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Handlebar wiring Question

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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 09:20 PM
  #1  
third_left_eye's Avatar
third_left_eye
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From: Dawson Creek, B.C., Canada
Default Handlebar wiring Question

I'm in the process of switching out my handlebars and hand controls. I just don't know how to take the pins out of the connectors. Any info? And if anyone knows what type of pins I need for the connectors. My new bars came pre wired but don't have the pins.
Thanx in advance for any input.

Brad
 
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 10:16 PM
  #2  
Tx_Outlaw's Avatar
Tx_Outlaw
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From: Aledo, Texas
Default RE: Handlebar wiring Question

You could always cut the originals and solder/heat shink.......
 
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 10:20 PM
  #3  
In Memoriam Citoriplus's Avatar
In Memoriam Citoriplus
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From: Rochester, NY
Default RE: Handlebar wiring Question

Use the search function, its been discussed before, with pics and all.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 11:09 PM
  #4  
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third_left_eye
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Default RE: Handlebar wiring Question

cool, thanx
 
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 11:26 PM
  #5  
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pwer pla
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Default RE: Handlebar wiring Question

Service Maunal has good pics and instructions if you don't have a manual I would highly recommend getting one. If you are doing the type of mods you are describing you will definetly benefit.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 07:35 AM
  #6  
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Default RE: Handlebar wiring Question

If you are talking about the wire connectors under the fuel tank - they are called Deutsch connectors and they are fairly easy to remove. Simply take a screw driver blade and gently pry the lid off. Inside you will find a small "wedge" or seconary lock that comes out easily once the lid is removed. Then, using a small pick of some sort, simply reach in and gently lift the little "flap" or "flange" that covers each pin. Once listed, the pin simply slides out the reat through the bottom of the connector. Be sure to draw a schematic of which wires were pulled from which hole and also remember which color connector goes to each side of the bike. One connector is Gray and the other is black. I agree that you should probably invest in a service manual but even with them you still need to take your time if it's the first time you've done it. If your wires are bare at the ends, you'll need to crimp on the appropriate Deutsch pin onto the wires. I think many people just cut the wires and then use an appropriate butt joint crimp and shrink wrap to avoid the cost of the Deutsch crimp tool.

Good luck!

Hope this helps
 
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 10:35 AM
  #7  
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gunner065
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From: Nova Scotia
Default RE: Handlebar wiring Question

ORIGINAL: pwer pla

Service Maunal has good pics and instructions if you don't have a manual I would highly recommend getting one. If you are doing the type of mods you are describing you will definetly benefit.
It's not a difficult job, just a little tedious at times. I also recommend the service manual. It's worth it's weight in gold.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 11:03 AM
  #8  
pwer pla's Avatar
pwer pla
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From: Grand Island NE
Default RE: Handlebar wiring Question

gunner, i agree that overall it is not that difficult to do just lots of little steps. Manual might save you a brake switch orsomething small like that. If I hadnt had the service manual when I did mine I am pretty sure I would be replacing that little sucker, had to readjust it afterwards anyway. Also the maunal has wiring diagram for replacing wires in the connectors, I labeled mine when I did it but one mistake and I would have had a mess.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 01:27 PM
  #9  
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Lone Watie
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From: Northern Arizona
Default RE: Handlebar wiring Question

A paper clip works real well for fitting into the small diameter hole for releasing the tangs on the molex connectors, or some real stiff safety (mechanics) wire. A dental pic will work well on the deutsch connectors. ++ on the service manual.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 02:59 PM
  #10  
BB06FLHX's Avatar
BB06FLHX
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From: AZ
Default RE: Handlebar wiring Question

When I did the missus's bike I used this tool from Summit racing:


MSD-8193


Basically looks like a hollow screwdriver. It was only like 15.00 delivered and with the aggravation it saved it more than paid for itself. Plus when I do my bars it will have done two bikes (comes out to 7.50 per bike).
 
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