It's more complicated than the title.

From the top center or left locking position, I one click the ignition switch to the right to start the bike as one does. I occasionally get NOTHING, as in nothing comes on, dead bike. If I then go 2 clicks to the right to auxiliary, the bike comes to life. I then put it back to ignition, start the bike and I'm on my way. This doesn't happen regularly, this is very sporadic.

I have:

• checked and reset the ignition switch with an aliment tool
• checked the ignition pin plug, it seems secure
• checked main fuse and fuses
• checked battery connections
• battery is good - checked during starting crank, then again after sitting a few days w no charger on it, and the voltage looks good when riding

Before I order a new ignition, what else can I check? Auto electric alludes me a little bit, but I do have and use a multimeter for various things.

Other things to note. I did have the fork seals replaced, so I know that at least the dash was off and the switch removed when they were in there. The transmission case was replaced early on when I first bought the bike (under warranty, the casting was flawed). I mention this because that was major disassemble surgery.

 

Back when I had my 08 I used to have intermittent issues such as you. The ignition contacts could get hot and mess up. They ended up replacing the ignition. Not sure how much has changed at the rear of the ignition but on the 08 I could easily see the rear where the contacts go in to mess with it.

 

Sounds like a bad ignition switch to me. About $100 new at your dealer. Easy to swap out.

 

Thanks gentlemen. I pulled the connecting pins today and gave them a good shot of electrical cleaner. See if that helps. Probably a new ignition regardless.

For what it's worth, this bike has less than 10k miles:

Transmission case replacement at 1k (bad casting, it was leaking)
Right fork seal replacement at 6k (no hard bumps or off-road riding, never strapped down)
fluid transfer issue (10oz every 5k miles, and yes, it has the vent)
Ignition switch

****'s starting to get old.

 

$20 to get the CVO update, and you can throw the clunky ignition switch brick in the garbage where it belongs.
Edit - I think it was $40, not 20.

 

Sometimes the contacts in the ignition switch get stuck and you start getting poor connectivity, like you're describing.

Often times you can pull the electrical rotary switch off, and open it up. You'd often see exactly what the problem was, gunk, corrosion, a stuck contact this isn't springing up. You would clean everything up, regrease it, and you're good to go.
Your switch assembly looks like a bugger to get apart. I've never worked on one, so perhaps it's easier than it looks.
Just an option to consider.

 

I had much the same symptoms on my softail slim(it also had pretty low miles t the time(like 12,000). It only did the failure to power the bike on thing a couple of times, the 2nd time, I jiggled the ignition switch around and I could plainly see the led display/lights blinking on and off. Replaced the switch and no issues since(2 years ago).

 

Noted. Thanks.

 

I'll look into it. Thanks.