Chrome Switch Housing: Rocker C
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 218
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From: Newfoundland
Chrome Switch Housing: Rocker C
I just received my left and right Chrome Switch housing and chrome switch inserts for the Rocker. I expected this to be a fairly routine mod....however I just finished wretching over the disassembly and reassembly of the switch housings in my Service Manual (I have to install the Chrome Willie G Grips as well) and I am less than confident that I can pull this off!! Seems I am having fears of a reoccourance when I opened a G.I.Joe toy at 10 years old and all the pieces fell out, never to be reassembled. Is this a back yard job or am I going to pay a PREMIUM to have a mechanic come to my house in the spring because I may render the bike undrivable...........
Thanks for your advice
NewfieRocker
Thanks for your advice
NewfieRocker
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 279
Likes: 1
From: WV
Not sure about the rocker but on the standard they are pretty easy. Just remember when you separate the 2 halves there is a small zip tie on the lower section that needs cut so you have enough wires to play with (cutting the zip tie will give you about 4-5 inches of movement).
The switch’s come out pretty easy after removing the torx screw; you will not be able to see the screw until the zip tie is cut.
You will need a third hand for a light and a small set of cutters.
The hardest part I had was routing the wires back the way they came, so make a mental note of how the wires lay in there.
The kit will include 2 zip ties to replace the one’s you cut, take my advice and route the zip tie but leave it VERY loose until you get the switch’s in place, screws back in, and are ready to put the 2 halves back together; then when the 2 pieces are almost touching tighten the zip tie and cut the extra. I ended up doing things twice until I learned to leave a big loop until the end.
The throttle cables pull right out the bottom after you loosen them from the adjusters and remove the barrel clamp inside.
It took me about 30 minutes for the clutch side and about 45-60 minutes for the throttle side including re-adjusting the throttle.
Like lonewolf said just take your time and thing will work.
The switch’s come out pretty easy after removing the torx screw; you will not be able to see the screw until the zip tie is cut.
You will need a third hand for a light and a small set of cutters.
The hardest part I had was routing the wires back the way they came, so make a mental note of how the wires lay in there.
The kit will include 2 zip ties to replace the one’s you cut, take my advice and route the zip tie but leave it VERY loose until you get the switch’s in place, screws back in, and are ready to put the 2 halves back together; then when the 2 pieces are almost touching tighten the zip tie and cut the extra. I ended up doing things twice until I learned to leave a big loop until the end.
The throttle cables pull right out the bottom after you loosen them from the adjusters and remove the barrel clamp inside.
It took me about 30 minutes for the clutch side and about 45-60 minutes for the throttle side including re-adjusting the throttle.
Like lonewolf said just take your time and thing will work.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
From: Southwest, Oklahoma
Not sure about the rocker but on the standard they are pretty easy. Just remember when you separate the 2 halves there is a small zip tie on the lower section that needs cut so you have enough wires to play with (cutting the zip tie will give you about 4-5 inches of movement).
The switchs come out pretty easy after removing the torx screw; you will not be able to see the screw until the zip tie is cut.
You will need a third hand for a light and a small set of cutters.
The hardest part I had was routing the wires back the way they came, so make a mental note of how the wires lay in there.
The kit will include 2 zip ties to replace the ones you cut, take my advice and route the zip tie but leave it VERY loose until you get the switchs in place, screws back in, and are ready to put the 2 halves back together; then when the 2 pieces are almost touching tighten the zip tie and cut the extra. I ended up doing things twice until I learned to leave a big loop until the end.
The throttle cables pull right out the bottom after you loosen them from the adjusters and remove the barrel clamp inside.
It took me about 30 minutes for the clutch side and about 45-60 minutes for the throttle side including re-adjusting the throttle.
Like lonewolf said just take your time and thing will work.
The switchs come out pretty easy after removing the torx screw; you will not be able to see the screw until the zip tie is cut.
You will need a third hand for a light and a small set of cutters.
The hardest part I had was routing the wires back the way they came, so make a mental note of how the wires lay in there.
The kit will include 2 zip ties to replace the ones you cut, take my advice and route the zip tie but leave it VERY loose until you get the switchs in place, screws back in, and are ready to put the 2 halves back together; then when the 2 pieces are almost touching tighten the zip tie and cut the extra. I ended up doing things twice until I learned to leave a big loop until the end.
The throttle cables pull right out the bottom after you loosen them from the adjusters and remove the barrel clamp inside.
It took me about 30 minutes for the clutch side and about 45-60 minutes for the throttle side including re-adjusting the throttle.
Like lonewolf said just take your time and thing will work.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
From: Newfoundland
Thanks for your confidence building responses, perhaps this is something I will have to take on and worst case Scenario, take photos and get coached through the reinstall if necessary.
Cheers guys
Cheers guys
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 279
Likes: 1
From: WV
Good catch Phatts...the metal clip
In the throttel side there is a small metal (coper or brass) wedge that holds the brake light switch in place. Use a small screwdriver and move it out and the brake light switch will come right out.
The clip/wedge just puts pressure on the brake switch to keep it from moving so don't be afraid to hook it with a screwdriver and move it to where you can get it out.
In the throttel side there is a small metal (coper or brass) wedge that holds the brake light switch in place. Use a small screwdriver and move it out and the brake light switch will come right out.
The clip/wedge just puts pressure on the brake switch to keep it from moving so don't be afraid to hook it with a screwdriver and move it to where you can get it out.
Stage II
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Peoria
How I get the wires out of the turn signal so u can put the wire there the new bottom half of the switch housing
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