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I lagged a wheel chock into my trailer cause I needed it quick. Which is when you need a trailer typically. Lags are not great they will pull out, but not sure they are really supporting much. But I want to remove the chock so I can use trailer. I got the harbor freight Pittsburgh wheel chock.
What would be nice is a place a steel under the trailer, that is screwed up with nuts or threaded. I am surprised they don't make something. Plus it would be nice to get the chock out of the elements. Problem with big washers, and bolting, is you need someone to hold a wrench on opposite side and someone to crawl under. No fun crawling under either. Plus bikes don't break down in broad daylight on a Saturday.
To me perfect solution would be to drill holes from chock, and put a plate below with nuts. screwed to trailer. Screwing up isn't great( many things could be inserted), but with enough screws I think it would be ok Or a plate screwed from top and using carriages bolts . Maybe drill the holes big with the nuts going into the hole,
No, you don't *have* to bolt it down to prevent sliding.
But if your floor is slippery, or your ham fisted at running a bike into a chock, it will likely slide some.
Also, without the chock being attached to the trailer it will do almost nothing with regards to keeping the bike in place on the trailer.
I see this chock used a lot at swap meets and such, with bikes rolled into it, just sitting there on the grass, upright.
N
Also, without the chock being attached to the trailer it will do almost nothing with regards to keeping the bike in place on the trailer.
t.
I thoughts are just to hold it upright while I strap it down. Do you think of of these chalks would do that? When I have done it, it was with second person.
This is pretty cool. I wasn't sure if I would need a plate or giant washers. I was thinking of screwing a plate underneath. I think my chock is set up for carriage bolts. I have to look. But this would require crawling underneath to tighten, not big on that. This is a cool option.
Welding nuts on a plate is another option. But I have never weld. I like this. The chalk is taking a lot of force, the straps are. But want to hold it while I get it set up. I am surprised no one sells a chalk that comes with a bottom plate.
So do start these nuts by hand, and then tighten bolt, sucking them into the wood?
Originally Posted by LoneRiderFLH
Condor pit stop w/trailer plate is THE answer but Im sure youll have a rebuttal, 🤣
It is pretty expensive. I have only trailered my own bike once, the other year. I was wondering about the harbor freight one which is chinese knock off.
This is like buying a generator for the house, you hope never have to use it, but will be glad to have it if you did.
I use four 1/2"-13 t-nuts to mount a winch to my car hauling trailer. The trailer is exposed to the elements, so I remove the winch and bring it indoors when not needed. Once installed, the t-nuts eliminate the need to hold a wrench from the underside. FWIW, I've used the winch to drag a full size pickup with four flat tires up the trailer. As long as the planks are solid (not rotten), the t-nuts are an inexpensive alternative to plates, large washers etc. that to be held in place from underneath.
I use four 1/2"-13 t-nuts to mount a winch to my car hauling trailer. .
What did you use to power it? I was thinking cables to the truck's battery. I have a ATV winch I am not using. I would not be using it for pulling autos. Bikes, SXSs, ATV, sleds would probably be the worse, since no wheels.
But you were able to simple bolt the plate for the winch to the deck of trailer? An issues with the angle? I thought about block of wood in front of it and maybe a pipe across it. Or am I over thinking this?
ISo do start these nuts by hand, and then tighten bolt, sucking them into the wood?.
correct
If deck boards are weathered bad, screw a piece of new board to bottom as a plate
when chock is off, run the bolts back in and leave them there.
Two reasons for that
1.) you won't have to go looking for bolts when you want the chock back on
2.) you keep gunk/crud/dirt/mulch/etc out of the holes
as far as chock cut for carriage bolt (you mean square hole?)
no biggie, you can still use a hex bolt and washer
as far as securing the bike to trailer, I had the HF chock you linked.
just me, I'd install I-bolts thru trailer (thru steel crossmember would be best) and not secure bike to chock I-bolts alone
I-bolts thru deck are unobtrusive enough to leave permeant installed .
as far as chock cut for carriage bolt (you mean square hole?)
no biggie, you can still use a hex bolt and washer
KTF
If you use t-nuts, you would not be able to use carriage, square bolt heads, cause you could not spin them. Carriage bolts are used when you have a square base, so that when you spin the nut on, the head does not turn. In this case you need to turn the head.
If you use t-nuts, you would not be able to use carriage, square bolt heads, cause you could not spin them. Carriage bolts are used when you have a square base, so that when you spin the nut on, the head does not turn. In this case you need to turn the head.
I'm aware Rounders, I only commented due to you mentioned
"I think my chock is set up for carriage bolts"
Square holes or round in the chock doesn't matter, because you can still use a "regular" hex head bolt
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removable wheel chock?
