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Another Dreaded Click, Click...

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Old Jul 22, 2023 | 03:28 PM
  #111  
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[QUOTE=Dan89FLSTC;21309870]
Originally Posted by mikey95hd
This is telling us that the starter motor is not drawing any current, I suspect the excess voltage drop in the circuit you are working your way through could be the issue.

Two more connections to clean up (they will be fun), on the main breaker.

It is back on the rear fender extension, you can pull it out of its bracket and pull it toward you to get access to the tiny nuts.

You`re doing good Mikey.
Thats because the starter never engaged.
Once the contacts were cleaned the starter engaged and turned the engine over. We need the battery voltages when this happens , when the starter engages.

Still think it’s the battery.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2023 | 03:28 PM
  #112  
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[QUOTE=Dan89FLSTC;21309870]
Originally Posted by mikey95hd
This is telling us that the starter motor is not drawing any current, I suspect the excess voltage drop in the circuit you are working your way through could be the issue.

Two more connections to clean up (they will be fun), on the main breaker.

It is back on the rear fender extension, you can pull it out of its bracket and pull it toward you to get access to the tiny nuts.

You`re doing good Mikey.
Looking at the wiring diagram, that is the next source of where the red wire is going to the main breaker. What I don't get it did try to start. Also that is where the black wire from the voltage regulator is connected.
Also found the following in the book.


 

Last edited by mikey95hd; Jul 22, 2023 at 03:47 PM.
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Old Jul 22, 2023 | 04:38 PM
  #113  
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[QUOTE=Dan89FLSTC;21309870]
Originally Posted by mikey95hd
This is telling us that the starter motor is not drawing any current, I suspect the excess voltage drop in the circuit you are working your way through could be the issue.

Two more connections to clean up (they will be fun), on the main breaker.

It is back on the rear fender extension, you can pull it out of its bracket and pull it toward you to get access to the tiny nuts.

You`re doing good Mikey.

Note: You need to charge that battery, it is weak.

Got the circuit breaker out, didn't know after all these years it was inside a bracket to the fender, would have made changing the voltage regulator wire a lot easier removing it this way. Cleaned up all the wires and connections, sprayed with contact cleaner and wire brushed everything at breaker.
Taking battery to have it charged again. Going to O'Reilly's instead maybe they can load test it, AutoZone charged it but couldn't load test it. Will let you know the outcome when I get it back and install it...

Also noticed that the voltage regulator wire is connected to the copper stud, this is the way it came from the factory.
Had a voltage regulator go bad on me, the new one had me change the wire the way it is on the diagram. It failed on me, meaning the new one, so put the old one back in and changed the wiring back to what it was originally, it's worked fine the way it is now. Shouldn't it be the way it's in the diagram?

​​​Something isn't right, the black wire from the starter main voltage where the other end of positive cable connects to starter is going to the silver stud on the main circuit breaker. The voltage regulator wire is connected to copper stud with red wire.
That is opposite of the way it should be according to the wiring diagram.
Not sure this would make a difference?
 

Last edited by mikey95hd; Jul 22, 2023 at 07:01 PM.
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Old Jul 23, 2023 | 02:39 AM
  #114  
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So you charged the battery and the bike tried to start, then it wouldn’t start because the battery now need’s charging?

 
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Old Jul 23, 2023 | 05:47 AM
  #115  
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You should connect the wires to the main breaker as shown in the wiring diagram.

The copper stud is where power goes into the breaker, the silver stud is power coming out of the breaker.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2023 | 09:18 AM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by HeritageBrads
So you charged the battery and the bike tried to start, then it wouldn’t start because the battery now need’s charging?
I charged the battery, and all it did was click, and cleaning different points of power, which wore the battery down, at one point it worked. So it needed to be changed back up again.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2023 | 01:00 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
You should connect the wires to the main breaker as shown in the wiring diagram.

The copper stud is where power goes into the breaker, the silver stud is power coming out of the breaker.
connected everything the way the wiring diagram shows, black wire alone from starter is going to copper stud, and the red and voltage regulator wires are now on silver.
Slow charge overnight battery now shows 13.06 and no failures on charger green light. Turned ignition on and off now reads 12.96 volts.
Removed spark plugs, and checked oil in tank with bike sitting level, there is no oil in the tank, and I'm thinking the check valve in the oil pump caused all of it to be in bottom of crankcase.
Well first try, the engine turned over, and compression coming out of spark plug hole, shut it off at ignition switch and it kept on cranking with switch off, maybe for 30 seconds, then it shut off should have hit the kill switch. Tried it again and this time only cranked,a few seconds maybe ten let off switch and it stopped. this time it again cranked the motor over and compression. Third time, it clicked a couple of times then it turned over again, seemed to work normally. Check oil level in tank still nothing in tank, should haved pumped oil from crankcase to tank.
Now it just clicks again, voltage is now at 12.86 volts in off position, drops to 12.55 volts and just clicks. Leave in off position battery climbed back up to 12.91 now.
 

Last edited by mikey95hd; Jul 23, 2023 at 01:02 PM.
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Old Jul 23, 2023 | 01:16 PM
  #118  
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Disconnect negative battery cable.

Remove end of starter solenoid and inspect the contacts.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2023 | 01:39 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
Disconnect negative battery cable.

Remove end of starter solenoid and inspect the contacts.
​​​​​​
attached pictures.


 
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Old Jul 23, 2023 | 03:32 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by mikey95hd
​​​​​​
attached pictures.

Took some sandpaper 120 grit and cleaned the contacts inside solenoid, also plunger , when taking apart the three bolts were not very tight, barely took any turning with 1/4 drive with no socket wrench. Assembled solenoid cover and tighten the 3 bolts down snug. Connected battery back up, put dash back on and seat.

Ok here we go again, hit start button, and to my amazement, it cranked over like it should. Plugs are still out, and checked oil on jiffy stand, there now is a little oil in the very bottom.
Let's give it another try, same results, the engine again turned over and compression coming out spark plugs holes.

Should I spray some more fogging oil inside cylinders to keep them lubed?
Turning it over with plugs out, shouldn't any oil that is in the bottom of the crankcase, start pumping back into the tank?
This bike hasn't ran in three years, I was worried about it being seized, when I was able to turn it over by hand, I knew it wasn't.
I've drained the old gas out no rust in tanks, and grey coating is in tact. Also pulled pingel, screen was clean no rust.
Originally I took it apart for a failed starter, and decided to change the shift lever that attached to the transmission shaft.
Going to try it again, this time seems to be working like it should...:-).

​​​​
 

Last edited by mikey95hd; Jul 23, 2023 at 03:33 PM.
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