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My bike has the Stage 1
SE Slipons
Arlean Ness Breather
Power Commander
before dyno 65.94 Power
78.45 Torque
After dyno 71.63 Power
81.30 Torque
Took the bike to Milwaukee pullin a trailer average mileage was around 40 mpg, the tank I used riding around Milwaukee (R U sitting down) I got 60 mpg, checked it three times to make sure. Out of 12 tanks of gas the best I got was 60 mpg (not pullin the trailer) and the worst was 20 mpg (pullin the trailer).. Had mine done at the Stealer in Topeka, Knasas,,, waiting to see what I get around town. I could see the difference between putting on the PC three years ago and having it Dynoed this year.. Have a qualified person put on the Power Commander when u get it Dynoed, they can tune it better than doing it by yourself on your home laptop...
I have an 08 FLHTC stage 1 air filter and ecm,power commander 111 usb, vance and hines big radius pipes. Just had bike dynotuned, can send map to anyone interested
I've attached the best chart for my road king 103" with screamin eagle performance heads, se251 cams, bassani roadrage 2 into 1 exhaust...in a nutshell, the important thing to look at on a bagger dyno chart is the torque curve...see how this one is a gentle curve?...if a motor is making 75 to 90% of it's peak torque by 2500 rpm it's a good one
Without a dyno sheet is kinda hard giving an opinion but I'll give it a shot for what it may or may not be worth. Looking at the before and after numbers, it appears the tuner used pretty much a "canned" map going for the highest HP numbers he could get without doing a lot of fine tuning (timing/AFR). A lot of tuners think the higher the HP numbers are, the happier the customer will be. I have 203's in my Y2K RK, carbed and if you look back a few pages (87) you'll see what I've done. I'm guessing but I think you're getting on the cams a little late and off a little early (timing). Thats why your HP numbers look good but your torque numbers are on the low side. If you look at my dyno numbers, my torque curve is optimal at about 4000-4200 rpm which is where yours should be if your looking for torque with 203's.
Bottom line, a Power Commander or PC III would help you adjust your timing and you can find the "sweet spot" easier and the tuner can then make a map specific to your combination.
It takes time but a good tuner can do it, hell I made 20 passes over a week to get mine where i wanted it.
Your bike should easily run low 80's HP and low 90's ft/lbs torque, with your setup and header.
Should would help to see the dyno print out though.
Just an FYI, but mine currently hits close to 80HP and 93ft/lbs torque.
Granted, I had the heads cleaned up some but nothing special along with being carbed, running stock headpipe and slip-ons.
If I put on the ProPipe I had back on, easy 85+hp at close to 100ft/lbs torque.
nothing wrong with the build or tune...the fatcat quiet baffle might improve torque a little....like I said before, your compression is low for that cam...going to 95" would improve it greatly and can be done for $150 bore job and $150 pistons
Just got my bike back with a stage one:
Before: 66.23hp 80.92 torque
After: 75.11hp 94.06 torque
The shop said if I was at sea level(presently at 5000ft) these numbers could be about 10% higher. Maybe next summer I will find out how my bike preformes at sea level on one of my trips.
Dan
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