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I really dont see a difference in shifter arms and the brake arm has an offset but all the companies I talk to says they will NOT fit.
Does anyone have any links to custom brake and shifter arms that will fit the Breakout?
What's up guys. My name is Zach and I'm new here. I figured I would introduce myself and post a couple pics of my B/O. I have quite a few mods planned for the future, but this is what I have now.
2013 HD Breakout:
Freedom Performance Exhaust
SE Big Breather Intake
SE Super Tuner
Daymaker Headlight
LED turn signals front and rear
Lowered with links (forget brand)
Upgraded HD grips and pegs
Hi,
Nice ride, the pipes go real well with it
Thanks
MIRRmu
Yup(edited....at least I think so...). Closed loop is variable and the Ecu is constantly making adjustments on the fly based off real time feedback from o2 sensors reading exhaust gases . The map setting at a specific cell is a starting point and the Ecu can adjust based off sensor feedback from o2 sensors and what not. But it's still narrow band so the bike is really only running in closed loop for a portion of the time (let's just say your typical cruising range). out side the narrow band o2 sensors capabilities the bike gonna rely on fixed map settings (open loop) and not have o2 sensor data to make adjustments. I don't know exactly when that transition happens. Let's say like 60-70% throttle
Open loop is a fixed map and the bikes just gonna feed fuel and air based off map value. Ecu isn't leveraging o2 sensor data
Our bikes run in closed loop for the cruising range then open loop once were outside the narrow bands capabilities.
I could be completely wrong. Still learning this stuff. Tuning seems to be as much science and art as it is fact. More than open to hearing feedback
What I meant by the "No way I'd want every cell the same regardless of afr."? Is that when I think of a fuel map i personally think there should be a progression. Not a hard cutoff at 14.6 to 13.0. I like to start adding more fuel at like 40-50% throttle and above 4000 Rpms or so. I attached an example of my preference.
I agree auto tunes a good starting point. But I wish it wasn't fixed at 14.6/13.0 or any number. Not that 14.6/13.0 is bad, just that it I'm paying $400+ for the device is like the ability to adjust the autotune numbers.
Originally Posted by 24v
I fixed that for you. You do understand the difference between closed and open loop, and why you would want the bike richer in one over the other right? Those numbers seem like a great starting point to me.
What do you mean when you say "No way I'd want every cell the same regardless of afr."?
The reality is that auto tune is a great way for the average person to get their calibration very close to perfect. A good tuner can, and will, take it that extra step to make it flawless.
You have to understand also, that just because your targeted afr is a certain number, does not mean the system will hit that number. So if it went from a targeted afr of 14.0:1 in one cell, and 13.0:1 in the next, the ecu will actually blend the two and hit something in between for most of the areas around that cell. That is where fuel trimming comes in. Short term fuel trimming will see that the actual and targeted afr do not match, and will compensate a little each and every time the ecu visits that cell and does not match. After a certain number of the same adjustment in a specific cell, it will build a memory and make that a long term fuel trim. Generally these can be reset with a battery pull.
Also, the resolution of the map has a lot to do with what you are perceiving as "steps" from one cell to another.
The fuel/air will not necessarily follow in a specific direction through the map like you may think. For example, the cell at 40kpa and 5500 rpm's is 13.8:1, and the cell right below it is 13.0:1. That is one of the larger steps in the map. But it is truly unlikely that you will ever travel right from that cell to the one below it.
Auto Tuning is not meant to get the map perfect like a human tuner would. Use it to get you close, then blend the rest as you see fit.
I can't tell if you're challenging wether I have a clue about what I'm talking about or just having conversation. Ya asked me if I understood something, and now you're telling me what I need to understand, I think I have the basics. Maybe it's just the way you phrased the responses or I'm misinterpreting. Wasn't trying to start a back and forth and with the subject being tuning it could just go on forever. Just answering the question you asked if wether I knew the difference or not. I'm not an expert, just know enough to do my own work. Most of what i know about tuning is from experience with a camaro 1le and a couple ZL1's I modded for bigger HP. The stuff I've done with Harley's is just basic but it all relates and fuel trim isn't a new concept to me. My only opinion on tuning is that the "right" way to do it is subjective.
I believe fuel trim resets every time you flash the Ecu. Atleast it did in every car I've ever checked. Easier than pulling the battery.
One thing I'd welcome clarification on is how fuel trim affects the open loop portion....or does it? I used to reset fuel trim prior to track days and dyno days because I could never figure out if fuel trim affects open loop portion. Conceptually I've convinced myself it doesn't, but have heard to many opinions to really know.
Originally Posted by 24v
You have to understand also, that just because your targeted afr is a certain number, does not mean the system will hit that number. So if it went from a targeted afr of 14.0:1 in one cell, and 13.0:1 in the next, the ecu will actually blend the two and hit something in between for most of the areas around that cell. That is where fuel trimming comes in. Short term fuel trimming will see that the actual and targeted afr do not match, and will compensate a little each and every time the ecu visits that cell and does not match. After a certain number of the same adjustment in a specific cell, it will build a memory and make that a long term fuel trim. Generally these can be reset with a battery pull.
Also, the resolution of the map has a lot to do with what you are perceiving as "steps" from one cell to another.
The fuel/air will not necessarily follow in a specific direction through the map like you may think. For example, the cell at 40kpa and 5500 rpm's is 13.8:1, and the cell right below it is 13.0:1. That is one of the larger steps in the map. But it is truly unlikely that you will ever travel right from that cell to the one below it.
Auto Tuning is not meant to get the map perfect like a human tuner would. Use it to get you close, then blend the rest as you see fit.
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Feb 13, 2015, 01:41 PM
You do understand the difference between closed and open loop, and why you would want the bike richer in one over the other right? Those numbers seem like a great starting point to me. 
