95 softail custom electrical head scratcher
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Novice
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From: GA
95 softail custom electrical head scratcher
Howdy, I have a 95 softail custom that sometimes will start and run perfect. Then some times just turn over and loudly backfire, and spit. Then some times I can start riding be running perfect Then pop and die, then won't start back. One thing I have noticed is that it will start up with the ignition in the " lights " position, as well as the ignition position. Any help would be appreciated.
Last edited by Cloudshaker; Nov 10, 2023 at 12:51 PM.
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: San Diego, CA
Howdy, I have a 95 softail custom that sometimes will start and run perfect. Then some times just turn over and loudly backfire, and spit. Then some times I can start riding be running perfect Then pop and die, then won't start back. One thing I have noticed is that it will start up with the ignition in the " lights " position, as well as the ignition position. Any help would be appreciated.
That highlighted area alone, would make me check out the ignition switch and the associated wiring...
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From: South Carolina
If the ignition switch is wired as it came from the factory, it will start with the switch in either position.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Nov 10, 2023 at 05:39 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2021
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From: Under the affluence of incahol.
If it cranks over but only backfires and spits, sounds like either an ignition problem or fuel problem. Next time it happens, check the plugs to see if you are getting good spark, and see if they are wet with fuel.
Do you have a carb or the Magneti Marelli EFI on that model? The latter can be troublesome and cause intermittent problems due to corroded connections, bad sensors or a myriad of other things.
If it is a carb model, like my 95 RK, it could be gunk in the carb. Or a perished diaphragm in the CV carb top. Or another common problem is the vacuum operated fuel petcock going bad. Can suck air in through the cracked diaphragm or cracked vacuum hose, or cause lack of fuel to the carb and cause bad running.
The ignition system on the carb models is pretty basic. Start with new plugs. Maybe try new plug leads even after all these years. Could be a coil going bad. They often play up merry hell and act like lack of fuel etc before they die completely. Or it could be bad Hall effect sensor in the nose cone, but they usually either work or they don't, completely.
Have a search through the Evo section of this forum. Lots of good info and knowledge in there.
Do you have a carb or the Magneti Marelli EFI on that model? The latter can be troublesome and cause intermittent problems due to corroded connections, bad sensors or a myriad of other things.
If it is a carb model, like my 95 RK, it could be gunk in the carb. Or a perished diaphragm in the CV carb top. Or another common problem is the vacuum operated fuel petcock going bad. Can suck air in through the cracked diaphragm or cracked vacuum hose, or cause lack of fuel to the carb and cause bad running.
The ignition system on the carb models is pretty basic. Start with new plugs. Maybe try new plug leads even after all these years. Could be a coil going bad. They often play up merry hell and act like lack of fuel etc before they die completely. Or it could be bad Hall effect sensor in the nose cone, but they usually either work or they don't, completely.
Have a search through the Evo section of this forum. Lots of good info and knowledge in there.
Last edited by PeterB; Nov 10, 2023 at 07:32 PM.
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From: GA
It does turn over when it quits, but usually will backfire, occasionally hit and try to start but fail. It's a carb system that has been set by one of the best Harley mechanics in my area. When it starts it starts faster than my 2010, ultra classic, or my 2014 ultra limited. I believe it's a electrical issue, however it don't make sense that it's hit and miss. I did buy a Drag Specialties ignition switch replacement unit. Is it normal for this style ignition to start, and run in the " lights "position ?
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From: Beyond Fucital
the starting with it in the lights position is the way the ignition switch is wired. So the lights must be on when the bike is running. It was an easy way to accommodate the law.
You could remove the little yellow jumper wire between terminal 5 and 6, but why would you want to?
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From: GA
Yesterday I tried to give fir a ride, started perfect, ran food made it 1/4-1/2 mile popped and no start back. TrIlered it back to the house. Put it in the charger, tried to start it a couple more times it would pop Loyd but no start. Left it overnight, went out this morning and she started right up ? I'm wondering if some component is having issues once it heats up based on temperature alone. Any thoughts ?
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Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Nov 2023
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From: GA
You must be a real special person. Who told you I haven't tried any suggestions? I replaced the plugs, changed the ignition module, Actually "you" only asked me for a clarification which I responded to, but gave absilutly no suggestion. Now you feel the need to be sarcastic for no reason. I guess in your mind you think you are insulting me, but in reality, you are showing everyone who you really are. Good job !