Feb 13, 2015, 01:41 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
Everything Breakout! Find out everything you need to know! Some topics include:
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
The Everything Breakout Thread
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,492
Likes: 103
From: Stuttgart, Germany
Don't believe what you hear somewhere but just read what's on this forum...it has been discussed around here several times.....search engine is a good friend 
The Metzeler ME880 260 is actually 247 mm wide once installed on the stock rear rim. As far a I know the max pressure named by Metzeler is 42 psi. With a lowered or even slammed bike it's not a good idea to run the pressure this high as it further reduces the comfort. It will make the rear more bumpy and reduce traction (especially with you being rather a light rider). Also with respect to the to be expected tire wear in the center of the tire I would strongly recommend to not run a pressure higher than 38 psi (cold). At your weight you might even go down to 36 psi. But I wouldn't go any lower either to maintain the proper stability of the tire structure.
AND....you should really get the matching Metzeler ME880 120/70-21 for the front to improve the front wheel performance and steering. It's always good advise to run tires intended to work together as a set by the manufacturer.
The Metzeler ME880 260 is actually 247 mm wide once installed on the stock rear rim. As far a I know the max pressure named by Metzeler is 42 psi. With a lowered or even slammed bike it's not a good idea to run the pressure this high as it further reduces the comfort. It will make the rear more bumpy and reduce traction (especially with you being rather a light rider
). Also with respect to the to be expected tire wear in the center of the tire I would strongly recommend to not run a pressure higher than 38 psi (cold). At your weight you might even go down to 36 psi. But I wouldn't go any lower either to maintain the proper stability of the tire structure.AND....you should really get the matching Metzeler ME880 120/70-21 for the front to improve the front wheel performance and steering. It's always good advise to run tires intended to work together as a set by the manufacturer.
Last edited by EagleRay; Sep 2, 2017 at 12:45 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 44
Likes: 18
From: Atlantic Beach FL
Thanks for posting. That is my dream build for my BO. Please post more/better pics. Have you dyno'd it yet? Are you satisfied with the power?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,710
Likes: 529
From: Lethbridge, Alberta Canada
Don't believe what you hear somewhere but just read what's on this forum...it has been discussed around here several times.....search engine is a good friend
The Metzeler ME880 260 is actually 247 mm wide once installed on the stock rear rim. As far a I know the max pressure named by Metzeler is 42 psi. With a lowered or even slammed bike it's not a good idea to run the pressure this high as it further reduces the comfort. It will make the rear more bumpy and reduce traction (especially with you being rather a light rider). Also with respect to the to be expected tire wear in the center of the tire I would strongly recommend to not run a pressure higher than 38 psi (cold). At your weight you might even go down to 36 psi. But I wouldn't go any lower either to maintain the proper stability of the tire structure.
AND....you should really get the matching Metzeler ME880 120/70-21 for the front to improve the front wheel performance and steering. It's always good advise to run tires intended to work together as a set by the manufacturer.
The Metzeler ME880 260 is actually 247 mm wide once installed on the stock rear rim. As far a I know the max pressure named by Metzeler is 42 psi. With a lowered or even slammed bike it's not a good idea to run the pressure this high as it further reduces the comfort. It will make the rear more bumpy and reduce traction (especially with you being rather a light rider
). Also with respect to the to be expected tire wear in the center of the tire I would strongly recommend to not run a pressure higher than 38 psi (cold). At your weight you might even go down to 36 psi. But I wouldn't go any lower either to maintain the proper stability of the tire structure.AND....you should really get the matching Metzeler ME880 120/70-21 for the front to improve the front wheel performance and steering. It's always good advise to run tires intended to work together as a set by the manufacturer.
Jim G
I haven't dynoed it yet. Power already feels amazing. I have a thread in the engine mechanical section titled " breakout gets a new heart" there are some pics and info over there. Thanks for looking. Seems I can't get the pics to post the way they are on my phone.
