Scorpion Clutch adjustment issues. HELP
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,467
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From: Charleston, SC
Like Mike indicated, if it actually ramps up and down (pulls in and returns) it's probably fine. But yeah, you'd have to actually go into the right side to verify.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
which on it's own is easy, but you have to pull the header.
if you decide you have to go in, crack loose the allen bolts, then roll the bike up on a 2x4.
male sure it is stable on the jiffy and remove the bolts/cover.
this will keep the fluid in the tranny ( but replace the derby cover!)
I know this is frustrating, but it has to be a simple problem or a step over looked (jam nut secured?) and we'll all learn something from this
mike
if you decide you have to go in, crack loose the allen bolts, then roll the bike up on a 2x4.
male sure it is stable on the jiffy and remove the bolts/cover.
this will keep the fluid in the tranny ( but replace the derby cover!)
I know this is frustrating, but it has to be a simple problem or a step over looked (jam nut secured?) and we'll all learn something from this
mike
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,403
Likes: 20
From: Indy
Slack the cable adjustment until the lever just hits the bar, then run in the clutch adjustment bolt until the lever just moves off of the bar, tighten the jam nut, and adjust the cable until you have 1/8" free play at the perch.
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6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Nj
I think I know what the problem is.... Please chime if if you think this theory is BS.
I pulled the drain plug and noticed metal chunks on the magnet. I instantly thought to myself looks like I need to buy a new clutch.. but after taking off the primary cover and taking apart/inspecting the clutch it looked brand new... I found that the metal chunks came from the large gear that is used to start the bike. Here's why I think the bike's clutch is dragging so bad. 200 miles ago I did a primary service and put Gear lube instead of type F ATF and once I made the clutch adjustment it released pressure allowing more gear lube in-between the clutch plates and its just to thick and is causing the plates to stick together. I feel trying to start the bike in gear like this is what F'ed those gears. So now I put everything back together and let the fluid drain over night I can roll the bike now in 1st gear it still takes some effort but i'm sure its going to take some time before all the gear lube works its way out. I will replace the fluid with the recommended ATF tonight and update.
I pulled the drain plug and noticed metal chunks on the magnet. I instantly thought to myself looks like I need to buy a new clutch.. but after taking off the primary cover and taking apart/inspecting the clutch it looked brand new... I found that the metal chunks came from the large gear that is used to start the bike. Here's why I think the bike's clutch is dragging so bad. 200 miles ago I did a primary service and put Gear lube instead of type F ATF and once I made the clutch adjustment it released pressure allowing more gear lube in-between the clutch plates and its just to thick and is causing the plates to stick together. I feel trying to start the bike in gear like this is what F'ed those gears. So now I put everything back together and let the fluid drain over night I can roll the bike now in 1st gear it still takes some effort but i'm sure its going to take some time before all the gear lube works its way out. I will replace the fluid with the recommended ATF tonight and update.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
the clutch disks absorb and hold fluid.
on a normal fluid change about 7 or 8 oz of the 45 oz stays in the primary/clutch.
this can result in a soup of fluids which may or may not mix.
you can get the max amount of lube out by draining on the jiffy stand over night...and I zip tie the clutch lever to searate the disks and plates to increase the amount of fluid which drains
you can even start the bike for a moment to spin the goop out of the clutch basket.
I just use the primary+ it works well and the cost is negligible spread out over 10,000 miles.
mike
on a normal fluid change about 7 or 8 oz of the 45 oz stays in the primary/clutch.
this can result in a soup of fluids which may or may not mix.
you can get the max amount of lube out by draining on the jiffy stand over night...and I zip tie the clutch lever to searate the disks and plates to increase the amount of fluid which drains
you can even start the bike for a moment to spin the goop out of the clutch basket.
I just use the primary+ it works well and the cost is negligible spread out over 10,000 miles.
mike
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6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Nj
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Road Master
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,220
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From: chatham il
I run a scorpion also and 20w50 mobile 1 works just fine. The only fluid that Barnett said not to use was the formula+ from Harley becouse they say it's extremely sticky. Don't feel obligated to run atf. The only other thing I could mention is to check and see how many clutch plates you have. Originally the scorpion was sold with a 10 steel 10 fiber clutch pack. The steels were to thin and tended to warp under heat. Well once they warped they act as a spring and don't allow the clutch plates to truly separate which causes dragging issues. Since Barnett has made clutch pack for the scorpion that are 9 steel 9fiber plates. Going to a 9and 9 setup allowed them to make the steel plates thicker which cured the warping and clutch drag problem. Ask me how I know...... Since installing the 9and 9 setup my clutch has been sweet. Did you use the diaphragm spring and spring plate? Also known as the anti chatter spring.
Last edited by ridedaddy; Oct 27, 2015 at 12:05 AM.
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Nj
I run a scorpion also and 20w50 mobile 1 works just fine. The only fluid that Barnett said not to use was the formula+ from Harley becouse they say it's extremely sticky. Don't feel obligated to run atf. The only other thing I could mention is to check and see how many clutch plates you have. Originally the scorpion was sold with a 10 steel 10 fiber clutch pack. The steels were to thin and tended to warp under heat. Well once they warped they act as a spring and don't allow the clutch plates to truly separate which causes dragging issues. Since Barnett has made clutch pack for the scorpion that are 9 steel 9fiber plates. Going to a 9and 9 setup allowed them to make the steel plates thicker which cured the warping and clutch drag problem. Ask me how I know...... Since installing the 9and 9 setup my clutch has been sweet. Did you use the diaphragm spring and spring plate? Also known as the anti chatter spring.
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