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I would not recomend just shimming the caliper. Need to talk to your shop and determine root cause. Is the sleeve in place and tight? What if it's the bearing not seated all the way and it moves deeper while riding? Need to keep digging.
I would not recomend just shimming the caliper. Need to talk to your shop and determine root cause. Is the sleeve in place and tight? What if it's the bearing not seated all the way and it moves deeper while riding? Need to keep digging.
That is exactly right. I would want to be 100% sure the bearing is seated correctly. If it is not there
is a possibility it could move after some miles and cause a disaster. Easiest way to check is like said
above, check the sleeve between the bearing to see if there is any movement. If it is snug, them maybe
the shop installed the wrong bearings (too thick).
Those look pretty pressed in to me, maybe someone that has a keener eye than me can say otherwise. I can move the middle spacer in-between the bearings up and down just a smidge, but not side to side towards either bearing. They're the correct bearings according to Ronnie's.
It does look right. Even looked up the bearing numbers and those are correct as well. Something is obviously different tho, even your old bearing picture shows it in further which would make up the difference in the caliper.
Those look pretty pressed in to me, maybe someone that has a keener eye than me can say otherwise. I can move the middle spacer in-between the bearings up and down just a smidge, but not side to side towards either bearing. They're the correct bearings according to Ronnie's.
Since everything looks good and the bearings appear to be correct and pressed in correctly; if it was me I would see about getting a caliper side axle spacer smaller (shorter) than the one I had or have it put on a lathe and shaved down the amount that is needed to center the rotor in the caliper. This should bring the caliper side fork leg closer to the wheel and bring the caliper in line with the rotor.
Should not cost much and the dealer/parts/mechanic may know of a spacer that is 1/16 or 1/8 in shorter. I would mic up the distance needed to center the rotor and take that much off the spacer.
I would then take it on a test ride slowly and test the braking moving up to higher speed until I was confident everything was safe. Because the bearing number changed it could be the spec is a tad off for your wheel.
I've gone through every picture I have of the bike, and of course the side I want isn't the photogenic side. So here's a hodge podge of clippings from those photos. It definitely looks like the rotor side is more pressed in than the other, but at this point I'm about ready to believe it's an optical illusion.
I've gone through every picture I have of the bike, and of course the side I want isn't the photogenic side. So here's a hodge podge of clippings from those photos. It definitely looks like the rotor side is more pressed in than the other, but at this point I'm about ready to believe it's an optical illusion.
you dont by any chance have the old bearings that came out or can get them. Then you could measure the bearings for width
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