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I used a dremel with a tiny carbide bit to gain clearance in the area where the arrow ends. Worked well. This was done with the front end on the bike.
There isn't much interference but just enough to be annoying.
As previously stated, I also had to add 2 small 1/4" screws to the fork stops as with the increased angle, the triple tree top touched the instrument panel.
(As an aside, I drilled and tapped the steering stem for a grease fitting. Works great)
Hey John. Thanks for the pic. Is the dremeling that little crescent shape at the bottom front of the neck??
Is the idea to relieve pressure on the bottom bearing?
thanks!
The final verdict for me is: I love it. The bike tracks beautifully at all speeds. It's stretched out just a few inches more and gets the front wheel just a little bit further away from your feet which is especially nice when you install an Arlen Ness forward control extension kit. I just ordered an Arlen Ness lowering kit and kick stand, which will level the bike out nicely.
Took a little bit of thinking about it, but I am really glad I installed it. If you decide to do it and run into a bump in the road, pm me and help I'll you through it. One concern that I would have is installing the kit with full apes. I don't know that it would be an issue, but it's something to think about. If you do have apes, it might pay off for you to call Vulcan and ask for Joe to see what he says.
JS
Scooter.
The issues you described before you got it down are exactly the problems I 'm having.
Installed the kit, was cruising around the parking lot and the bike felt like it wanted to steer itself. Hard to handle with wheel pulling to one side and the other. Felt stiff and wobbly.
Could that be the neck rake's flat spot not being centered?? Should I check the trail as well??
So I installed the Vulcan kit on my Crossbones, but had problems with the handling on the test ride. Bike felt like it was steering itself with jerky movements if I wanted to head left or right. Felt like it was dragging. Talked to the guy at Vulcan and he told me the springer perch might be in contact with the neck. Took a look and sure enough it was.
Got a carbide dremel bit and with a bit of work trimmed a channel on the neck side of the springer perch. Now it rides great!
Will post a pick of the initial cuts manana...
Here's the dremel cut before it gets cleaned up.
Last edited by paperboy1964; Dec 26, 2015 at 02:59 PM.
Reason: update post
It took a couple of years since I bought the kit but now it's finally underway. Spent a couple of late night hours in the garage taking the fort off the bike.
A couple of questions; when it's time to press out the stem - it goes upwards, right? Towards the triple tree? Any tips on how to set it up in the press? Use a jig?
Now that the fork will become an inline springer - is it possible to fit original type springer handlebars like those on original pre-49 springers?
which kit should I use ..... the 4.5 or 7.5 kit ???..
I love the look of this scooter ..... which kit was used here?
Originally Posted by Frankensteen
The late model front ends come in two flavors, the FX (4.5 degree derake) and the FL (7.5 degree drake )
The numbers on these kits are somewhat misleading...you don't get a choice of which one you use...you have to use the 4.5 on the FX, and the 7.5 on the FL...after you install the kit you have the same rake on both...0 rake...because the de-rake was removed...the springer is now parallel or inline with the neck.
No - The other way. Heating the lower surrounding and supporting the fork assembly on a 1 1/2 inch pipe helps when you persuade the stem out with a 3 pound sledge like I did with mine.
Ok, good to know before I start banging... Looking at the Vulcan stem it seemed logical that it would go out upwards. I guess they are different (duh?).
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