When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have had those blocks around for over 20 years, but you should be able to find them at a electrical supply house. These blocks were sectioned off into about 4 or 5 spaces. Check lowes or home depot to see if they might have them.
I have had those blocks around for over 20 years, but you should be able to find them at a electrical supply house. These blocks were sectioned off into about 4 or 5 spaces. Check lowes or home depot to see if they might have them.
Most of the ones I've found searching online are quite a bit smaller, so wouldn't go with such large bolts. Those look like they fit perfectly. I'll look at Home Depot/Lowes to see if I can find any there. Thanks for the tip.
BTW, did you have one mounted on each side of the bike? It kinda looked that way from the photos. Also, did you use heavy duty cables, like from battery to regulator, to go from the battery to those blocks?
I use the original wires that were on the bike. I have 2 battery tender wires on the positive side and negative side. One set is for the tender and the other I spliced into my tour pak for extra lights and a usb double charger. The red wire on the positive side is a heavy gauge and I will have to check what size it is. There is a block on each side of the bike.
Check out this part number from Eaton. Eaton c4559-8, This is a little different from mine, but it is the same principle with studs. They do sell something similar that use screws.
Check out this part number from Eaton. Eaton c4559-8, This is a little different from mine, but it is the same principle with studs. They do sell something similar that use screws.
Couldn't seem to find anything like those pictured, even using that part #, but found some small 3-8 position screw terminals for about $10 or less. I just didn't want to go that big, and since space is tight under the seat and behind the side covers, wanted to go smaller.
Splice 5 wires into the shotgun switch harness, preferably the same color and gauge and run it to the transceiver box then daisy a red wire to the other A Slots. Then Run a 12v wire and ground wire to the box to power the transceiver, if you want to hide the box in the headlamp then tap into your headlamp harness for power. I put my box in one of my saddlebags so I went straight to the battery for power. Here is simple picture diagram, Just like the Shotgun switch I kept the upper left as Button A and lower left as C and upper right as B and lower right ad D.
I just completed this cooler install for about 55 dlls. The tubing and valves I sourced from work from the scrap bin but I'm sure you can get them from a hardware store for little money. The cooler is a Hayden transmission cooler and the brakets for the downtubes I got from ebay, roof light mounting brakets. The cooler came with the hose. What I did is I tapped from the 1/2" line coming out of the scavenge pump out of the motor. Ran a line from there to a T fitting which sends the oil back to the oil bag, this is valved. And the other side of the T fitting goes to the bottom of the cooler. So it is fed from the bottom so there is no air in the system. When it comes back from the top of the cooler, it is also valved. Both lines meet up at a T fitting and go back to the oil bag. I run my first 10 minutes with the cooler return closed, Isolated, until the oil in the oil bag warms up to at abou 210-220. Then I open the oil cooler bypass valve as well, both valves open and on highway, I'm running about 190F. I feel way more comfortable now that my thighs are not burning, specially in traffic. Here in CA we can split or share lanes so my ride is way more comfortable. My usual ride, the oil ran at about 250F ie, it burned. I never liked the idea of the Harley kit because it used the oil filter adapter which cooled the oil before it got to the motor and then the oil picked up heat and sent that heat back to the oil bag. I think this idea is more clever since it also looks at driver comfort. Not to mention the huge cost savings. A Harley cooler or the OilBud is about 400-650 dlls, this is about 50 dlls plus some miscellaneous tubing and valves. You could go fancy and get a thermostatic valve. I ride my bike about 600 mi a week so my set up works for me. Well, hope somebody gets some value out of this. Good luck.
I know this is store bought but I purchased two bicycle seat racks from Walmart to connect to my hard mounted 5/8" sissy bar to hold the weight of a fully loaded bag. My Slim S is severely lacking when it comes to mounting options. It's not perfect but the point is it cost me $40 and works if you have some sort of sissy bar. I found it impossible to find bolt on luggage racks, ones that I knew would fit and didn't cost hundreds of $. A cheap but effective alternative.
