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The little plastic tube could be leftovers from an evap setup for the fuel system that got pulled off at some point. Where I've seen those before and the VOES vac lines.
Maybe it came off the S&S carb that was on the bike? The Keihin drain tube is horizontal towards the manifold, the bends on this one wouldn’t work. Thanks
I’m going to spend more time on the rear brake today, but the parts are looking good. Powder coated them with the same texture black as the front. That stuff is very forgiving for beginners. First strip the old paint and soda blast the parts.
The powder is dull grey when sprayed. Had to plug up all the holes.
Out of the oven on the cooling rack.
I filed the tops of the caliper’s decorative cooling fins. The chrome circle will go on last. Interesting tidbit that the caliper is made by Girling, known for British cars and bikes. I also painted the new pads with black header paint.
Lots of progress today. Rebuilt and installed the rear caliper and master cylinder.
I also cleaned up the fluid reservoir but the brass insert for one of the cap screws came out. I am soaking it in Kroil and will install it later. I can't install the pads until the wheel and disk are there. I cleaned and zinc plated the plunger and adjustment screw. Notice the plunger doesn't have a clip on it to support the spring, a cupped washer goes there. Late '82 got the updated part.I still have to polish the brake pedal and will wait to install all this after the motor goes in.
Wouldn't be from an S&S, used numerous versions never seen a tube with them.
Old fuel system EPA evaporative plumbing leftover is what it looks like to me. They had a couple feet of it & vacuum lines with the big black charcoal canister. Can't remember if that just a Cali thing or not.
My motor is off the shelf and on the shop mechanic's workbench now! Shouldn't be long before he gets seriously into it. Woo hoo!
Meanwhile I started on the wheels. It took me an hour and a half to disassemble the front by carefully unscrewing the spoke nipples. Even then half a dozen broke off. I had considered cleaning and re-plating them, but that option is out.
The rear wheel wasn't going any easier, so I brought out the cutoff wheel and was done in five minutes, haha.
First cleaning, will disassemble and get them ready for paint or polish:
I measured the rear wheel end play, it is 0.012", which is pretty good, within the 0.004-0.018" specified. Shouldn't need a new spacer even with new bearings.
The front was tight, barely 0.001", but maybe the old grease is throwing off the reading, it hardly moved. I will do both again after I disassemble them.
Are you going to go with stainless steel spokes and nipples?
Yes, I think so. I'll have to blast them to make them look like originals. I think Buchanan offers this service too. First I am going to look for good OEM wheels at a swap meet next Sunday.
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