maladjusted pushrods
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maladjusted pushrods
Cut out pushrods to rebuilt cam case on my TC88- 04 FLHPI: bearings, tensioners, O-rings.
Bought S&S adjustable pushrods.
While installing them I thought I was OK and on TDC of cylinder I was installing. Waited for lifters to bleed down, rotated engine and did same to rear cylinder.
BUT, bike was in OTDC. So, when I cranked bike - it sounded wrong. I cut it off 3-4 seconds later. When I pulled pushrods they were fine. both lifters in rear cyl now, collapsing too easily. Waited a couple days but they were shot. I bought S&S lifters for 2d try. Installed lifters, found TDC in front cylinder (rotated rear wheel forward until I was blue in the fact to make sure I was at TDC. Reinstalled pushrods. Turned rear wheel by hand several times listening for any funny sounds, rattling, anything. Didn't hear anything unusual. But, now, I'm scared to crank the bike.
Does anyone know if there are clues, signs, indications of damage in rocker area without cranking the bike or pulling the rocker covers?
Thanks
Ron
Bought S&S adjustable pushrods.
While installing them I thought I was OK and on TDC of cylinder I was installing. Waited for lifters to bleed down, rotated engine and did same to rear cylinder.
BUT, bike was in OTDC. So, when I cranked bike - it sounded wrong. I cut it off 3-4 seconds later. When I pulled pushrods they were fine. both lifters in rear cyl now, collapsing too easily. Waited a couple days but they were shot. I bought S&S lifters for 2d try. Installed lifters, found TDC in front cylinder (rotated rear wheel forward until I was blue in the fact to make sure I was at TDC. Reinstalled pushrods. Turned rear wheel by hand several times listening for any funny sounds, rattling, anything. Didn't hear anything unusual. But, now, I'm scared to crank the bike.
Does anyone know if there are clues, signs, indications of damage in rocker area without cranking the bike or pulling the rocker covers?
Thanks
Ron
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
for the next guy find TDC before cutting the pushrods.
to find TDC put your finger on the sparkplug hole, when the piston comes UP toward TDC your finger will be blown off.
at this point the piston needs to be at top of bore- BOTH valves closed...like on the compression stroke that is Top Dead Center
with rear wheel lifted and bike in gear turn the wheel with your toe to move the piston
you can use a dial indicator, micrometer OR even a pencil stuck in the plug hole to see if the piston is before/after or at TDC
misadjusting valvetrain ( pushrods are part of this) can cause the valves to hit the piston...bending valve, valve stem, breaking valve guide/seal, marring piston...which can cause pinging and eventual hole burned through piston.
That is more likely area for damage- not the rocker arms
I doubt that there is much in the way of damage- if the valves are misadjusted, then the motor won't develop the power required to kill itself....the too-long pushrods will hold the valves partly open, so no compression, no seal
no power
or if the pushrods are too short, the valves won't open fully or for much duration- no air, no fire, no power
If you have cut the pushrods and do not know what degree of rotation the motor is in, you can look at the cams...lobes will not be in contact with lifters on compression stroke
kinda sure was nice to be able to pull a case plug and look at the flywheel markings...oh the old days...
Mike
to find TDC put your finger on the sparkplug hole, when the piston comes UP toward TDC your finger will be blown off.
at this point the piston needs to be at top of bore- BOTH valves closed...like on the compression stroke that is Top Dead Center
with rear wheel lifted and bike in gear turn the wheel with your toe to move the piston
you can use a dial indicator, micrometer OR even a pencil stuck in the plug hole to see if the piston is before/after or at TDC
misadjusting valvetrain ( pushrods are part of this) can cause the valves to hit the piston...bending valve, valve stem, breaking valve guide/seal, marring piston...which can cause pinging and eventual hole burned through piston.
That is more likely area for damage- not the rocker arms
I doubt that there is much in the way of damage- if the valves are misadjusted, then the motor won't develop the power required to kill itself....the too-long pushrods will hold the valves partly open, so no compression, no seal
no power
or if the pushrods are too short, the valves won't open fully or for much duration- no air, no fire, no power
If you have cut the pushrods and do not know what degree of rotation the motor is in, you can look at the cams...lobes will not be in contact with lifters on compression stroke
kinda sure was nice to be able to pull a case plug and look at the flywheel markings...oh the old days...
Mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Oct 20, 2014 at 07:33 PM.
Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 992
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From: TN
for the next guy find TDC before cutting the pushrods.
to find TDC put your finger on the sparkplug hole, when the piston comes UP toward TDC your finger will be blown off.
at this point the piston needs to be at top of bore- BOTH valves closed...like on the compression stroke that is Top Dead Center
with rear wheel lifted and bike in gear turn the wheel with your toe to move the piston
you can use a dial indicator, micrometer OR even a pencil stuck in the plug hole to see if the piston is before/after or at TDC
misadjusting valvetrain ( pushrods are part of this) can cause the valves to hit the piston...bending valve, valve stem, breaking valve guide/seal, marring piston...which can cause pinging and eventual hole burned through piston.
