Compensator or Battery Problem?
Clang, Clang went the Trolley, or how to tell when your comp spring pack has gone weak. Worse problem, Harley does not sell just the spring packs, since it's what went weak to start with, but makes you buy the entire comp instead.
As for battery-starter, 4 year is really pushing a AGM battery, so start off with load testing it, since will bank that it's a dying.
As for starter, with the battery out, pull the start as well. The positive terminal on the starter solenoid is a snap to pull and clean those terminal and wires since it on the top, but the bottom terminal from the solenoid to starter motor cable is a no go until it's removed instead (read corrosion will be twice as bad that is was on the top terminal. Also with starter off, good to pull it apart to clean/re-grease it, including checking the solenoid ring and contact pads to see if jut a little sanding it need to clean them up, or if they should be replaced as well.
https://youtu.be/1eKeEgpJtZI
Also, take the time to clean up the grounding cable and nut for the left hand starter bolt where the battery ground cable terminate to. Most of the time, the inside of the cable where it mates to the engine case is black, and it just as small portion of id of the split washer to inner nut head that is carrying the ground load. Hence clean the cable end, clean the split ring washer, and on the bolt, chuck it up in a drill to clean the flat of the bolt, and square the head to shaft so the spring ring washer make full contact to the base of the head as well (cleaning up the starter where the cable will be mating to it, is a given as well).
https://youtu.be/cWTHZId_IkA
As for battery-starter, 4 year is really pushing a AGM battery, so start off with load testing it, since will bank that it's a dying.
As for starter, with the battery out, pull the start as well. The positive terminal on the starter solenoid is a snap to pull and clean those terminal and wires since it on the top, but the bottom terminal from the solenoid to starter motor cable is a no go until it's removed instead (read corrosion will be twice as bad that is was on the top terminal. Also with starter off, good to pull it apart to clean/re-grease it, including checking the solenoid ring and contact pads to see if jut a little sanding it need to clean them up, or if they should be replaced as well.
https://youtu.be/1eKeEgpJtZI
Also, take the time to clean up the grounding cable and nut for the left hand starter bolt where the battery ground cable terminate to. Most of the time, the inside of the cable where it mates to the engine case is black, and it just as small portion of id of the split washer to inner nut head that is carrying the ground load. Hence clean the cable end, clean the split ring washer, and on the bolt, chuck it up in a drill to clean the flat of the bolt, and square the head to shaft so the spring ring washer make full contact to the base of the head as well (cleaning up the starter where the cable will be mating to it, is a given as well).
https://youtu.be/cWTHZId_IkA
Last edited by Bafflingbs; Jun 30, 2020 at 08:59 PM.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,598
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From: South Jersey
Be sure to get back and keep all informed. Remember, on these long stroke two cylinders, it's sorta normal to get an occasional bang especially in a short rest from a really hot motor like pulling off interstate for a fill up.
If the motor stops with a valve open and that last unburnt fuel charge in the intake cooks off into vapor, when you hit starter, if it fires like a diesel, no telling which way but it's may kick but it's like starting a old aircraft motor with a shot charge.
If it does it all the time with a good battery, I would think it's a leaky injector or if you have a non stock tuner modifications.
If the motor stops with a valve open and that last unburnt fuel charge in the intake cooks off into vapor, when you hit starter, if it fires like a diesel, no telling which way but it's may kick but it's like starting a old aircraft motor with a shot charge.
If it does it all the time with a good battery, I would think it's a leaky injector or if you have a non stock tuner modifications.
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 443
Likes: 52
From: Beaumont Tx
Not quite sure I get your point. I had my stock compensator replaced under warranty, once, for making the same churning marbles noise it’s making now. I’m pretty sure the increased power of my freshly built 110” is mostly to blame. My noise is prominent during idle, inside my primary, directly below the engine. Rather than keep replacing compensators, I’m going with the Dark Horse iteration. Looks extremely promising. I replaced my battery 2 years ago, with a 600cca X-Rated battery. I keep it charged (when not in use) by using a smart charger. Charging system holds steady at over 14 volts.
what battery did you find with those specs?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,282
Likes: 6,321
From: Honah Lee
Bafflingbs, lets talk and learn something from somethings you have said.
All just my opinion and thoughts.
One, that 600 cca is a heck of a lot for a battery the size of our bike batteries.
Another is if it is on a small usually below 1 amp maintenance charger, always unplug it, hit the key on with your headlights on about 20 seconds and key off and then check battery volts. Most usually read 12.6 - 12.8
That 14 you reported seems a bit high for a maintenance charger on a fully charged battery in good shape.
Also, we are not really concerned here with idle compensator noise. When the fingers fret and get a little rough and even some new cast steel fingers since the are not machined, make a little noise, it's pretty normal. Aggravating, yes but it hurts nothing.
All just my opinion and thoughts.
One, that 600 cca is a heck of a lot for a battery the size of our bike batteries.
Another is if it is on a small usually below 1 amp maintenance charger, always unplug it, hit the key on with your headlights on about 20 seconds and key off and then check battery volts. Most usually read 12.6 - 12.8
That 14 you reported seems a bit high for a maintenance charger on a fully charged battery in good shape.
Also, we are not really concerned here with idle compensator noise. When the fingers fret and get a little rough and even some new cast steel fingers since the are not machined, make a little noise, it's pretty normal. Aggravating, yes but it hurts nothing.
MX30L - MOTORCYCLE BATTERY - 600+ CCA
I miss spoke, I meant while running. You are correct, I should have elaborate better. I’m using the NOCO Genius 3500 charger.
