Starter Switch Not Working Sometimes
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,769
Likes: 2,230
From: Florida
If BCM is what I think it is, my bike didn't come with it but I did have it installed right after buying it. Does that mean I couldn't use a solenoid start button?
https://www.harley-davidson.com/us/e...em/p/41000087G
https://www.harley-davidson.com/us/e...em/p/41000087G
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,471
Likes: 2,998
From: Charleston, SC
The BCM outputs a voltage (usually 12v) to the starter solenoid to launch the starter.
Locate that wire (its the single wire with white connector) on the starter, and put a volt meter on it and make sure it's 12 volts when you press the start switch.
Check it with the wire disconnected. You should get 12V.
Check it with the wire/connector Connected, might get 12v or slightly lower. If you get zero, the solenoid is shorting it out when it's connected.
If you get 12 volts then your start switch and BCM are fine.
If you have 12 volts and the starter does nothing, you need a starter/solenoid.
If you don't have 12 volts or something dramatically less like 7 volts, check for Codes. http://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-29661-h...ble-codes.html
If you get codes, one of them will probably be "BCM output voltage is either high (open) or low (shorted)" which means you probably have a bad BCM OR the wire from it leading to the starter is somehow bad.
If you get no codes then the start switch (right control module) is most likely bad.
If you need a new BCM, don't buy just the BCM. It's usually cheaper if you buy a whole new security kit.
PN: 41000341G is the BCM by itself which is around $386.99.
The Security Kit is PN: 41000087G and is $382.95. It will come with the BCM, two Fobs, and the Antenna module and is cheaper than just buying the BCM by itself.
Anyway, good luck. I'm in the same boat right now. I needed a BCM... good times.
Locate that wire (its the single wire with white connector) on the starter, and put a volt meter on it and make sure it's 12 volts when you press the start switch.
Check it with the wire disconnected. You should get 12V.
Check it with the wire/connector Connected, might get 12v or slightly lower. If you get zero, the solenoid is shorting it out when it's connected.
If you get 12 volts then your start switch and BCM are fine.
If you have 12 volts and the starter does nothing, you need a starter/solenoid.
If you don't have 12 volts or something dramatically less like 7 volts, check for Codes. http://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-29661-h...ble-codes.html
If you get codes, one of them will probably be "BCM output voltage is either high (open) or low (shorted)" which means you probably have a bad BCM OR the wire from it leading to the starter is somehow bad.
If you get no codes then the start switch (right control module) is most likely bad.
If you need a new BCM, don't buy just the BCM. It's usually cheaper if you buy a whole new security kit.
PN: 41000341G is the BCM by itself which is around $386.99.
The Security Kit is PN: 41000087G and is $382.95. It will come with the BCM, two Fobs, and the Antenna module and is cheaper than just buying the BCM by itself.
Anyway, good luck. I'm in the same boat right now. I needed a BCM... good times.
Last edited by lp; May 2, 2024 at 01:07 PM.
I'm curious what happens when the bike is parked in gear and some grubby kid fingers push the starter solenoid button. I'm guessing the kickstand locking tab would hold up and the kickstand would shuffle along if the parking surface was smooth enough. Been looking at getting one of these because I've seen it get some older bikes out of a sticky spot before. I rarely park in gear anyway, so it should just turn the engine over until they let go.
Last edited by Ultra103; May 5, 2024 at 10:22 AM.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,769
Likes: 2,230
From: Florida
I'm curious what happens when the bike is parked in gear and some grubby kid fingers push the starter solenoid button. I'm guessing the kickstand locking tab would hold up and the kickstand would shuffle along if the parking surface was smooth enough. Been looking at getting one of these because I've seen it get some older bikes out of a sticky spot before. I rarely park in gear anyway, so it should just turn the engine over until they let go.
Since moving to Florida 23 years ago, I've never parked my bike in gear.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,993
Likes: 20
From: Southeast GA
My bike did the same thing for months. Most of the time would start as it should but every now and then would take 2 or 3 tries for it to start.
Turns out it was the clutch switch. It allows it to start when the clutch is pulled in. It finally stopped starting in gear altogether. I didnt want to spend the money getting the switch replaced so now I start it in neutral. Problem solved.
Turns out it was the clutch switch. It allows it to start when the clutch is pulled in. It finally stopped starting in gear altogether. I didnt want to spend the money getting the switch replaced so now I start it in neutral. Problem solved.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,130
Likes: 12,691
From: South Carolina
The BCM outputs a voltage (usually 12v) to the starter solenoid to launch the starter.
Locate that wire (its the single wire with white connector) on the starter, and put a volt meter on it and make sure it's 12 volts when you press the start switch.
Check it with the wire disconnected. You should get 12V.
Check it with the wire/connector Connected, might get 12v or slightly lower. If you get zero, the solenoid is shorting it out when it's connected.
Locate that wire (its the single wire with white connector) on the starter, and put a volt meter on it and make sure it's 12 volts when you press the start switch.
Check it with the wire disconnected. You should get 12V.
Check it with the wire/connector Connected, might get 12v or slightly lower. If you get zero, the solenoid is shorting it out when it's connected.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,471
Likes: 2,998
From: Charleston, SC
On a related note, if you read less than 12 volts (like 7 volts) at the connector with it Disconnected from the starter it could be due to high resistance OR the BCM itself is going bad - which was my case. New BCM fixed it up.
Last edited by lp; May 8, 2024 at 03:11 PM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,130
Likes: 12,691
From: South Carolina
If the wire that powers the solenoid has 12 volts when disconnected from the solenoid, it is good, so far...
If that wire has low voltage when connected to the solenoid, it means there is excess resistance upstream of the solenoid, if the solenoid was shorted to ground, it would still read 12 volts, but the amperage would be high enough to blow the fuse.
The issue is not a short.
Make sure all electrical connections are clean and secure.
If that wire has low voltage when connected to the solenoid, it means there is excess resistance upstream of the solenoid, if the solenoid was shorted to ground, it would still read 12 volts, but the amperage would be high enough to blow the fuse.
The issue is not a short.
Make sure all electrical connections are clean and secure.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; May 8, 2024 at 04:33 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,471
Likes: 2,998
From: Charleston, SC
If the wire that powers the solenoid has 12 volts when disconnected from the solenoid, it is good, so far...
If that wire has low voltage when connected to the solenoid, it means there is excess resistance upstream of the solenoid, if the solenoid was shorted to ground, it would still read 12 volts, but the amperage would be high enough to blow the fuse.
The issue is not a short.
Make sure all electrical connections are clean and secure.
If that wire has low voltage when connected to the solenoid, it means there is excess resistance upstream of the solenoid, if the solenoid was shorted to ground, it would still read 12 volts, but the amperage would be high enough to blow the fuse.
The issue is not a short.
Make sure all electrical connections are clean and secure.
In pure circuits Yes, everything you've said is all true; however, I'm talking about the output of the BCM - a mini computer - that will restrict/adjust the volts/amps for a given output per the conditions.
When it senses the short, it turns off the output and throws a B2123 which is starter solenoid circuit shorted in the electrical reference. That's what I've seen anyway. Zero volts. No fuse to blow between the points either.
Also, a fried BCM will/can output a reduced voltage given it's damaged. Mine output 7.14 which was not enough to pull the solenoid. A fresh BCM fixed it. High resistance wasn't the issue.
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