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 111
Likes: 2
From: MA
The new tires are Michelin's instead of Dunlop's. The 130/60-21 isn't exactly the "correct size". The 120/70-21 performs significantly better as it has a more rounded profile. Not to mention it is slightly taller and looks much better in the fender as well. Just because Harley sells the bike with the 130 doesn't mean it's the appropriate tire for the bike. With the said; the Michelin's are certainly better than the Dunlop's. However, there are far better options as well. Dunlop E3, Michelin Commander II, Avon Cobra, Pirelli Night Dragon and the Metzeler 888 or 880 all seem to be the better tires among the boards.
In regards to the forks... Almost every part is different; the internals, the forks, the sliders, most everything. Pretty much the only similarly is the overall look of them almost looks the same, and the fact that they are still 49mm. Whether the width of the tree is exactly the same or not; I do not know. But if it is, you could mount the entire front end in the original breakout trees if you desired.
The only issue is you really aren't gaining much for the expense...
The new forks use a dual bending valve with a slightly stiffer spring, and has a different axle. You can greatly improve the suspension for 15% of what this front end would cost by just simply doing the fork upgrade as outlined in the sticky. And that upgrade will outperform the stock 2018 suspension as well.
In regards to the forks... Almost every part is different; the internals, the forks, the sliders, most everything. Pretty much the only similarly is the overall look of them almost looks the same, and the fact that they are still 49mm. Whether the width of the tree is exactly the same or not; I do not know. But if it is, you could mount the entire front end in the original breakout trees if you desired.
The only issue is you really aren't gaining much for the expense...
The new forks use a dual bending valve with a slightly stiffer spring, and has a different axle. You can greatly improve the suspension for 15% of what this front end would cost by just simply doing the fork upgrade as outlined in the sticky. And that upgrade will outperform the stock 2018 suspension as well.
That is what I was wondering. I was thinking these new style forks would be better than the "upgrade". But you answered me on that. Upgrade it is(I've been meaning to do it but been lazy)
On the tires though. Maybe this stock size being Michelin tires will be just as good? None of us have ever tried it because this stock size was only available with the stock Dunlop's. Maybe it was just the better tires causing the boost in handling? I'm not going to lie though. I can tell the difference(looks wise) in the 120-70 vs 130-60. Only us owners can I'm sure. I'll probably try these new ones to be the guinea pig. I've been through 4 sets of the Dunlop's so one more won't kill me. You never know. Maybe they will be Awesome?
thanks again for the detailed reply !!!!!!
thanks for the info.
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 635
Likes: 47
From: North Jersey, USA
You've bought three sets of the lousy stock tires - THREE SETS ?!?!
.....buddy, you are the very definition of "glutton for punishment".
GET RID OF THAT CRAP!
.......Holy Moses......
....and FIX YOUR FRONT SUSPENSION, lol.....
Amigo, seriously, do that ****. Doing the fork mods and UPGRADING the tires is absolutely transformational. It's a different, BETTER bike afterwards.
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; Sep 13, 2017 at 12:07 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 1,960
From: Great State of Canada
,,,, and if you want a broader consensus, search tires on this thread and there will be pages upon pages of the same sorts of endorsement.
I "personally" wouldn't buy a Metzeler with someone else's money but the Dunlop E3 250 with 36 psi in it will outshine that OEM crap and save you some money to boot,, without the delaminating,, not delaminating,, Brazillian,, BS to worry about. Dunlops are made in the USA.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 111
Likes: 2
From: MA
I know, it sucks. Only get 3K out of the hunk of junks. And i got it 2013 the day they came out. Back then no one was trying the different front tire so i was stuck sort of. But 6000 miles on it the first year and a half. My current set has been on since. Needs changing but not as bad as the first two were.
Trust me my next set was definitely going to be something different(end of this season for sure). But now with these new ones from Harley I was thinking of giving them a try first.
And yes i'm doing the forks if it kills me this winter. My problem is every year it's at my Dyno guys for the whole winter. When i get it back i just want to ride. It's bored and stroked and ported and head work and has a S&S crank and gear drive all that good stuff. So last two years i didn't get to play with it during the winter at all.
but not this year. this year i'm doing all the little stuff.
Still have time to see if anyone else tries these new tires and give bad reviews. the Reason i think i should try is because Scorchers are supposedly good aren't they????