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Who's got the info on what I need to do a plus 2" front end aside from the fork tubes and cartridges? Is it that simple? New fork seals, oil, tubes and cartridges?
How does everyone listen to audio? Helmet/ audio setup? Currently have the Simpson Speed Bandit with Cardo Freecom 4+ It's not bad but wanting to look at better options. Anyone using just headphones connected to the Boom GTS
I'm running 14" rears with Rinehart duals. I just had to increase the dent that's in the back of the pipe so the axle would clear.
@jyd83 This is the kind of valuable information I am seeking. Guess this all depends on what pipe you run, and if you are willing to whack it with a hammer. For now suspension stays where it is as there are lots of other mods to do first. What did you use as a block to increase that dent? My other question is what happens if you flip the axle so the nut is on the left? I guess it's still the same length so that doesn't really matter. I run 2 into one and put the nut on the left for easy rear wheel removal.
I actually had my Darkhorse sprocket pulled today. It was intolerably loud, and was the cause of my neutral knock. The crank, on the other hand, is a work of art! My bike never really vibrated that bad, but is now, noticeably smoother. The Zippers cam plate and Feuling oil pump, are putting my oil pressure at 20psi, at idle!!! And 45psi while cruising. The 5.3 injectors seem to have made it more responsive. My stock piston oilers failed the pressure test. So they were replaced as well. The best part of all of this, piece of mind!
@jyd83 This is the kind of valuable information I am seeking. Guess this all depends on what pipe you run, and if you are willing to whack it with a hammer. For now suspension stays where it is as there are lots of other mods to do first. What did you use as a block to increase that dent? My other question is what happens if you flip the axle so the nut is on the left? I guess it's still the same length so that doesn't really matter. I run 2 into one and put the nut on the left for easy rear wheel removal.
I was talking to a builder who recommended doing exactly this (flipping the rear axle so that the nut is on the clutch side) therefore eliminating any possible exhaust contact on the brake side.
I was talking to a builder who recommended doing exactly this (flipping the rear axle so that the nut is on the clutch side) therefore eliminating any possible exhaust contact on the brake side.
It still has something that can hit the pipe on either side. This is done for simplicity of removing the rear wheel in my opinion. With a 2 into 1 you don't need to remove the bottom shock bolts to get the rear axle out with the axle put in the other way. With duals, you need to take off bottom shocks bolts and jack the bike up a bit with a scissor jack (assuming you have a table lift) and removing the bottom shocks bolts allows the axle to slide out without taking off the rear muffler. So, both side of teh axle have protruding objects taht can contact the exhaust Go look at yours, you'll see.
Either way, I'll figure all this out if and when I got to a 14" shock which is not right now.
Hello Puglia10,
I am height challenged and was checking out your cool Road Glide.
Your solution for foot controls are very cool.
I had a machine shop shorten a shifter lever.
The heel shifter keeps my foot from sliding off and makes finding neutral very easy.
Thank you for your posts,
Lboy06.
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