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Pushrod help pls

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Old May 6, 2024 | 03:58 PM
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Default Pushrod help pls

Ok. First, I have the manual. 😁
I'm trying to install new pushrods after motor rebuild 76 FXE. These are new rods but they are different from the oem rods that looked like someone used vice grips to tighten. The thread pitch is 24tpi. Instructions say 3 turns equal 4 turns of stock oem rods. So I removed and cleaned tappets and hydraulic units. They are completely dry other than a light coat of lube and back in the bike. Front lifters are at lowest point and the hydraulic units are collapsed but spring is Not compressed yet. Book says if dry install rods and compress spring to 0 lash then turn up 1 3/4 turns? If wet turn 4 turns exactly. Sooo if I'm correct I'm doing the dry method but I don't understand what the turn up 1 3/4 means and my rods are 24tpi. Can someone help me out with this?

This is what pushrods instructions say:

 
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Old May 6, 2024 | 04:43 PM
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It means tighten it down to zero lash and then back off the adjustment by 1 3/4 turns, thus giving you the correct lash.
 
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Old May 6, 2024 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Spanners39
It means tighten it down to zero lash and then back off the adjustment by 1 3/4 turns, thus giving you the correct lash.
ok. Zero lash is really easy to find on other bikes ive had but this one is real tricky for some reason.. way too much play in the spring. I extend the rod until I have no up and down and no side to side but then when I start snugging it down for the actual count feels way too tight to me but I don't have a lot of experience with this motor. Thanks.
 
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Old May 6, 2024 | 09:11 PM
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fit solid lifters, much easier, and cheap to do.
 
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Old May 6, 2024 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Timberjkd
ok. Zero lash is really easy to find on other bikes ive had but this one is real tricky for some reason.. way too much play in the spring. I extend the rod until I have no up and down and no side to side but then when I start snugging it down for the actual count feels way too tight to me but I don't have a lot of experience with this motor. Thanks.
Dry is not zero lash, it is bottomed out and then back off 1 3/4 turns, you are following both sets of instructions.
 

Last edited by Spanners39; May 7, 2024 at 12:15 AM.
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Old May 7, 2024 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Spanners39
Dry is not zero lash, it is bottomed out and then back off 1 3/4 turns, you are following both sets of instructions.
just wondering if adjustments the same with dry and wet lifters
 
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Old May 7, 2024 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by john lee
just wondering if adjustments the same with dry and wet lifters
It isn't and the manual tells you this...dry is bottom out and back off (loosen)1 3/4 turns, wet is 4 turns tighter past 0 lash.
 
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Old May 8, 2024 | 09:45 AM
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DRY = Lifter Spring just fully compressed then loosen 1 3/4 turns putting lifter in sweet spot for hydraulic cushion

WET = Pushrod adjusted to just touch with zero lash the socket of the lifter without compressing lifter spring then 4 more turns down putting lifter in sweet spot for hydraulic cushion.

If using wet method be sure you wait 15 minutes after each adjustment to let hydraulic pressure bleed off the lifter you adjusted before rotating engine


Personally, I like WET method best because i struggle to know for sure where the lifter is fully collapsed before adjusting back up.

tpi is threads per inch. your aftermarket pushrods are 24 tpi or 24 threads per inch. your stock pushrods were 32 tpi which is a finer thread and will require more revolutions to extend same distance.
SO Stock - 1 inch / 32 tpi = .03125 inch per thread x 4 turns = 0.125" collapse to put lifter in sweet zone for hydraulic cushion
AND Aftermarket - 1 inch / 24 tpi = .04167 inch per thread x 3 turns = 0.125" collapse to put lifter in sweet zone for hydraulic cushion.
Therefore it only takes 3 turns your aftermarket pushrod to equal 4 turns the stock pushrod

 
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Old May 8, 2024 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Scrmnvtwins
DRY = Lifter Spring just fully compressed then loosen 1 3/4 turns putting lifter in sweet spot for hydraulic cushion

WET = Pushrod adjusted to just touch with zero lash the socket of the lifter without compressing lifter spring then 4 more turns down putting lifter in sweet spot for hydraulic cushion.

If using wet method be sure you wait 15 minutes after each adjustment to let hydraulic pressure bleed off the lifter you adjusted before rotating engine


Personally, I like WET method best because i struggle to know for sure where the lifter is fully collapsed before adjusting back up.

tpi is threads per inch. your aftermarket pushrods are 24 tpi or 24 threads per inch. your stock pushrods were 32 tpi which is a finer thread and will require more revolutions to extend same distance.
SO Stock - 1 inch / 32 tpi = .03125 inch per thread x 4 turns = 0.125" collapse to put lifter in sweet zone for hydraulic cushion
AND Aftermarket - 1 inch / 24 tpi = .04167 inch per thread x 3 turns = 0.125" collapse to put lifter in sweet zone for hydraulic cushion.
Therefore it only takes 3 turns your aftermarket pushrod to equal 4 turns the stock pushrod
Awesome. Thank you.
 
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