Heat shield or header wrap ?
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Novice
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 19
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From: Northern CA
Heat shield or header wrap ?
I hope this is the correct place to post this thread ?
Any way,
These open pipes on my “77”shovelhead will burn you just a few moments after start up. We have to ether wrap them or keep trying to find shields and were having no luck with the shields. Can some one tell me if there is a name for this pipe set up or even a name for these pipes so I have something to work with while calling around looking for the shields. Here's what were working with.
Also is this wrap correct ? =http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lng-64830
Any way,
These open pipes on my “77”shovelhead will burn you just a few moments after start up. We have to ether wrap them or keep trying to find shields and were having no luck with the shields. Can some one tell me if there is a name for this pipe set up or even a name for these pipes so I have something to work with while calling around looking for the shields. Here's what were working with.
Also is this wrap correct ? =http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lng-64830
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 979
Likes: 38
From: new orleans,la
if you use the header wrap do like i do-- i tig weld 10/32 S/S cap screws on the back side of the pipe and use fender washers to hold the wrap-- it holds better and you dont see that nasty straps
Though I use wrap on my dragbike, I never really like it on a streetbike. It just screws up the look of a nice bike, and it does not help performance on a stock or near stock motor. Have you went around to your local independent shops and see if they have any decent shields in their junk room? (All indy shops have a junk room) If you can't find the shields, by all means, use the wrap. It will cut back on the heat.
When you go to wrap the pipes, soak the wrap for a while in water until it is saturated. Wrap the pipe tightly and clamp it, both ends, help from a friend or the wife would be good. Use a 1/2" +/- overlap. Get the pipe back on the bike and warm it up. The wrap will dry "Tight". Hustler has a good picture there.
When you go to wrap the pipes, soak the wrap for a while in water until it is saturated. Wrap the pipe tightly and clamp it, both ends, help from a friend or the wife would be good. Use a 1/2" +/- overlap. Get the pipe back on the bike and warm it up. The wrap will dry "Tight". Hustler has a good picture there.
Last edited by AlCherry; Feb 18, 2013 at 07:34 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 979
Likes: 38
From: new orleans,la
i cant stand the wrap-- but when the owner of the bike says i want them wraped,heres the stuff i wanna use -- "sigh" im doing a exhaust for my bike -- it will be blasted and left plain -- the big *** cone is 4.5" it came off of a 1991 kawasaki jet ski-- thats a rear pipe on the front - its just for the pic... 
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Northern CA
When you look at my pipes we thought we would just wrap them (in black)from the front down to where the bulge starts and leaving that's last part chrome. Do you think that will be far enough ? Also I read that there is a sealer spray that you can use to keep it dry and help prevent fraying. What are your thoughts on that ? Thanks for all the replies and suggestions.
Last edited by OUTLAW SOLDIER; Feb 18, 2013 at 09:07 PM.
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 163
Likes: 1
From: Pollock Pines, Ca
They look like cycle shack PHD-115. Have a set on my bike, never had a problem too much with burning myself. They sell a shield for the front HS18 and the rear HS19
Last edited by vangasman; Feb 18, 2013 at 09:54 PM.
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From: Northern CA
Thank for the info. on the pipes and guards vangasman .
Were going to use the wrap first leaving the end half chrome.
I should have some photos by the week end.
Thanks again for all the replies.
Were going to use the wrap first leaving the end half chrome.
I should have some photos by the week end.
Thanks again for all the replies.
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another option would be ceramic coating the pipes to knock down the temps.
sometimes the powder coater can get the insides clean enough to get the
slurry to adhere increasing the insulation value.
my pcoater has a "near chrome" ceramic that can be polished out to give a look
similar to nickel plate.
sometimes the powder coater can get the insides clean enough to get the
slurry to adhere increasing the insulation value.
my pcoater has a "near chrome" ceramic that can be polished out to give a look
similar to nickel plate.
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