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Since everything looks good and the bearings appear to be correct and pressed in correctly; if it was me I would see about getting a caliper side axle spacer smaller (shorter) than the one I had or have it put on a lathe and shaved down the amount that is needed to center the rotor in the caliper. This should bring the caliper side fork leg closer to the wheel and bring the caliper in line with the rotor.
Should not cost much and the dealer/parts/mechanic may know of a spacer that is 1/16 or 1/8 in shorter. I would mic up the distance needed to center the rotor and take that much off the spacer.
I would then take it on a test ride slowly and test the braking moving up to higher speed until I was confident everything was safe. Because the bearing number changed it could be the spec is a tad off for your wheel.
https://www.dragspecialties.com/sear...IXzaz56UmQX07j
well that link didn't work!! Lol just showing Drag specialties has many different axle spacers of all sizes, I've used these many times! easier than making your own and chrome to boot!!
Last edited by Mallard Slayer; Jan 26, 2021 at 06:41 AM.
So here's some better pictures of what I'm working with. Here is where the rotor is contacting the caliper, and the caliper bolts are barely seated and not snug or torqued to spec. If the bolts are tightened any more, the rotor starts to drag.
I picked up some 10mm washers to space out the caliper which moves it away from that side and with it, the wheel spins freely. Only one washer per bolt needed.
Spacing the caliper is not the answer, you need to find out why the wheel is in the wrong position, and correct the issue.
Make sure the bearings are in the correct position, since the rotor was not contacting the caliper before the bearings were replaced, the bearing installation is the likely suspect...
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Jan 27, 2021 at 08:02 PM.
When you assembled the axle in the wheel with the spacers on, did you have any problem installing it between the fork legs?
In other words, did you have to apply any force outward on the fork legs to get the assembly into position?
Before you just install spacers to fix the problem I would want to make sure that the fork legs do not have any lateral pressure
on them that could cause binding.
I agree with Dan89FLSTC, I would not space the caliper to fix the problem, I would check the difference between the old style
and new style bearings and fit the axle spacers to fix the problem.
Last edited by showin4fun; Jan 28, 2021 at 03:58 AM.
Pull the bearing out and check the internet spacer measurement to ensure that it is the right length to allow the outer race of the bearing seat on the shoulder inside the hub.
If the outer race is not seated against shoulder in the hub, by spacing the caliber the bearing will be able to walk which will not only destroy the bearing but also the hub.
When you're installing the front wheel you need to make sure the cap on the lower leg is loose.
Torque the axle nut. I use a phillips screwdriver in the hole on the axle to keep it from turning as I torque the nut. Then tighten the cap on the bottom of the lower leg.
If you tighten the fork cap first and then tighten the axle nut you'll pull the fork legs together causing all kinds of weird problems.
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