That is more likely area for damage- not the rocker arms
I doubt that there is much in the way of damage- if the valves are misadjusted, then the motor won't develop the power required to kill itself....the too-long pushrods will hold the valves partly open, so no compression, no seal
no power
or if the pushrods are too short, the valves won't open fully or for much duration- no air, no fire, no power
If you have cut the pushrods and do not know what degree of rotation the motor is in, you can look at the cams...lobes will not be in contact with lifters on compression stroke
Mike
to find TDC put your finger on the sparkplug hole, when the piston comes UP toward TDC your finger will be blown off.
at this point the piston needs to be at top of bore- BOTH valves closed...like on the compression stroke that is Top Dead Center
with rear wheel lifted and bike in gear turn the wheel with your toe to move the piston
you can use a dial indicator, micrometer OR even a pencil stuck in the plug hole to see if the piston is before/after or at TDC
misadjusting valvetrain ( pushrods are part of this) can cause the valves to hit the piston...bending valve, valve stem, breaking valve guide/seal, marring piston...which can cause pinging and eventual hole burned through piston.
That is more likely area for damage- not the rocker arms
I doubt that there is much in the way of damage- if the valves are misadjusted, then the motor won't develop the power required to kill itself....the too-long pushrods will hold the valves partly open, so no compression, no seal
no power
or if the pushrods are too short, the valves won't open fully or for much duration- no air, no fire, no power
If you have cut the pushrods and do not know what degree of rotation the motor is in, you can look at the cams...lobes will not be in contact with lifters on compression stroke
Mike
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 357
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From: Long Beach Ca.
I doubt if you damaged anything unless you put in a high lift cam. If you did the heads have to come off anyway. Follow the instructions, along with advise from this thread and fire it up. If the valves are too tight you'll here it in a rough idle.
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maladjusted pushrods
Thanks for reply. . . good stuff !
for the next guy find TDC before cutting the pushrods.
to find TDC put your finger on the sparkplug hole, when the piston comes UP toward TDC your finger will be blown off.
at this point the piston needs to be at top of bore- BOTH valves closed...like on the compression stroke that is Top Dead Center
with rear wheel lifted and bike in gear turn the wheel with your toe to move the piston
you can use a dial indicator, micrometer OR even a pencil stuck in the plug hole to see if the piston is before/after or at TDC
misadjusting valvetrain ( pushrods are part of this) can cause the valves to hit the piston...bending valve, valve stem, breaking valve guide/seal, marring piston...which can cause pinging and eventual hole burned through piston.
That is more likely area for damage- not the rocker arms
I doubt that there is much in the way of damage- if the valves are misadjusted, then the motor won't develop the power required to kill itself....the too-long pushrods will hold the valves partly open, so no compression, no seal
no power
or if the pushrods are too short, the valves won't open fully or for much duration- no air, no fire, no power
If you have cut the pushrods and do not know what degree of rotation the motor is in, you can look at the cams...lobes will not be in contact with lifters on compression stroke
kinda sure was nice to be able to pull a case plug and look at the flywheel markings...oh the old days...
Mike
to find TDC put your finger on the sparkplug hole, when the piston comes UP toward TDC your finger will be blown off.
at this point the piston needs to be at top of bore- BOTH valves closed...like on the compression stroke that is Top Dead Center
with rear wheel lifted and bike in gear turn the wheel with your toe to move the piston
you can use a dial indicator, micrometer OR even a pencil stuck in the plug hole to see if the piston is before/after or at TDC
misadjusting valvetrain ( pushrods are part of this) can cause the valves to hit the piston...bending valve, valve stem, breaking valve guide/seal, marring piston...which can cause pinging and eventual hole burned through piston.
That is more likely area for damage- not the rocker arms
I doubt that there is much in the way of damage- if the valves are misadjusted, then the motor won't develop the power required to kill itself....the too-long pushrods will hold the valves partly open, so no compression, no seal
no power
or if the pushrods are too short, the valves won't open fully or for much duration- no air, no fire, no power
If you have cut the pushrods and do not know what degree of rotation the motor is in, you can look at the cams...lobes will not be in contact with lifters on compression stroke
kinda sure was nice to be able to pull a case plug and look at the flywheel markings...oh the old days...
Mike
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maladjusted pushrods
No high lift cam. . bike is stock. thanks for reply
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From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
whole lot of good but complicated advice here. this is easy stuff guys.. don't over think it.
since rods are out, do rear cylinder first. no need to be on both sides of the motor going back and forth.
*KEY*
outside pushrods are exhaust
inside pushrods are intake
start with rear cylinder
bike in highest gear
put 2 fingers on top of the lifters in the rear tappet block
roll back tire until exhaust lifter (outer) goes up, then down then intake (inner) goes up then down. when intake gets down at it's lowest point (AFTER EXHAUST), the exhaust lifter should also be at bottom. you are now on the base of the cam and at TDC
install your pushrods
let them bleed down
now do the same for front.
since rods are out, do rear cylinder first. no need to be on both sides of the motor going back and forth.
*KEY*
outside pushrods are exhaust
inside pushrods are intake
start with rear cylinder
bike in highest gear
put 2 fingers on top of the lifters in the rear tappet block
roll back tire until exhaust lifter (outer) goes up, then down then intake (inner) goes up then down. when intake gets down at it's lowest point (AFTER EXHAUST), the exhaust lifter should also be at bottom. you are now on the base of the cam and at TDC
install your pushrods
let them bleed down
now do the same for front.