
I very much appreciate the help!
Respectfully,
Garrett
I am not sure what you are saying is the problem, but there are a few 34621-82 on ebay now. Here is what mine looks like:
Originally Posted by Architect
I would hit those stickers with a heat gun to remove them. They should be metal backed for that year.
Brake calipers have more of a wrinkle black finish. We used to just use rattle can wrinkle paint on them, maybe not perfect but close enough.
Good idea on the heat gun. Yes the calipers look to be Harley Texture Black, not wrinkle black. I found powder that claims to match, will see soon. I have used texture paint on my dash console and it looks perfect.
[QUOTE=Joe12RK;20465930]I am not sure what you are saying is the problem, but there are a few 34621-82 on ebay now. Here is what mine looks like:
Thank you very much for the picture, that is extremely helpful. I ordered the 34621-82 part because every diagram I look at tells me that is the correct number. If you look at it online, it is not the same as yours. What you have is the exact part I need to find, and have had ZERO luck sourcing one.
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