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You might as well put one of these in the spot where your old plug was.
Then you can drain the sump without cracking the cases again.
That might make you feel a little better about the money you're gonna spend on getting the cases welded and that you actually improved the thing by being able to drain all the oil out of the sump so it doesn't mix with the fresh new oil.
What a simple idea. Too bad Harley didn't think of it.
This looks interesting, Jester. Everyone always talks about dirty oil mixing with new, but this is the first time I've seen this. Anyone put one of these in...or is it still risky with over tightening?
Originally Posted by Jester750
You might as well put one of these in the spot where your old plug was.
Then you can drain the sump without cracking the cases again.
That might make you feel a little better about the money you're gonna spend on getting the cases welded and that you actually improved the thing by being able to drain all the oil out of the sump so it doesn't mix with the fresh new oil.
What a simple idea. Too bad Harley didn't think of it.
the plug with a plug shown above should be available at you local "real" auto parts store.. napa, or fishers.. or something like that.. the box store autozone and advance may not have it or know what you're even talking about.
Not sure why people do that and remove that plug then crank it in real tight, it's a tapered pipe thread.
Originally Posted by prldrm
This looks interesting, Jester. Everyone always talks about dirty oil mixing with new, but this is the first time I've seen this. Anyone put one of these in...or is it still risky with over tightening?
According to what I've read on this, the danger of cracking the case doesn't only come from over tightening them. From what I've read, you risk cracking the case just by breaking them loose. Any time you have steel tightly threaded into aluminum (tapered threads create extra force), and then expose it to the elements, you have a high potential for galvanic corrosion (an affect associated with joining dissimilar metals, particularly steel and aluminum). If you add salt to the equation (if you live/ride close to the ocean, or ride on roads that have been salted), the potential is MUCH higher. Galvanic corrosion can make the plug very difficult to break loose.
The OP said he cracked the case "by trying to remove the nuts right below the crankcase". That sounds to me like he cracked it breaking one of the plugs loose.
I ment to put this plug in to replace the old one after he has the repairs done.
I'm sure if you torque it in according to the Harley Shop Manual specs, it should work out fine.
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