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Here's some info that I've acquired the hard way and thought it may be helpful to someone else.
1. The late model front ends come in two flavors, the FX (4.5 degree derake) and the FL (7.5 degree drake )
2. At 22 inches, they are 4 inches longer than the 36-48 models (XA's are 20 inches, SUPER RARE)
3. The bearing stems press out from the top (handlebar side) and down/out through the bottom. (same with other triple trees that aren't welded) No need to remove the snap ring, as that's the side that comes out first.
4. The rockers are different between the FX and FL's. The FX's acorn nuts are on the outside, and the FL's are on the inside, but are interchangeable if building a custom unit like I am. Also, the FL's don't have fender mounts on the front legs. Fender mounts from DNA, Paughco fit perfectly and are adjustable/removable.
Make sure that you've removed the lower bearing from the stem, they can become frozen to the stem and make a 10 min. job last for hours !!!!
NEVER try to tap one out with a steel hammer, unless you use a board to protect the threads, a BRASS hammer is best, if you don't have a press.
If you have to use heat, use plenty of PB BLASTER !!!! It doesn't evaporate from heat like WD40, it flows into the press fit area really nice. If you have time, soak the stem/tree area a few times a few days in advance.
We used gentle heat from the torch and it didn't hurt my chrome. Mine was a really tight .010 inch press fit. Normal press fits are usually .004-.006.
There's a dude on ebay that sells 0 degree stem kits for the FX, and FL's. They run around $275 last time I checked, and will probably lower the front 1-2 inches. You get a lot for the money, stem, bearings, cups, etc.
There are also lowering rockers so that you can keep the stock springs and not loose any suspension travel.
I've been looking at these kits since I got my bones in '10 (it's a '09) ..... just recently bought a new '14 CVO Road King ..... NO ..... I didn't get rid of the bones ..... but ..... now have another ride so I can pull the trigger on this ..... still I have an issue ..... I will also change the front tire from the 16" to a 18" ..... which bring me to my issue ..... which kit should I use ..... the 4.5 or 7.5 kit ???..
I love the look of this scooter ..... which kit was used here?
now I know it has a 21" front tire with a mod'd front fender but hope the 18" which will fit under the stock un-mod'd will look just as good .....
Well I bit the bullet and pulled the front end off my 91 FXSTS and disassembled the beast. I picked up an inexpensive (well not that inexpensive as I had to cross the border and paid in Can funds...Ouch) 20 ton shop press from HF. After careful setup straddling a single press plate and using a 1" socket I started the job. I used a board across the front of the press so I didn't end up wearing it. I am guessing that I must have reached near to the max pressure of the press but the stem finally let loose.
I wouldn't do it any other way them a press. That thing is in there tight!
Now to see if I can get the kit installed properly.
good deal. lets see some pics when its done. which kit did you use 4.5 or 7.5 deg ?
4.5 degree one. Got the thing installed. Looks great. A lot of fine tuning needed to make sure that every is properly aligned. I used the distance between the risers and the bearing retainer as the datum, to ensure the fork stem was properly centered. Worked out. I used a dremel tool with a tiny carbide burr to remove a few thou of rough casting on the neck as the kit moves the top of the springer assembly closer to the neck.
I also had to drill and tap 1/4" holes in the two fork stops and installed 2 stainless bolts as the springer assembly will touch the dash on a full left or right turn. I also drilled the neck and installed a grease fitting.
A bit of a PITA to install but well worth it for the improve look and the ability to put a Frankenstein Trike kit on the scoot.
No negative handle effects whatsoever. I'll try to get some pics up soon.
Next.....the trike (in the spring)
Got my kit and installed it. Forks are binding when, from the front of the bike I turn them to the left. Also binds when I get the risers all tightened up.
Talked with the Vulcan and he told me about the neck filing. Anyone have a pic or a good description of where that filing needs to be? Can I do it with the setup installed or do I need to remove the bearings and stem?
Thanks!
I used a dremel with a tiny carbide bit to gain clearance in the area where the arrow ends. Worked well. This was done with the front end on the bike.
There isn't much interference but just enough to be annoying.
As previously stated, I also had to add 2 small 1/4" screws to the fork stops as with the increased angle, the triple tree top touched the instrument panel.
(As an aside, I drilled and tapped the steering stem for a grease fitting. Works great)
Last edited by JohnRichard; Dec 8, 2015 at 05:25 AM.
Looking for Scooter.
The issues you described before you got it down are exactly the problems I 'm having.
Installed the kit, was cruising around the parking lot and the bike felt like it wanted to steer itself. Hard to handle with wheel pulling to one side and the other. Felt stiff and wobbly.
Could that be the neck rake's flat spot not being centered?? Should I check the trail as well??
Last edited by paperboy1964; Dec 20, 2015 at 09:35 PM.
Reason: found answer
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Late model springer front ends
unless you use a board to protect the threads, a BRASS hammer is best, if you don't have a press.