NOCO Genius G3500 6V/12V 3.5 Amp Battery Charger and Maintainer It cycles at a higher charge rate, and is good for AGM or lithium batteries.
As for the sound, it’s almost like a hammer was knocking against the inside of my primary. When I noticed it the first time, Harley said the springs were weak, so the replaced it with the Screaming Eagle comp. Now that I’ve done a 110” making 117hp and 130lbs. of tq. The sound is back. It’s not normal. I have a video of it running before the 110, and it was smooth as silk.
Bafflingbs, lets talk and learn something from somethings you have said.
All just my opinion and thoughts.
One, that 600 cca is a heck of a lot for a battery the size of our bike batteries.
Another is if it is on a small usually below 1 amp maintenance charger, always unplug it, hit the key on with your headlights on about 20 seconds and key off and then check battery volts. Most usually read 12.6 - 12.8
That 14 you reported seems a bit high for a maintenance charger on a fully charged battery in good shape.
Also, we are not really concerned here with idle compensator noise. When the fingers fret and get a little rough and even some new cast steel fingers since the are not machined, make a little noise, it's pretty normal. Aggravating, yes but it hurts nothing.
All just my opinion and thoughts.
One, that 600 cca is a heck of a lot for a battery the size of our bike batteries.
Another is if it is on a small usually below 1 amp maintenance charger, always unplug it, hit the key on with your headlights on about 20 seconds and key off and then check battery volts. Most usually read 12.6 - 12.8
That 14 you reported seems a bit high for a maintenance charger on a fully charged battery in good shape.
Also, we are not really concerned here with idle compensator noise. When the fingers fret and get a little rough and even some new cast steel fingers since the are not machined, make a little noise, it's pretty normal. Aggravating, yes but it hurts nothing.
NOCO Genius G3500 6V/12V 3.5 Amp Battery Charger and Maintainer It cycles at a higher charge rate, and is good for AGM or lithium batteries.
As for the sound, it’s almost like a hammer was knocking against the inside of my primary. When I noticed it the first time, Harley said the springs were weak, so the replaced it with the Screaming Eagle comp. Now that I’ve done a 110” making 117hp and 130lbs. of tq. The sound is back. It’s not normal. I have a video of it running before the 110, and it was smooth as silk.
Last edited by Bafflingbs; Jul 2, 2020 at 10:16 PM.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 1,434
Likes: 800
From: Colorado
Little suspect of the battery have 600CC amps, since its the same size as every other battery in that size, which put out around 400 CC amps isntead.
So on that note, would throw it on the tender out of the bike to get it fully charged up, then test it for it's real CC Cranking power where the battery is holding 12 volts.
Also CC amps is really suggestive as well. Hence if count what the amperage would be on a battery below the point of the module glitching out for the voltage to them being too low at start (say 7.2 volts), you can label the battery at higher CC amps.
So on a Harley, it needs to hold at least 12 volts during start up, so the modules are not glitching at start up, and that is the point that you want to see what CC amperage the battery is really putting out. Really, the quick way to test a battery while still on the bike, put a meter on your tender plug so you can watch the battery voltage, then start the bike. If the battery is still holding over 12 volt when cracking the motor over, battery is still good.
As for comp, may be time to pull the primary cover again to check the comp. The more HP you put into the comp to soften the stroke blows to the trans, the farther the outer out piece is going to ride up the slopes of the inner piece each pulse to compress the spring pack farther, to wear out the comp/ weaken cone washer spring faster as well.
With luck, may just be the spring pack that went weak and the spring pack be replaced (can get a new spring pack for $75}, and it not the entire comp worn out that has to be replaced (if not under warranty still) .
Trashed/work out comp,
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/prima...ker-or-hd.html
So on that note, would throw it on the tender out of the bike to get it fully charged up, then test it for it's real CC Cranking power where the battery is holding 12 volts.
Also CC amps is really suggestive as well. Hence if count what the amperage would be on a battery below the point of the module glitching out for the voltage to them being too low at start (say 7.2 volts), you can label the battery at higher CC amps.
So on a Harley, it needs to hold at least 12 volts during start up, so the modules are not glitching at start up, and that is the point that you want to see what CC amperage the battery is really putting out. Really, the quick way to test a battery while still on the bike, put a meter on your tender plug so you can watch the battery voltage, then start the bike. If the battery is still holding over 12 volt when cracking the motor over, battery is still good.
As for comp, may be time to pull the primary cover again to check the comp. The more HP you put into the comp to soften the stroke blows to the trans, the farther the outer out piece is going to ride up the slopes of the inner piece each pulse to compress the spring pack farther, to wear out the comp/ weaken cone washer spring faster as well.
With luck, may just be the spring pack that went weak and the spring pack be replaced (can get a new spring pack for $75}, and it not the entire comp worn out that has to be replaced (if not under warranty still) .
Trashed/work out comp,
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/prima...ker-or-hd.html
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 372
Likes: 82
From: FL East Coast /Western NC
another vote for the battery .... first anyway.... had dropped to 7 volts at crank up but still going... i changed it as it was 4 years old...mine did the clunk thing at start up a few times when heated up... has not since new battery few months back.... we'll see
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,598
Likes: 52
From: South Jersey
I just installed the new Deka ETX30L 400CC, paid $105 delivered. I took the bike out today, got it hot, stopped for gas, started it back up and so far (fingers crossed) NO BANG!
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