Clutch Cable Adjustment Problem

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Nov 4, 2017 | 11:32 AM

#21

Veekness

Elite HDF Member

Joined: Nov 2013

Posts: 4,377

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From: Santa Clarita

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spider0408

I'll give this try. I didn't realize that the ramp might not be in the full clutch disengagement position. I just assumed it would be. The service manual doesn't say anything about it.

Well, he just described 'the full clutch adjustment'...which you said you did in your initial post...are you saying now that you DIDN'T do this? Because if you didn't, then we've possibly wasted a lotta time in talking all around your problem!!!

Nov 4, 2017 | 01:16 PM

#22

btsom

Grand HDF Member

Joined: Jan 2012

Posts: 4,459

Likes: 2,900

From: Oklahoma

One more thing to watch for, the threads on clutch hub adjuster screw can get burred. If you unscrew the adjuster screw as described in the manual and then screw it back in feeling for the contact point, these burred threads can be mistaken for the binding at the contact point. If that mistake is made, the adjuster screw can be more than 1 turn out from the real contact point and too much cable adjustment (Unscrewing the adjuster too far) can be needed to make up the extra slack in the hub adjustment. To avoid that error, I screw in the adjuster with a wrench handle until I see the disengagement plate (the part the adjuster goes through) seat against the clutch opening in which it is located. If you believe you have found the contact point and that plate is free to move, you haven't really fount the contact point. After the adjuster freely screws in and out, set your 1/2 to 1 turn out and you should be good with the hub adjustment.

Nov 4, 2017 | 01:32 PM

#23

TSheff

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: Feb 2013

Posts: 11,327

Likes: 3,686

From: SE Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by btsom

One more thing to watch for, the threads on clutch hub adjuster screw can get burred.

Yep, it's real. I hate to put that out there, but I've experienced it on a friends bike. Took the second adjustment to spot it.

Nov 4, 2017 | 05:08 PM

#24

Spider0408

Thread Starter

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Joined: Jan 2013

Posts: 501

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From: Kentucky

FYI to responders. I performed the full clutch adjustment exactly as described in the Service Manual. I actually did it twice. The cable problem remained. Bingee pointed out steps that are not in the manual's clutch adjustment instructions. Namely those that fix the lower ramp to the full clutch disengagement position. The manual does not mention this. Others have added some helpful suggestions as well. I greatly appreciate any and all the help I've received. Thank You
I have no intention of wasting anybody's time.

Nov 4, 2017 | 06:02 PM

#25

Musician

Road Captain

Joined: Nov 2014

Posts: 680

Likes: 224

From: Buhl, Idaho

Similar problem a couple years back. Solved by replacing the cable. Now works like new.

Nov 5, 2017 | 12:33 AM

#26

1Canuck

Ultimate HDF Member

Joined: Dec 2010

Posts: 7,776

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From: wet coast BC

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spider0408

If it is not cable stretch then try one more time. I suspect that the position of the rod has not fully opened/released the ball & ramp and you are feeling a false bottom point where they say turn to a light touch. Instructions say turn clockwise until lightly seated. I am saying go beyond that point gently until you feel resistance where you would have to force it.
You need to pump clutch handle 2-3 times each 1/4 turn and not be able to turn the adjuster any further, do so until you reach that point
Then open 1/2 to 1 as you prefer. adjuster cable adjuster at this point it should be good.
Yes I experienced this.

Nov 5, 2017 | 12:12 PM

#27

Spider0408

Thread Starter

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Joined: Jan 2013

Posts: 501

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From: Kentucky

Problem solved. Did what Binge said and it worked. I think moving the clutch handle open all the way several times to move the ramp counter clockwise fully down did the trick. That eliminated any spaces between the screw the rod and the ramp.