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With all respect, please do. That "should" confirm or eliminate the starter being an issue. Again, provided the battery "cable" to starter AND the starter and battery are properly grounded to the engine/frame.
Very possible it thru some soldered wires out of the commentator. Manual turn it and see if it will go. It's obviously drawing battery down.
Could be just acting like a big magnet stuck with the next tug dead.
Originally Posted by mikey95hd
I tried turning it when I installed the jackshaft, it did turn the starter when I tightened the jackshaft with a socket wrench 1/4 drive pretty easily.
You may have misunderstood what I was saying. When you had that close to normal voltage drop, that was armature with current passing thru.
You said it had spun up before. That's when I was thinking a improperly soldiered wire came loose. The armature becomes many indexing magnets as it spins.
There are outer field coils, either electrical or in some cases strong permanent magnets are used .
The commutator is a bunch of seperate connections that the brushes run on to index the pulls.
Wasn't saying armature would not turn. Was saying it had broken and the required next tug was missing.
Seen this happen on car starters. Sometimes spinning it will get it to run. Of course that doesn't fix it and starter is very weak.
You would see it in an amp draw test.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jul 21, 2023 at 04:08 AM.
Once more, what is the voltage reading across the battery posts?
What is the voltage reading across the battery posts while the start button is pressed?
Next step, unplug the electrical connector under the dash panel, clean the pins and sockets in the plastic connector, make sure none of the pins or sockets are pushed out of the connector.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Jul 21, 2023 at 07:59 AM.
Once more, what is the voltage reading across the battery posts?
What is the voltage reading across the battery posts while the start button is pressed?
Next step, unplug the electrical connector under the dash panel, clean the pins and sockets in the plastic connector, make sure none of the pins or sockets are pushed out of the connector.
Obliviously we are going down different paths. But the latest I saw was with two clicks, he was showing a voltage drop to 7.58
That to me is starter or battery.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jul 21, 2023 at 10:16 AM.
[QUOTE=Dan89FLSTC;21307832]Once more, what is the voltage reading across the battery posts?
What is the voltage reading across the battery posts while the start button is pressed?
Next step, unplug the electrical connector under the dash panel, clean the pins and sockets in the plastic connector, make sure none of the pins or sockets are pushed out of the connector.
[/QUOTE
That connector is the one under the gas tank correct? I had that half off the other day when cleaning the contacts on the ignition switch, dropped one of the little screws down in that area. At that time didn't think to look at that connector, since that is the path for the power on the red wire.
Will do another voltage check at the battery, and pressing the start button again, I know the voltage is getting low on the battery, maybe take it to auto zone again and have them charge it up again, seems
you can't find a good battery charger nowadays.
If you can please try the tests before charging up battery. If the battery reads 11.5 - 12 volts it may be questionable.
Have seen that voltage many times start vehicle or bike if enough amps still in the battery
Real curious as to what battery voltage is with/without the button pressed.
Goodness I'm wondering how many amps the starter is really pulling.
OP Takes a different kind of meter
Once more, what is the voltage reading across the battery posts?
What is the voltage reading across the battery posts while the start button is pressed?
Next step, unplug the electrical connector under the dash panel, clean the pins and sockets in the plastic connector, make sure none of the pins or sockets are pushed out of the connector.
[/QUOTE
That connector is the one under the gas tank correct? I had that half off the other day when cleaning the contacts on the ignition switch, dropped one of the little screws down in that area. At that time didn't think to look at that connector, since that is the path for the power on the red wire.
Will do another voltage check at the battery, and pressing the start button again, I know the voltage is getting low on the battery, maybe take it to auto zone again and have them charge it up again, seems
you can't find a good battery charger nowadays.
Also found the same wiring diagram that you have.
Battery reading is now 12.46 voltage
Pressing start button 11.68 volts
cleaned the connector that goes thru the frame under the dash, no loose pins in connector, and no chaffed or broken wires, and took red/black wire off the ignition relay and cleaned it again...
Connected everything back up again, connected battery positive connector at battery. Hit starter button, and guess what, the starter engaged, the jackshaft engaged the clutch gear, and the engine turned over, if there was gas in it I'm sure it would have started. Turned it off, thinking maybe it's now going to work. Well waited 5 minutes and tried it again, now it just clicks again at solenoid.
Battery voltage is 12.38, 11.70 when press start button.
At least we're making progress now, that's the first time everything seemed to work like it should, at least one time.
Last edited by mikey95hd; Jul 22, 2023 at 01:38 PM.
Battery voltage is 12.38, 11.70 when press start button.
This is telling us that the starter motor is not drawing any current, I suspect the excess voltage drop in the circuit you are working your way through could be the issue.
Two more connections to clean up (they will be fun), on the main breaker.
It is back on the rear fender extension, you can pull it out of its bracket and pull it toward you to get access to the tiny nuts.
You`re doing good Mikey.
Note: You need to charge that battery, it is weak.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Jul 22, 2023 at 03:31 PM.
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