Okay somebody educate me please !!!



Dont want to look like a idiot when I go in for my 1000 mile service and I ask them to redo the Dyno tuning and set the air-fuel ratio to 13 cause some guy on the Internet said that's what I should have it set at.

FWIW, I have no idea but I'm here to learn from you guys and like I said before in a earlier post, it looks like my numbers are low when I compare to others here. I'm hoping a simple retune and setting the air - fuel to 13 will help ?


Thanks

 

actually afr varies with map sensor, speed sensor, crank sensor, and what the cams want. If you look at the true "tuned" motors the afr is allways up and down, It all goes with the volumetric efficiency of any motor, no motor is exactly the same, the best tunes are done with steady state afr readings, at throttle postions. Calculated with load so to get a true tune----

lets say at 20% throttle and 3000 rpm you would want X afr, now at 20% throttle and 5500 rpm your going to want a X+Y afr. This is where you find good tuners, it takes alot of time for a good tune at all the variable cells in a fuel map. Heres a couple of screen shots of a PC3 map and a TTs map

 

105hp
106 torque

103 SE Stage 4
SERT
SE Heavy Breather
Tunderheader 2:1

 

Here is mine:
2009 FLSTF
stock 96" motor
SE air cleaner with Zippers filter
SE slip-on mufflers (with catalytic converters)
HP: 78.81
TQ: 89.22

 

Results for wife's new Deluxe:

Stock base line:
HP 65.89
TQ 84.04

Installed V&H True Duals with quiet baffles, SE Air Cleaner, SE Super Tuner

HP 70.07
TQ 90.05

From around 1600 rpm through 2000 rpm there is a torque increase in the 10 to 12 ftlbs range.

 

Just finished the tune on my Deuce (TQ 98 HP 88). It's a stock CVO SE 95 stage 2 with 203 cam from factory and recently installed Fatcat 2-1. Very happy with it but will be looking next year at some new cams and some head work to move the torque a bit more to the left. I am up for suggestions or comments. Tuned with Direct link. Jarz performance in Abbotsford dyno'd and tuned the bike. Very impressed with the entire shop.

 

Gasoline produces the most power at 12.6:1 A/F and is most efficient at 14.7:1 A/F. When I say that your A/F should be set at 13.0:1 /F I am referring to the wide open throttle. When I tune a bike, I tune all the VE trables to 13.0:1, this is basically calibrating the ECM, when the tune is complete, I will set the air fuel table to where I want it. i.e. high throttle positions and RPM ranges will be richer and gradually get leaner as the demand on the engine decreases. Like in the cruising range, typically a bike will be cruising at 55 MPH wround 2300 RPM at with a Kpa load around 30 to 40%. This area of the A/F table I will set to 14.6:1 A/F. Since the bike was calibrated during the VE tune, it now knows what adjustments to make to acheive the 14.6:1 I set it at in this area. Here's a screen shot of a typical af table, you'll notice that the higher the load and RPM ranges the richer I set it at.

 

HP 73.84
TQ 88.28
SE air filter modified SE slip ons
stage1 download
this is a base run and not dyno tuned

bike is a 2009 crossbones 96" 6spd

 

wow,, nice,,,, i just ordered a d and d cat, and already got a heavy breather and power commander..., looking forward to that!!

 

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With U not knowning how things work it all depends on what U paid for...

So if U didn't pay for a dyno tune and just had a canned map installed Ur #'s of 77/67 not terrible low. If U paid for a complete dyno tune then I's say Yes U need another tune or tuner.

My 07 stock motor with the rush slip-on made 78/63..
Added SE A/C , SERT and Dyno tune she made 83/72
Added the Andrew cams and Dynoed again, she made 92/80

As far a breaking the motor in on the Dyno,, its done all the time around here.
There is a method of doing it, The don't just hook it up and run the Chit out of a new bike to dyno it. They cycle the motors speed gradually setting the lower rpm tables 1st then the mid tables allow cooling time in-between and before doing the WOT test.

Read through the article in this link and U'll understand how and why..
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Son has had 2 of his last 3 new bikes done that way, he added
cams, pipes, SERT and dynoed before he even rode them home. and they've ran very strong.

I've seen and studied hundreds and hundreds of dyno sheets and cams 3yrs ago before I picked the cams I wanted and the average numbers the 96B'ers produce..

They average {+ or - (3)} on these number below.

Stock around - 77/62
Stg 1 - 83/72
Stg1 + cams - 94/81

There is also a difference between a STD and SAE dyno, and also between each dyno machine itself. There can be a 5% diffenence on which type U have done.

Also wither a dyno is done in 4th or 5th gear, how much air is in the rear tire, if the tuner sits on the bike or off the side. All of this can and will make a difference on Ur Number results.

There are some tuners that sets up a dyno strictly for getting high numbers so they can get more business.

Dyno's are not all the same so there not really comparing Apples to Apples.

If Ur bike is running fine (starting good, no hesitation, gas mileage ok,) and it feels better than before U took it in, then Ur more than likely OK..

I wouldn't get caught up in the Bar Bragging Numbers Game that some do in here on just a Stg1 motor..