A little bit different lighting question

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Feb 27, 2015 | 01:53 PM

#11

mkguitar

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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins

You are correct on paper, but we use nominal 12 volt ratings as standard for the battery, wiring and the loads on the circuits.

Mike

Feb 27, 2015 | 02:33 PM

#12

Buelligan666

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Joined: Aug 2014

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From: Eastern Ohio

The fuse shouldn't be run at more than 75% of it's rated load, and must be derated for ambient temperature.

From the Littelfuse Technical library "Introduction to Circuit Protection"

NORMAL OPERATING CURRENT: The current rating of a fuse is
typically derated 25% for operation at 25°C to avoid nuisance blowing.
For example, a fuse with a current rating of 10A is not usually recommended
for operation at more than 7.5A in a 25°C ambient. For
additional details, see RERATING in the previous section and
AMBIENT TEMPERATURE below.

VOLTAGE: The voltage rating of the fuse must be equal to, or
greater than, the available circuit voltage. For exceptions, see
VOLTAGE RATING.

AMBIENT TEMPERATURE: The current carrying capacity tests of
fuses are performed at 25°C and will be affected by changes in ambient
temperature. The higher the ambient temperature, the hotter the fuse will
operate, and the shorter its life will be. Conversely, operating at a lower
temperature will prolong fuse life. A fuse also runs hotter as the normal
operating current approaches or exceeds the rating of the selected fuse.
Practical experience indicates fuses at room temperature should last
indefinitely, if operated at no more than 75% of catalog fuse rating.

Feb 27, 2015 | 03:11 PM

#13

Frank the Real Biker

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Joined: Apr 2014

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From: Kansas

Quote:

Originally Posted by mkguitar

*watts is not a true measure of light output - Lumens is.

** #881= 25w, #896= 37.5W, #886= 50W

Link to a website that has some interesting calculations about lumens. Just scroll down a page or two for the chart.

I left my headlight circuitry alone, but I upgraded my aux lights system by using a set of relays that go directly to the battery...via a fuse, of course. Now I have full voltage to them. Anywhere from 100 to 200 lumens brighter.

YMMV

Feb 27, 2015 | 03:25 PM

#14

mkguitar

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Joined: Sep 2010

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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frank the Real Biker

I upgraded my aux lights system by using a set of relays that go directly to the battery.

depending on model year the results will vary from amazing ( my Evo to which I added relays for each spot, low and high beam) to marginal ( 2009) to none ( the Canbus bikes).

Nice stuff to run through the noggin.

i have a couple of 6 volt bikes, so I am always working on something...!

Mike

Feb 27, 2015 | 09:44 PM

#15

Frank the Real Biker

Road Master

Joined: Apr 2014

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From: Kansas

Quote:

Originally Posted by mkguitar

Yup. Mine is a 2005.

Feb 28, 2015 | 11:26 AM

#16

usraptor

Road Master

Joined: Mar 2014

Posts: 780

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From: Utah

I purchased a pair of Sylvania SilverStar ULTRA Headlight bulbs for my RGU from Walmart and they work great. The thing I like most about them is that they are considerably brighter than OEM so other driver's see me better and know I'm there. They also light up the road better. Good alternative at a reasonable price.

Feb 28, 2015 | 11:57 AM

#17

FinalShot

Road Warrior

Joined: Jul 2013

Posts: 1,624

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From: Fort Worth

I agree with the logic above but that is not the only consideration to have. The actual size (gauge) of the wire and length of run needs to be determined as well and let's not forget about voltage drops.

I don't remember what size the wire is but if it is 16 awg, the system could probably safely handle a 20 amp load with the correct fuse based on wiring gauge calculations. If it is 18 awg, then that is out of the question.