Summer Switch-Up
have you tried it with the housing completely assembled? I think there is just to much slack, or the cable sleeve is not fully sitting in the connecters at the carb or something.
edit the only possible way to do that is if there is just to much slack in that cable, the throttle tube notch for the cable is inline with the hole that the cable comes through. maybe you could make that notch the cable sits in just a little bit deeper to see if it will hold it in place better.
edit the only possible way to do that is if there is just to much slack in that cable, the throttle tube notch for the cable is inline with the hole that the cable comes through. maybe you could make that notch the cable sits in just a little bit deeper to see if it will hold it in place better.
Last edited by tripn88; Sep 9, 2012 at 01:36 PM.
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
From: Liverpool UK
i remember having something similar happen to me, didnt sound as bad as yours though.
what i found helped was to grab the throttle cable and physically move it back and forth. closer to the throttle wheel.
it actually had more play than i thought it would.
but doing this seemed to help
what i found helped was to grab the throttle cable and physically move it back and forth. closer to the throttle wheel.
it actually had more play than i thought it would.
but doing this seemed to help
Thread Starter
|
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,790
Likes: 7
From: Texas
Ok, weekend update. I'd like to throw a shout-out to my awesome Galaxy S3 for the awesome pics and allowing me to keep up to date while I'm out in the garage.
The weather cooled to 89 this weekend, but I probably could have done what I did a lot faster if I didn't have a drinking problem. Anywho......
I removed the clip-on via 6" grinder, sledge and prybar.
The throttle, as said earlier today, gave me hell. I couldn't figure out wtf was wrong until I realized the powdercoat was just too damn thick. Sanded it off.
After hours of trying, I decided not to internally wire the bars. Just too damn hard! I tried everything I could and I hate to admit defeat, but oh well. I'm going to do what I should have done a long time ago make all new toggle switches.
Trying to salvage the throttle sleeve was a PITA. I tried everything to get the grip off. Even soaked it overnight. Finally, the grinder gets carefully used to take it off...
I put the stock headlight mount back up.
I marked the rear fender for drilling. Should be mounted this week sometime if my side mount bolt scenario works for me.
Question about the switches now. Up front you have horn, lights, signals, kill, start.
Since I have no signals, obviously there will not be a switch for them, so I was planning on horn, lights and start. Or do I have to have a kill switch? And besides the obvious places, where online or in public can I get some good 15 amp toggles? And what switch will I need for start, since it's not an on/off switch?
Thanks.
The weather cooled to 89 this weekend, but I probably could have done what I did a lot faster if I didn't have a drinking problem. Anywho......
I removed the clip-on via 6" grinder, sledge and prybar.
The throttle, as said earlier today, gave me hell. I couldn't figure out wtf was wrong until I realized the powdercoat was just too damn thick. Sanded it off.
After hours of trying, I decided not to internally wire the bars. Just too damn hard! I tried everything I could and I hate to admit defeat, but oh well. I'm going to do what I should have done a long time ago make all new toggle switches.
Trying to salvage the throttle sleeve was a PITA. I tried everything to get the grip off. Even soaked it overnight. Finally, the grinder gets carefully used to take it off...
I put the stock headlight mount back up.
I marked the rear fender for drilling. Should be mounted this week sometime if my side mount bolt scenario works for me.
Question about the switches now. Up front you have horn, lights, signals, kill, start.
Since I have no signals, obviously there will not be a switch for them, so I was planning on horn, lights and start. Or do I have to have a kill switch? And besides the obvious places, where online or in public can I get some good 15 amp toggles? And what switch will I need for start, since it's not an on/off switch?
Thanks.
i picked my switches up at oriellys they should have some if they dont they can get them for you. For the start and horn you need a 2 pole push button momentary switch. You dont need a kill switch just wire those two wies together and it will always be on. Youll use the key to turn it off.
glad you got it all figured out.
edit*** part numbers for switches...
16am momentary on switch DORMAN 85980 for horn or start
15amp on-off-on switch DORMAN 85905 for headlight
glad you got it all figured out.
edit*** part numbers for switches...
16am momentary on switch DORMAN 85980 for horn or start
15amp on-off-on switch DORMAN 85905 for headlight
Last edited by tripn88; Sep 9, 2012 at 04:11 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,790
Likes: 7
From: Texas
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,345
Likes: 1
From: coastal NC
Regarding the kill switch issue, are you still using the key and cylinder? W/O a kill switch, your only option to cut the bike off is the key. Our local Car Quest has a good assortment of switches, using one from them for the fog lights in my F250.